Need Help Indicator modification on 2021

[RichT93]

Hi!

So I’ve fitted some Denali Light T3 pods to my 2021 NC750x and (after a lot of digging) know I’ve wired it up right.

However when my indicators come on to cancel the DRL light there seems to be an issue when I select the indicator.

The bikes indicators are very dim and the light pod doesn’t want to flash amber.

Any advice would be great!

 

[670cc]

Without seeing a schematic of how the new lights are actually wired in, it looks as if the additional load is too great for the stock signal wire size. The voltage drop in the wire, with the new lights active, causes a enough voltage drop that the LED signals cannot operate correctly. That may not be accurate, but with the limited information given, that is my first impression.

Do I see that there is no relay involved, whereby the Denali lights would receive their own power from a separate source? What is the wattage or current draw of the Denali lights?

Can you post a link to the wiring instructions used, draw a schematic of what you did, or at least describe the wire connections in detail?

PS. As moderator, I edited your post to insert the photos into the post, which makes them much easier to see. I hope you don’t mind.

 

[RichT93]

So attached is the wiring diagram that was sent with the lights with my own notes on it based on what I could establish from the wiring diagram of the NC

There’s no relay off for the Denali light off the indicator circuit. Should just Positap in from what I understand

The Denali DRL just runs off the 12V indicator DRL.

The lights themself have the below:

• Total Power Draw: 0.25A DRL, 0.25A Turn Signal

 

[670cc]

The Denali light current draw doesn’t seem enough to cause excess voltage drop in the stock wire, hence no relay needed. .

Where is your red wire attached? I can’t tell that it is connected to the specified “switched power - 12 volt positive“, or “Vehicle Switched Power”. I don’t know about your country models, but on US models there would be no continuous 12 volt power switched by the ignition switch available on the turn signal wiring. The running light switches off when the turn signal comes on.

 

[RichT93]

I’ve got a UK model so when I switch the ignition on the indicators are “steady on” (red wire is to this) until you switch the indicator on then it flashes.

There’s three cables on the indicator stalk, Always on,Ground,Flash

I’m now thinking that maybe I do need to find a switch live and connect to that for the “Red always on” and then tap into the indicator for it to flash

 

[lootzyan]

...I’m now thinking that maybe I do need to find a switch live and connect to that ...

The Denali Instruction Manual says to connect directly to the power wires for the turn signal lights and headlights.
I don't understand the connection in your first picture. You connected the Denali T3 green wire to some black wire, the red wire to some orange wire, and the black wire to some gray wire. Why such connections?

 

[RichT93]

Yeeeeeeeh I realise what I’ve done. I’ve assumed the running light for the indicators is always live, and it’s not.

Going to look at fitting a thunder box to allow me to wire it correctly

What a melon cheers for the help

 

[670cc]

Yes, it is common for people to incorrectly assume the front running lights are always on, and try to use the wire for constant power or trigger. However, in some country markets I also understand the lighting Honda needs to supply follows local laws and may work differently, so one cannot assume anything. One must consult the schematic for their exact model.

 

[lootzyan]

...Going to look at fitting a thunder box to allow me to wire it correctly...

I am not familiar with "thunder box". Is it some kind of power distribution module? I don't think you need it.
Denali's instructions are simple. See part of the schematic in my previous thread.
Denali T3 black wire connect to green wire,
right T3 green wire connect to right turn signal light blue wire
and left T3 green wire to left turn signal orange wire,
T3 orange wire to headlight blue wire
and T3 red wire to headlight white wire.
If that doesn't work, give it back.

 

[670cc]

I am not familiar with "thunder box". Is it some kind of power distribution module? I don't think you need it.
Denali's instructions are simple. See part of the schematic in my previous thread.
Denali T3 black wire connect to green wire,
right T3 green wire connect to right turn signal light blue wire
and left T3 green wire to left turn signal orange wire,
T3 orange wire to headlight blue wire
and T3 red wire to headlight white wire.
If that doesn't work, give it back.

Your schematic in post #6 shows an incandescent headlight. If the OP’s 2021 NC750X has an LED headlight, is it still supplied +12 volts for high beam, and +12 volts for low (dipped) beam? Is the Denali expecting to see 12 volts? I saw one NC750X schematic, year and region market unidentified, having 5 wires going to the LED headlight assembly, but I could not trace their sources. No wire was plain white or blue.

 

[lootzyan]

Denali Instruction Manual for a T3 Modular Switchback Signal Pods say 12V signal is required. I can't see the entire wiring diagram. Looking at the diagram you provided, I think you can connect to the Bl / W and Bl / Bu wires, but without knowing the diagram, I can be wrong.

 

[lootzyan]

Or, for "Single Intensity DRL" - Tap Orange or Red* Wire to Switched Power Wire - 12v Positive (+). In this case tap to LED Headlight Bl wire (Po/L -BAT in).

 

[RichT93]

So I’ve been reviewing and coming back to it time again and I believe where the issue lies is the relay for the indicator system.

The Denali website says the pods draw 0.55A for the indicator and I imagine the circuit isn’t able to cope.

I’m almost certain this is the case as the pod and indicators do flash all be it really rapidly and really dim.

The drawings I have show the relay is 4pin and I believe I can find an upgradable part.

 

[RichT93]

Sorted it.

Signal wire needed wiring to the back indicator circuit and to ensure enough power is supplied to the T3 units I used the Daytona relay attached in the photo.

Appears to work now!