How to reset the PGM-FI / MIL light from a safety fault?

TacomaJD

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It’s a small red plug stored in the black plastic piece above the battery. It is not an OBDII connector and requires a specific Honda supplied connector for use with proprietary Honda diagnostic software. My pen is pointing to it. It’s a simple 3 or 4 wire Hitachi connector.

View attachment 46219
Awesome! Thanks Dave! I was looking for a clear/dull white-ish looking connector, but I guess that's the connector that's on the end of the generic adapter that's needed.

Also, do you know what that black box is just above your pen? I did find that on mine yesterday, assume it's a relay, but not sure for what. Doesn't matter really, just curious if you knew.
 

dduelin

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Awesome! Thanks Dave! I was looking for a clear/dull white-ish looking connector, but I guess that's the connector that's on the end of the generic adapter that's needed.

Also, do you know what that black box is just above your pen? I did find that on mine yesterday, assume it's a relay, but not sure for what. Doesn't matter really, just curious if you knew.
The black box is the body of a relay that powers the auxiliary lights. It's an add-on and not factory.

Good luck with the OBDII sleuthing. I didn't read the previous posts and did not know a generic adapter could be purchased for use with a scan tool tool or app. I have seen the DLC (that's what Honda calls the red connector) in use when we did a dyno run on my 2015. Previously to 2015 (and since) it was reported in magazines that DCT bikes could not run on a dyno because the front wheel would not be turning and the PCM would thus limit the bike to first gear only. At 2016 Daytona BW I saw Honda's DCT demo bike bolted down to a pallet-like thing with the rear wheel turning a weighted drum and knew it was possible. You could shift that stationary DCT demonstrator through all the gears. I learned that my dealer had the diagnostic software and ABS troubleshooting requires disabling the front wheel sensor and riding the bike. They had a dyno so we did the disabling while strapped on the Dyno Jet and run off several runs. I wanted to do it because it was said from 2012 that DCT bikes were hp limited compared to manuals but we proved that was not the case, at least in the USA.
 

TacomaJD

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Finally got my amazon obd2 adapter in today. It worked! Hooked it up to the red plug behind the frunk plate, hooked my cheapo obd2 scanner up to it, showed the same 1500 trouble code, which I'm sure is just a default thing. Anyways, clicked erase code and it said "code now erased", unplugged the scan tool, crunk 'er up, MIL is off and stays off. Success! Thanks for all the info Supertux!

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Does it display a data stream* ?
If you unplugged the coolant sensor……..will it display the code ?


* data stream……… would be live data things coolant temp, speed sensor, rpm, oil pressure,
 

TacomaJD

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Does it display a data stream* ?
If you unplugged the coolant sensor……..will it display the code ?


* data stream……… would be live data things coolant temp, speed sensor, rpm, oil pressure,
I have no answer for that one, my sole plan was to just make the MIL go off Lol but I don't think my cheapo scan tool is capable of anything like that.
 

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I have no answer for that one, my sole plan was to just make the MIL go off Lol but I don't think my cheapo scan tool is capable of anything like that.
OK

Had you tried the paper clip or jump wire prior to clear the MIL ?

The jumper wire or Service Check connector is jumping the brown and green wires to clear the codes.
To be clear a trip to the dealer is NOT required to clear codes( MIL) .
ED1E7E1E-81D3-4D36-AB82-B7DDE4E2E4A6.jpeg
 
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TacomaJD

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OK

Had you tried the paper clip or jump wire prior to clear the MIL ?

The jumper wire or Service Check connector is jumping the brown and green wires to clear the codes.
To be clear a trip to the dealer is NOT required to clear codes( MIL) .
View attachment 46380
No I didn't try the paper clip thing because, like the op, my light stayed on, even when trying the putting the kickstand down think and counting flashes. The light never flashed, and the paperclip thing didn't work for the op, so it sounded like the same problem I had.
 

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OK, folks, I spun my back tire on the center stand after tightening my chain to see if there was any whacky vibration in the chain. Next ride the dumb PGM-FI light comes on. I don't have the manual, am not enthusiastic about sticking paper clips in places based on the B&W photos above and don't have the magic code reader box (and wasn't planning to get it). The bike seemed to ride fine with the light on. Is there any fear of doing damage if I ride it like that a couple of days before I can get into my local service center?

Thanks
 

670cc

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OK, folks, I spun my back tire on the center stand after tightening my chain to see if there was any whacky vibration in the chain. Next ride the dumb PGM-FI light comes on. I don't have the manual, am not enthusiastic about sticking paper clips in places based on the B&W photos above and don't have the magic code reader box (and wasn't planning to get it). The bike seemed to ride fine with the light on. Is there any fear of doing damage if I ride it like that a couple of days before I can get into my local service center?

Thanks
For clarification, did you mean you spun the rear wheel by hand with the engine off, or spun it in gear under engine power?

It seems like DCT owners should avoid doing this. I have never spun the rear wheel on the center stand with engine power on my manual transmission NC because it would seem to serve no purpose.
 

Lomunchi

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Yes, I put it in gear. This seems a fairly harmless activity. I had done it on my Vespas for years without the computer putting up a hissy fit.
 

Lomunchi

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It's rare that something good gets reported for a dealer so I want to give a shout out to Heinen's Motorsports in Osseo MN (northern suburb of Minneapolis).

Their service department is backed up for weeks but they let me bring in my bike and reset the PGM at no charge while I waited. They were familiar with the situation and took care of it for me.

I appreciate the extra support and will go back to them.

Just passing it along. Thanks for listening.
 

showkey

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Just for clarification the black and white photo is the HONDA factory shop manual.

The paper clip or jump wire is used in place of the “Honda service check connector” which is loop of wire with a connector female cover.

The loop connection is the brown and green wires in the bikes data port as shown in the manual.

There are several shape and part numbers for the service check connnector at various prices ……some waht crazy prices for a loop of wire and plastic connector.
FA0A790E-098B-439A-8E29-6EBB19E987A1.png

For those that need a more detailed description of the use and function of the HONDA connector/jumper

 
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Lomunchi

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Has anyone just disconnected the battery, leave it disconnected for about an hour, reconnect it and see if the MIL light stays off?
I'm afraid I'd have to spend 4 hours going through the bloody display set up process again. Worst interface I've ever run into.
 

showkey

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Has anyone just disconnected the battery, leave it disconnected for about an hour, reconnect it and see if the MIL light stays off?
Disconnecting the battery ( even for week ) will NOT clear DTC.
Years back that did work ………that changed when vehicle emissions testing arrived. Not related to motorcycles but……..They ( EPA) want to stop battery disconnect prior to testing to clear codes that would cause a failure. Later emissions testing got more in depth with readiness checks of the emissions system. Meaning each individual system needs to complete a self test, drive cycle test and show passed.
 

davidc83

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Disconnecting the battery ( even for week ) will NOT clear DTC.
Years back that did work ………that changed when vehicle emissions testing arrived. Not related to motorcycles but……..They ( EPA) want to stop battery disconnect prior to testing to clear codes that would cause a failure. Later emissions testing got more in depth with readiness checks of the emissions system. Meaning each individual system needs to complete a self test, drive cycle test and show passed.
Worked on my 2015 Toyota Prius last month when I got a MIL light for a gas cap not screwed on correctly (my fault, pouring rain, didnt screw it on properly).....I knew what caused the MIL, disconnected battery, waited for an hour, reconnected and no MIL light....
 

showkey

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Worked on my 2015 Toyota Prius last month when I got a MIL light for a gas cap not screwed on correctly (my fault, pouring rain, didnt screw it on properly).....I knew what caused the MIL, disconnected battery, waited for an hour, reconnected and no MIL light....
The other side of “evap leak” MIL can be slight different than hard set codes and many automotive MIL ( codes) also self cancel* when they see the problem is no longer present. Example if you would not disconnect the battery and just put the cap back on tight. The next key cycle the fuel tank would have a slight pressure or vacuum ( negative pressure) the fuel pressure sensor would see the +/- pressure …….conclude the tank is sealed and turn off the light with no further action from the driver or dealer work needed. EVAP codes are so common and such a nuisance they developed a warning system before setting hard permanent code.

* some MIL errors ( codes) might need 2-3 drive cycles to auto clear the MIL. Drive cycle is cold start to complete warmup with certain types of driving.

automotive also have pending codes and permanent stored codes. Pending or temporary codes need to see the problem 2-3 times consecutively in drive cycles to set a hard code (permanent). Evap ( fuel Cap) codes can be pending code…..MIL light on first warning.

None of this pertains to the NC or many other motorcycles as the cycle systems are much less complex or sophisticated.
 
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