A worn chain and a worn sprocket are a matched set. You would have done as poorly with a new chain on a very, very worn sprocket.
Drive sprocket noise.
- Thread starter backtochain
- Start date
A worn chain and a worn sprocket are a matched set. You would have done as poorly with a new chain on a very, very worn sprocket.
D
Deleted member 1183
I will take the oposite view .......replace the chain and only replace the sprockets if they are worn. Usually replace the sprockets every other chain. Front wears a faster rate than the rear. Example on this site when chains are noisy or kinky links at 4000- 8000 miles it is a waste of time and money to replace the sprockets in most cases. The sprockets do not have to be replaced set and the front is often replaced sooner. Not posting a resume
Edit... with in reason......if your getting 30,000 or 40,000 miles out of chain sprocket then chain and sprockets kit most likely is a good choice. One has to judge the sprocket wear on lower mileage chain replacing.
Usually when my chain reaches the end of its life (around 20,000kms +), the front sprocket is badly worn, and it would be most unwise to reuse it. The rear sprocket by comparison will not look as bad but it will still have some wear on it and that wear will contribute to excessive wear on a new chain. Imho it is always best to replace all three as a set. I also believe it is best to use an OEM front sprocket, to avoid premature wear of the splines on the output shaft, especially on an output shaft with a floating sprocket.
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Nortwestrider
New Member
I put my first new front on a chain with 10,000 miles on it and it worked fine.
Live life,be yourself !!!!.
backtochain
Site Supporter
You know it's weird when I started out riding last spring I replaced the drive sprocket and installed a Moose chain. A non O-ring cheap basic 520 chain. I never once had any knocking , the chain ran as quiet as the gears in my head. Only pain was having to adjust tension every 2-300 mi. Couldn't wait until I put the DID back on. That trash Moose chain seemed to be a bit of a lighter chain in comparison to the DID ; granted a softer steel and no rings. If I remember correctly most folks mentioned how poor the stock chain was that came off the assembly line. Maybe the stock drive/driven sprocket is not compatible with the heavier DID chain. Repeating what's already been mentioned , the only time I hear the knocking is throttle closed and/or clutch pulled in preparing to stop or in between shifting gears. During throttle acceleration until designated speed I find no knocking. I'm still working on my dilemma. Thanks for the feedback.
The sprocket is the same for all 520 chain whether o-ring or standard. The 520 spec calls for a 5/8 inch pitch and 1/4 inch inside (roller) width. The extra width and weight of the o-ring chain is outside of the roller width.
backtochain
Site Supporter
Well I found my issue with the knocking noise. I don't think I was clamping the motion pro alignment tool on properly. But now it's rotating smoothly with no knocking after a good hard run.
Good deal. As I said earlier, I found it hard to accept that a VX2 was worn with so few miles. Persistence pays!
pismocycleguy
New Member
So the noise was from a misaligned chain? Sometimes the easiest problems are the hardest to find!
kebrider
Active Member
I am at just below 5,000 miles on my JT 525 chain and sprockets and have still not made the first adjustment. I have gotten over 45,000 miles from chains in the past but this may be the longest lasting set I have used. The 525 is probably well under stressed on the NC and it is always quiet and smooth with no tight spots. The stock chain had tight spots from day one and even though it had not worn much I always felt the poor construction of the chain contributed to vibes and I really wanted to get started on testing a 525 kit so i changed it out at 11,000 miles. The bike feel smoother, especially at higher speeds where it is very smooth now.
Antarius
Site Supporter
Where did you get a set of sprockets for the NC700 in 525 pitch? I'd like to convert to a 525 instead of the stock 520.
Nofear2trek
Elite Member
Just got this from Amazon: JT Sprockets JTSK7018 525Z1R Chain and 15 Front/42 Rear Tooth Sprocket Kit.
Price: $21.14 & FREE Shipping on orders over $35
You Save: $146.33 (87%)
Amazon.com: JT Sprockets JTSK7018 525Z1R Chain and 15 Front/42 Rear Tooth Sprocket Kit: Automotive
I pulled the trigger immediately, hope it fits...I wanted the higher ratio on DCT.
Ray
That is a significant change (from 2.44 to 2.80). Minus one tooth on the front is the approximate equivalent of plus three teeth on the rear, so this combination is the equivalent (on a DCT) of plus six teeth on the rear. You could split the difference and get a ratio of 2.68 by using the manual transmission sprockets of 16/43.
In general, where you have a choice, it is more reliable to add to the rear than to subtract from the front. The tighter bend radius on the smaller front sprocket adds to the rate of wear A larger rear sprocket actually reduces it. A 15 tooth front sprocket is not uncommon or extreme, so I am not saying it will not work, but given an equal opportunity to make the change at the rear you can help chain and sprocket life a bit. Be sure you recalculate the number of links of chain required when you change sprocket sizes as well or buy a standard 120 link chain and be prepared to cut a few links off before you install it.
Finally, there is often confusion about which ratio is higher or lower. Your change is numerically higher, but is what most people would call "lower gearing" because the engine will be running at a higher speed for a given road speed.
Nofear2trek
Elite Member
Thanks for the explanation.
I am considering switching from a manual to a DCT. I will be changing the rear tire to a 705 150/70. I will be using it to tow my new moto-mule heavy duty version trailer (now being constructed), pulling between 60-100 lbs. I saw the price of the JT Kit on Amazon and jumped on it, not knowing if they will fulfill it. I will test a mix of front and rear sprockets to eventually find the best ones suited for my needs. Your insight will help me find the happy median.
Ray
Useful extra information Ray. If you are going to be changing ratios a lot, then a front sprocket change is preferable, because you would not have to make any chain length adjustments. If you are going to change it and keep it then the original advice holds. Most likely you can get the rear where you want it and switch between a 15 and 16 front for the different conditions (towing vs. not).
kebrider
Active Member
JT's catalog includes the exact geometric measurements of all their sprockets so you can take the measurements listed for any bike's stock replacement and match it up with different models that use larger chain sets. When a rainy Saturday came along I did the research. Here's a link to the thread I started:
http://nc700-forum.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/8303-chain-research-525-upgrade-possibility.html
KEB
