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help cannot open seat to gas bike at station now

Sorry all this happened but sure good info. Today I went to get some more keys and one dealer said (I did not buy there and pissed them off) could not make key without number. The dealer I did buy from made me two new plain keys (no rubber $5.00 each) from the original and one is perfect the other starts ignition but does not open frunk or gas .... and they re-did it three times and the last time I had the number ..... Tells me the frunk lock is not the same quality as the ignition. Hope someone comes up with an emergency open seat lock for the gas or I'll just have to Aggie engineer something before I head to Alaska in June..... Maybe just change the Frunk/gas opening lock with something else .... hum .....
 
There is a company that makes an electric frunk opener. Thread out here somewhere with the info. Also I believe hondabikepro found that the fake air vents can be opened enough without removing the screw hidden by the frunk, you do remove the clip, so that you can get to the lock and trigger it manually. He has a post on how to put in an emergency frunk cable. Basically once you get to the lock you can see where to attach a wire.
 
gboswellsac,
Since one of the keys you had made works in both ignition and frunk, I'd suggest you go to a good hardware store or locksmith and have them make a key. I've been wrong before, but I think it's more likely that the dealer was a little off on the key cutting than you have a flakey frunk lock. I'd bet that if you have an HD109 (that's the number of the key blank that fits the frunk lock) key cut by a place that does a lot of keys you will get one that works well.

Bob
 
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gboswellsac,
Since one of the keys you had made works in both ignition and frunk, I'd suggest you go to a good hardware store or locksmith and have them make a key. I've been wrong before, but I think it's more likely that the dealer was a little off on the key cutting than you have a flakey frunk lock. I'd bet that if you have an HD109 (that's the number of the key blank that fits the frunk lock) key cut by a place that does a lot of keys you will get one that works well.

Bob

Well you were right on as I found another dealer who made one for 7.95 and he made sure worked both locks, and did the first time. Guess I'll set up like drseth suggested but still think a safety pull for the rear seat release is a must if I plan to travel some areas where AAA and AMA towing are not available but then maybe that is just a paranoid old man talking. My Hondas have never stranded me although a bad carb on a GL1100 made for an interesting trip to Montana and back, especially when two CO dealers told me I'd have to wait for 10 days to fit me in...started carrying tools on the Honda like I did on my BMW's, course on the GL1800, 103K and no need and believe the NC700X will be even better. Thaanks agin for the help.
Boz
 
I anticipated the potential for accidentally locking the keys in the frunk from day one.

My simple solution is to carry my spare key in my jacket, so far my solution hasn't had to be implemented.

Oh and another thing, to help prevent the key snapping in the lock I always press the top of the frunk down prior to turning the key, it takes some pressure off of the key itself. A good squirt of WD40 in the lock after every wash too keeps it slick.
The above goes for the rear seat release too.
 
A good squirt of WD40 in the lock after every wash too keeps it slick.

I like to use graphite to lube locks. WD40 will attract dirt and dust over time. Plus, it's not really a lubricant but a Water Dispersant (hence the name WD).
 
My concern with the frunk/fuel lock is the amount of pressure required when turning to unlock the rear seat. I am worried that the key will bend and then not fit in the ignition. Does anybody else find the seat lock very stiff?
 
when I re-fitted my gas seat .I had a job to get it to open.
what I did is loosen every thing up but just tight enough to stay in place once it is reopen again.
once done then tightened every thing up and it worked.
and I always press the seat down to unlock it.once it is release keep the key in the unlock position then just tap the seat hard enough for it to open up.
worked for me every time.
 
My concern with the frunk/fuel lock is the amount of pressure required when turning to unlock the rear seat. I am worried that the key will bend and then not fit in the ignition. Does anybody else find the seat lock very stiff?

Er, hello.

Oh and another thing, to help prevent the key snapping in the lock I always press the top of the frunk down prior to turning the key, it takes some pressure off of the key itself.
 
Tried that, it didn't make any difference. I've also had times where the left side of the seat hasn't clipped down properly, so when I have a bit of time I need to see if it is possible to adjust the catch.
 
Under the rear fender, there is a hinged access door to get to an electrical plug. The door is held closed by 1 phillips screw. Good spot to duct tape a spare key. You can remove the screw with a pen knife.
Pushing down on the passenger seat before turning the fuel latch is a lot easier on the cable.
 
Tried that, it didn't make any difference. I've also had times where the left side of the seat hasn't clipped down properly, so when I have a bit of time I need to see if it is possible to adjust the catch.

A dob of grease on the springs helps.
 
Tried that, it didn't make any difference. I've also had times where the left side of the seat hasn't clipped down properly, so when I have a bit of time I need to see if it is possible to adjust the catch.

did you not read my post!!
if no one is going to read then what the use of posting.
you've ask a question you get answers ,there is no magic formulas .
there is no easier way than doing what I did.
adjust the seat latch if you can do it will only make things worse.
it only need a mm or two to make it fit but you still need to press the seat down to help the key to turn.
 
did you not read my post!!
if no one is going to read then what the use of posting.
you've ask a question you get answers ,there is no magic formulas .
there is no easier way than doing what I did.
adjust the seat latch if you can do it will only make things worse.
it only need a mm or two to make it fit but you still need to press the seat down to help the key to turn.

Actually, I did read your post, and thank you for it. Unfortunately I am not sure if my English is not very good, or my mind is not seeing things your way, but it didn't make much sense. Please don't take offense, I really couldn't make out what you were trying to get across.:confused:
 
no offence taken Colinw ,I'm thick skinned I'll more likely upset other before I spit ma dummy out.;).
try and adjust your seat. once you've lifted the seat up .
you will see 3 nuts. undo them and then nip them up finger tight and gently closed the seat.
release it again then tightened the nuts up but try not to move the seat whilst doing so.
 
no offence taken Colinw ,I'm thick skinned I'll more likely upset other before I spit ma dummy out.;).
try and adjust your seat. once you've lifted the seat up .
you will see 3 nuts. undo them and then nip them up finger tight and gently closed the seat.
release it again then tightened the nuts up but try not to move the seat whilst doing so.
Ah! Thank you kindly. That makes a lot of sense. One would have thought I would have got it the first time. Whereabout are you in the UK?
 
one live in the north east near Middlesborough so one doesn't speak posh just rough around the edges and to blunt some times;)

[video=youtube_share;g4oaGQ2POC8]http://youtu.be/g4oaGQ2POC8[/video]
 
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