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Do you run lithium battery on your NC ?

serge

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Hello, the factory battery on my 2012 NC700 gave out and I am considering getting a lithium one instead.
I would really appreciate hearing from those who run one on their NC, which brand if they have any issues/buyers remorse ;)

Thank you !!
 
My total experience with lithium batteries is in the area of RC boats, trucks and flying contraptions.
EVERY single one of these 3S (11.1V)or 4S (14.8V) packs that I have used over the past 4 years has puffed up considerably due to trapped gasses from just normal use.
Lithium RC batteries have also been known to occasionally violently self destruct with some disastrous results, like houses or cars burning down if charging them inside.
How this may affect a MC battery, I have no clue.
RC type lithium batteries are VERY VERY finicky about they are charged and demand a specialized charger that maintains a perfect voltage balance between each cell to assure a good charge. I'm not at all sure the MC charging system is anywhere near sophisticated enough to accomplish this task on its own.
Just be aware.
BTW....As a basis of comparison, I replaced the OEM non maintenance AGM Pb battery on my 2006 R1200RT after SIX years and 36000 miles. That motor draws a ton of amps on cranking and it lasted that long and cost less than a lithium. To me the weight savings of a lithium is of zero concern.
 
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How this may affect a MC battery, I have no clue.

It doesn't. Llithium iron phosphate motorcycle batteries have little of significance in common with lithium ion batteries. They both contain lithium - just like water and hydrochloric acid both contain hydrogen.
 
Agreed. I would look at Li Fe PO4 only. Bioenno power is one source of these and includes the battery management system built into the battery. 240 CCA for $99 which I am just about to order for my 1000 cc wave runner. I will report back if I have any problems.
 
I put a lithium battery in my Suzuki DR650. I really didn't see any advantages except for weight. Sometimes on cold mornings, you would need to let the battery warm up a little before hitting the starter.
 
I have run Lithium batteries in my last two motorcycles. I leave the bike all winter under my fabric "bike garage" at the back of the yard and she starts right up in the spring, first crank. Less weight too and smaller.
 
LiFePO4 batteries can be excellent but must be chosen wisely... (i.e. ignore their manufacturers suggestions. Pb equivalent Ah & CCA are meaningless for LFP chemistry. So you need their REAL capacity [Ah, not PbEq. Ah] to be as close as possible to your AGM's capacity).

The lower weigh is just a bonus for us (but very important for racers).


See post #5 of the above link...
 
For what its worth, I just ran across this while cruising the net this morning
Note that this is a Lithium-ION and NOT a Lithium-Iron.
The cranking amps are eye opening
 

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The cranking amps are eye opening

Technically a LiFePO4 battery is also a lithium ion, however most companies distinguish it differently to prevent confusion. From the Microgravity website...

Microgravity said:
The Power Cell we use is the most tested, reliable, durable and powerful Lifepo4 battery cell made, period.

FAQ
 
Seems to me at some point the starter motor controls the cranking amps. Once the battery is capable of supplying infinite current at 12 volts, the starter motor resistance and the mechanical load of cranking the engine will ultimately determine the cranking amps. 780 cranking amps is silly for a motorcycle.
 
For what its worth, I just ran across this while cruising the net this morning
Note that this is a Lithium-ION and NOT a Lithium-Iron.
The cranking amps are eye opening
That's impossible. Only LiFePO4 chemistry is compatible with motorcycle's AGM charging system and SAFE to use. All other chemistries from LiIon FAMILY (LiCoO2, LMO, etc) are incompatible with motorcycle's charging system and they're very unstable. They absolutely need a BMS to regulate the charge and different voltages to operate...
 
Seems to me at some point the starter motor controls the cranking amps. Once the battery is capable of supplying infinite current at 12 volts, the starter motor resistance and the mechanical load of cranking the engine will ultimately determine the cranking amps. 780 cranking amps is silly for a motorcycle.
Pb equivalent CCAs is meaningless for LFP batteries (it's a marketing tool for these batteries, like Pb eq. Ah). They can give you all of their power in a moment because of the very low internal resistance, the absence of Peuker's law...
 
780 cranking amps is silly for a motorcycle.

780 cranking amps makes a much better YoutTube video when you accidentally short out the battery. The weld splatter will probably hit the opposite wall.

That's impossible.
Read my post above. Microgravity is using confusing terminology.
 
I currently run this one, plus the lithium battery tender: Battery Tender Lithium

The one thing I will say is that the 'Pb Eq' is misleading, because right next to it it says 51.2 Whrs, which at 12V, means this is really a 4A battery not 10-14A.

I confirmed that by leaving the ignition/lights on without the engine running while working on a circuit for about half an hour and killed it.

The good news is it came back from dead & able to start the bike after being put on the lithium battery tender for about an hour.

The battery also is usually around 13.3V fully charged, I keep it on the tender all the time when not riding it.
 
Thanks Guys ! I went with Shorai LFX18A1-BS12 Extreme Rate Lithium Iron Powersports Battery which I got for $170 on Amazon and now it is $148 ...
It came with variety of pads to compensate for smaller size (it is just a little more narrow than OEM) and with its own bolts. So far so good ...
 
Thanks Guys ! I went with Shorai LFX18A1-BS12 Extreme Rate Lithium Iron Powersports Battery which I got for $170 on Amazon and now it is $148 ...
It came with variety of pads to compensate for smaller size (it is just a little more narrow than OEM) and with its own bolts. So far so good ...
I

Here is update 18 month later - the battery performing flawlessly with my short 4 miles commute and grip heaters on in a winter most of the time - I have not put any charger on it since installation !
 
I have had a Battery Tender Lithium in mine for 2 years, going on 3 in the spring. It has four terminals which makes orienting the battery simple and extra terminals for my fuse block (PDM60), air horn, SAE charge lead, aux lights etc etc...

The battery is tiny, so you can cram more stuff in the battery box with it, like your fuse block, or in my case the display/recording unit for the dashcam system. (Inovv K1)

It needs a special lithium trickle charger which I use during winter storage months.

The thing you need to watch for is that although these batteries have the same ‘cold cranking amps’ as a lead acid, they have far less capacity. Mine has 4AH I think. You do not want to have the ignition on for a long time without starting the bike. Ask me how I know! :)
 
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