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caution: 1 bolt = $400

StratTuner

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I was out and about to change the front brake pads on the disk brake.
I've done this for the last 95,000 miles on the NC700x.

I tightened just a little too much on the bolt that holds the front pads in...and

s t r i p p....

well , turns out the front caliper (non ABS) is $300, and the mechanic wants $100 to change it out.... (the ABS caliper is almost double at $500 something)

Lesson: don't strip out that bolt !

Shade Tree engineering:
that bolt could just as easily be replaced with a pin of the same diameter.
I'd make it a little longer and with a "head" like you might find on any bolt.
the other end would have a hole where I could fit in a steel cotter pin.
That setup doesn't need threads in the caliper itself and would be easier (cheaper) to service. Maybe next time.
 
"A HeliCoil is a coiled-wire type of thread repair insert used to create internal screw threads to accommodate standard-sized fasteners."

Ok great. never heard of it and don't understand how it would work.
Once stripped, the hole in the caliper is now BIGGER than it was.
Even if you could somehow regenerate new threads they would need to be for a different diameter bolt?

I suppose you could just use a different bolt meant to fit the new diameter.
 
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the bolt, or pin, also has to go through the hole in the pad itsels...so it seems like the diameter would have to match precisely....or the pad would rattle, slightly loose, on something smaller.

If the new bolt were slightly bigger then I'd have to drill the hole in the brake pad to match it.
Still, that would be cheaper than replacing the whole caliper.
 
well ...for me it's done now, but thanks for educating me about putting threads back after stripping them out.
 
(It's a very good idea to invest to a quality torque wrench...)

I have a torque wrench. Quality ...who knows...

I'm not smart enough (all by myself) to read the wrench accurately and match it up with what the manual calls for. (units of measure are not the same)....so guessing is the order of the day... that works.... usually...

can you recommend a torque wrench that will work accurately on such a small torque value?
 
Used front calipers are going for $75 or less on eBay. No need to pay a dealer for new.

Used or new Honda parts would be fine, but I would not try to substitute any non OEM bolts, and in this case I would be reluctant to use a Helicoil. The front brake is pretty important, you know.
 
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it's really easy to test torque wrench at home for accuracy. google it. why do you have to change whole assembly?
which bolt you are talking about from ste7ios link above?
 
At home? No, unless you've one of those (more than) expensive calibrator tools... The only easy way is the dealer who is able to check it and then calibrate it if needed... A torque wrench is not just a wrench but a high precision measurement tool.

In general torque wrenches with a large scale are not accurate...
 
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can you recommend a torque wrench that will work accurately on such a small torque value?

They are out there. I have a Snap On item that is electronic. It reads down to very low torque but even then I still would not trust it. On such bolts I use a Tbar and err on the gentle side. I have never heard of one backing out though.
 
If one looks at the exploded caliper assembly referenced above, they would see that the caliper is sold as an assembly; there is no way to buy the part of the caliper that had the threads stripped out. Item 4, Pin, Hanger retains the pads, Note that the threads are are right below the head of the bolt. The threads are only for keeping the pin in the caliper. Threads in the far end of the pin would result in a clamping force on the caliper, which is not desired, and as the caliper heated up, would put tension on the bolt. FWIW, the O.D. of the threaded area is 9.5 mm. It took some real torque to rip those threads out. This is reminiscent of threads about breaking valve cover retaining bolts. A super-duper CNC lab grade torque wrench will not keep someone from breaking things. Unless otherwise noted, torque specifications are for clean, dry threads. Dirt, corrosion, oil, anti-seize, etc., require a different amount of torque. The best way to not break things is to develop a feel for mechanical things.
 
When I tought high school small engine repair..........we took all the 1/2" and 3/8" drive rachets and breaker bars and locked them up. Issued 1/4" drive rachets and spinner t-handles and the broken bolts and striped threads amazingly disappeared.

As far as small value torque wrenches ..........inch pound is the tool of choice. Even the cheap beam version will do in the DIY shop. But you still need to choose the correct value from the book and apply that correct value to the tool.

+10 on this quote from above post. "The best way to not break things is to develop a feel for mechanical things." There is no substitute for good judgement by the user of the tool especially the torque wrench.


IMG_2156.jpg
 
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Take a look at the latest "Honda Common Service Manual". It explains all about torque and other basic knowledge.

As b_rubenstein said, the specified torque values assumes clean, dry threads unless otherwise mentioned. If there is some lubrication on the threads the torque must be less. There are tables that define that. Definitely you must know what you're doing, especially when following DYI instructions. Most of the time they're unaware of or they don't mention important details like that.
 
I have a torque wrench. Quality ...who knows...

I'm not smart enough (all by myself) to read the wrench accurately and match it up with what the manual calls for. (units of measure are not the same)....so guessing is the order of the day... that works.... usually...

can you recommend a torque wrench that will work accurately on such a small torque value?
Harbor freight has three sizes. Accurate enough for most things. Craftsman or snap on if you want better

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
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