horn upgrade

[MiamiNC700]

MIL came on after blowing a fuse

I saw a video of a chap replacing that same horn to his 2016 NC750X and it was a matter of plug and play. No fuses blown! My bike is a 2016 NC700X. Could it be then a case of reverse polarity? There are no marks on the horn to indicate + or - ..... I’m still puzzled. Daniel

Now I have to add, this morning when started the bike before leaving home, the MIL light came on. Is there a step by step procedure to clear it? Please help!

 

[670cc]

Now I have to add, this morning when started the bike before leaving home, the MIL light came on. Is there a step by step procedure to clear it? Please help!

I read the specs on the Soundbomb mini and they claimed a current draw of 5 amps. If I were doing the install, I would probably install a relay to get the load separated from whatever else might be on the same circuit, and protect the horn switch. But, 5 amps is low enough you could probably get away with no relay and do plug and play.

Whatever you do, do not increase the fuse size to “correct” your problem.

Since the fuse blew previously, and the MIL is on now, it suggests the possibility there is a polarity reversal, or a wiring harness fault, or even that the horn is defective.

When the MIL is on, with the engine running and the transmission in neutral, lower the side stand and the light will flash out the fault code. Knowing the code might help identify what has gone wrong. I believe when the fault no longer exists, the light will go off.

Here is a thread about the MIL: How to read MIL code by myself?

There are probably other threads about the MIL, which you’re free to search for.

 

[GregC]

FYI from an older horn thread: “The electrical schematic shows the horn on a 7.5 amp circuit with the brake and turn lights. Two turn signals and the brake light should be 6.3 amps on top of [the amps the horn requires].”




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[New Commuter700]

I bought the mini also, plugged it in and blew the fuse. I now have it sitting in a box as I didn't have time to try to track down the issue. It's clearly pulling more than the 7.5 amps by itself.

 

[MZ5]

Must not be all that well-designed, or manufacturing variance is high. In any event, I wouldn't even consider putting a horn with a 5-amp draw on top of the brake light circuit. You may well be on both at once when you really want them to work, and the circuit just isn't built for that kind of load.

Even I put my horns on a relay, with the factory horn button & wire merely triggering the relay. I say "even I" because I seriously dislike working on automotive electrical systems most of the time. So, if I can do it and not get irritated, you can, too. (-: