How to reset the PGM-FI / MIL light from a safety fault?

supertux1

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Alright so apparently I did a dumb thing and let the rear wheel spin while on the centerstand and now the PGM-FI / MIL light is on and won’t go off. Because it thinks the front tire ABS fell off or something. I was cleaning the chain and rims man! :)

Apparently this is a hard fault that doesn’t clear itself ( verified after a 20 mile ride with it on. The bike runs fine, 64 mpg in D (2016 DCT), 33,000 miles. )

So what magic voodoo dance do I have to do to clear this ( I’ve had the bike apart many times. Not afraid to tear into it. I know where the magic plug is, just please don’t tell me I need the dealers $3000 diagnostic tool. Or the dealer. )

Thanks!
 

hulkss

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Good luck with this. The bottom image shows which pins are shorted if you want to go at it with a piece of wire.

IMG_2125.jpg

IMG_2126.jpg


MTQyMTU2MQ-a51b5886.jpg


IMG_2127.jpg
 
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supertux1

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Yeah that’s the first thing I tried, paper clip ECU reset method. The light is still on. That little connector is actually an ODB2 port so I bought an adapter and we’ll see what the reader says and if it will allow me to clear it. Stay tuned!
 
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Strange. Following this. My manual 2012 700sa also blinks the ABS light when I do chain maintenance on the centerstand, but the fault isn't permanent. Next time I ride the bike, the ABS light turns off within 50m of leaving home.

Maybe the DCT bikes have a more conservative MIL logic with speed sensor faults because of the possibility of transmission damage.
 

supertux1

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Are y'all cleaning the chain with the engine running? Why would your check engine light come on
I have read from another thread that it is because it thinks there’s something terribly wrong when the rear wheel moves and the front ABS sensor reports that the front wheel isn’t moving. The kind of fault that can only be cleared with a dealer computer.

Might only be an issue with the DCT bikes. It’s a handy way to spin the chain and rim for cleaning, being careful not to get anything caught and pulled into it. Eg spraying cleaner, using a brush.
 

670cc

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Maybe the light is still on because a fault condition still exists. Throughout all this discussion, no one has mentioned what the fault code is, to identify the real reason the MIL is on. While the MIL is still on, I would want to read the code to see what the actual fault is. There may be a different reason for the fault light than what is being assumed. You could try lowering the side stand with the engine running and the transmission in neutral, and see if the MIL flashes the code.
 

lootzyan

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According to the owner's manual:
"PGM-FI (Programmed Fuel Injection) Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL):
If the indicator comes on while riding, you may have a serious problem with the PGM-FI system. Reduce speed and have your motorcycle inspected by your dealer as soon as possible."

Meaning: You are on your own because we have no idea what's going on.

On other hand, according to the Service Manual:
"MIL stays ON but no DTCs set, inspect the MIL circuit (page 4-xx, check according to your edition)".
"If the MIL stays on, check as follows:
Turn the ignition switch OFF.
Disconnect the following:
- PCM 33P (Gray) connector
Check for continuity between the ECM/PCM 33P connector [1] of the wire harness side and ground.
CONNECTION: Brown - Ground
STANDARD: No continuity
If there is continuity, check for short circuit in the Brown wire between the DLC and ECM/PCM.
If there is no continuity, replace the ECM/PCM with a known good one, and recheck."


Again, it doesn't make sense in your situation.
My suggestion: disconnect the battery, clean and reconnect the PCM and combination meter connectors.
 

Janus

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I have read from another thread that it is because it thinks there’s something terribly wrong when the rear wheel moves and the front ABS sensor reports that the front wheel isn’t moving. The kind of fault that can only be cleared with a dealer computer.

Might only be an issue with the DCT bikes. It’s a handy way to spin the chain and rim for cleaning, being careful not to get anything caught and pulled into it. Eg spraying cleaner, using a brush.
Using your hand is a handy way to spin the chain and rim, without any risk of injury or damage. There's literally a warning on the swingarm to not use the engine while cleaning the chain.

Yikes!
 

Janus

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And there's literally a warning on the side of the Q-Tip box not to stick the swab into your ear canal.
In my opinion, there's a fine line between a "safety" warning and a "liability" warning. :p
Otolaryngologists can tell you why that warning is one worth heeding, but the risk of misusing q-tips is not comparable to the danger of a moving chain. The amount of effort saved is incredibly minimal anyway.

I suppose it's like wearing a helmet. You don't have to wear them everywhere you go, but if you don't follow basic caution there's not much worth protecting anyway. I will continue chuckling every time one of these threads pops up for this disregard of safety and multiple warnings. Enjoy your MILs!
 

showkey

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And there's literally a warning on the side of the Q-Tip box not to stick the swab into your ear canal.
In my opinion, there's a fine line between a "safety" warning and a "liability" warning. :p
Reality is motorcycle chain and bicycle chains have a potential obvious pinch point.

Google images “motorcycle chain amputation” if you need graphic examples and need more info.
 

Janus

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Reality is motorcycle chain and bicycle chains have a potential obvious pinch point.

Google images “motorcycle chain amputation” if you need graphic examples and need more info.
I should not have looked this up while eating :eek:
 

supertux1

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I was able to clear the fault for $35 worth of parts from Amazon and learned some things in the process.

But first, let me tell you what didn't work:

1. Resetting the ECU with the paperclip-in, ignition on, paperclip-out, paperclip-in method described in the Service Manual.
2. Attempting to read the code by counting flashes. The MIL light was solid on after ignition on, no long blinks, no short blinks, no nothing.

Here's what worked:

1. Honda OBD Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091GQ44FN
2. OBD2 Scanner Car Diagnostic Scan Tool Check: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083W1LGDP
3. Read the code then erase the code from the scan tool.

The code I read from it was P1500 which, in 'most' cars, has something to do with the vehicle speed sensor. There's nothing wrong with it, speed checked with GPS on my phone.
Probably because the rear wheel was turning and the front one wasn't and the ABS pulses didn't match or something like that.

Someone pull a long wheelie, brake the front and see if the light comes on. :)

Now I have an extra tool for my car and my bike and I'll be able to read diagnostic codes for both should they occur in the future.

Some things to note: The 2016 uses the KWP2000 protocol. I think most scanners support this (there are 5 protocols) but you never know. I guess I got lucky.

I was able to reset the ECU with the paperclip method only _AFTER_ clearing the code.


P1500.jpg

erase.jpg
 

lootzyan

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...Now I have an extra tool for my car and my bike and I'll be able to read diagnostic codes for both should they occur in the future...
I really doubt if you are able to read any DTCs with normal OBD2 Scanner.
I see no reason why such a technique would not be mentioned in the Service Manual.
I have been using the OBD2 Scanner in my Nissan Altima for many years to get rid of the fake codes that were showing up because of a bad electrical connection somewhere and which were hard for me to find, e.g. P500 - bad VSS, or P304 - damaged 4th spark plug. Of course, the car ran without problems, despite these errors.
I guess in your case there was no DTC code registered in the memory. The Service Manual mentions this as a possible event - reason unknown.
 

supertux1

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I really doubt if you are able to read any DTCs with normal OBD2 Scanner.
I see no reason why such a technique would not be mentioned in the Service Manual.
I have been using the OBD2 Scanner in my Nissan Altima for many years to get rid of the fake codes that were showing up because of a bad electrical connection somewhere and which were hard for me to find, e.g. P500 - bad VSS, or P304 - damaged 4th spark plug. Of course, the car ran without problems, despite these errors.
I guess in your case there was no DTC code registered in the memory. The Service Manual mentions this as a possible event - reason unknown.

Yah who knows, it actually 'errored' when it tried to remove the code (cause maybe there aren't any real ones?) but the MIL light went off when I did.

The only other tool I've seen (but can't verify) is little black boxes like this:

https://www.obd16shop.com/wholesale/obd-tool-for-fuel-injected-honda-motorcycles.html

or this:


Those might be able to better see what's actually going on (when the engine is running.)

Just for fun I connected my cheapo orange unit here while the engine was running but couldn't glean anything interesting from it other than a few serial numbers, VIN etc...
 
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