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Building a NC700X into a "Communter Bike"

I am proof of this. I accidentally killed my battery yesterday. I left the key on and within 30 minutes or less it was dead.
Yes, I know. I've done it before as well. Sometimes these are early warning signs to replace the battery. When all is well it starts with no problem but if it is cold or the lights have been left on even a few minutes the battery can't cope with the normal load of starting and craps the bed. It might be jumped off and babied along for a while but each deep discharge takes another bite out of usable capacity.
 
Why would I need any of that stuff to ride four miles to work?

10 miles for me - but yeah right? The frunk holds my lunch. I do put on a taller screen in the fridgid 50 degree winters here and a set of fork gators to keep the sand at bay, but don't add stuff - take stuff off - like that ugly fender and that howitzer sized can. Just sayin' ;)

0205141609a.jpg
 
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Trackside hand guards (with handmade overside shields), battery tender connectors (in the frunk), 12volt plug (in the frunk), instead of heated grips, I use heated glove liners (I have multiple bikes I can use the same glove liners), trunk, side bags (el cheapo, I installed 6" L brackets onto the bars holding the trunk to keep the side bags level-they are cheap but do the job), sheepskin cover (use during the cold temps, usually remove in warmer months), Cee Baileys windshield. The only other option I am going to install is some kind of forward foot pegs (not a replacement for the standard, but in addition to).

 
Moderator's Note: Moved the thread to the mods section since that's what it's all about.
 
The reason I bought the NC in the first place was the little tank storage so I had somewhere to put my lunch so I would not have to add all that crap to the bike.
 
Yes, I know. I've done it before as well. Sometimes these are early warning signs to replace the battery. When all is well it starts with no problem but if it is cold or the lights have been left on even a few minutes the battery can't cope with the normal load of starting and craps the bed. It might be jumped off and babied along for a while but each deep discharge takes another bite out of usable capacity.

After my stunt yesterday I've thought to myself that I may want to think about changing the battery. It may or may not need it but I don't want to be out in the middle of nowhere again and it decides it is done. Better safe than sorry and they don't cost that much for a piece of mind.
 
After my stunt yesterday I've thought to myself that I may want to think about changing the battery. It may or may not need it but I don't want to be out in the middle of nowhere again and it decides it is done. Better safe than sorry and they don't cost that much for a piece of mind.

Makes you wish for one of these from the good ol' days:
Kick-start.jpg
 
I choose a Marinco 12 volt outlet over the cheesy Honda one and run it directly off the battery, fuzed of course, with 14 AWG wire. Marinco rates the outlet at 15 amps and it is waterproof and has a locking male connector similarly rated. For an EE I surprised you overlook Puekert's Law. An 11 Ah battery like the OEM battery under a 15 amp load is discharged in a few minutes.....as amp draw goes up capacity drops.

Yeah, I overlooked that. I greatful respect you for pointing that out to me. :)

For the last 15 years of my career, I have been heavily involved with "Mechanical Design and Electrical Integration". I have taken on the role as an Electo-Mechanical Engineer for that length of time. I have using SolidWorks for 14 of those years and in the past 4 years I have been involved with CNC Machining and fabrication using MasterCam. I’m basically a ME, EE, CNC Programmer, Machinist, CNC Operator, and Assembler. I do not “Regret” my choices that have brought me where I am today. It helps me with many items, such as being a Motorcycle Mechanic from time to time…
 
Makes you wish for one of these from the good ol' days:
View attachment 16504

I still have a bike that has one of these. I have not used it in awhile though... :)

The kickstarter when "Extinct" back in 1980... :(


I remembered seeing a "Blankout Cover" where the kick stater would have been for many years afterwards. Of course with was later on in my life when I noticed it, I was only 7 years old at the time.
 
That's no joke. I tried to push start it three times and that was not happening. Sure could have used a kick start.

These newer bikes with Fuel Injection have bunch of sensors, such as crankshaft positioning sensor. The motor must spin a full revolution in generate the "Index Pulse" for ECU start sending all the appropriate signals to deliver the fuel and spark timing. You probably could not get the motor spin enough times or the battery voltage was “Too Low” for all the electronics to function correctly. :eek:
 
Don't remember if I've already posted about this, so sorry if it's a rehash.

I installed a Gorilla bike alarm and it actually works pretty well. Even installed a rocker switch in the frunk so I could depower the alarm if the bike had to sit for an extended period. Left the alarm on/armed in the garage and the battery was stone dead in less than a week. Hooking up a battery charger made me realize how difficult it would be to jump the bike, and it being a DCT meant I couldn't even push-start it if I had wanted to. SO I searched around and found these:

2-Piece Motorcycle Jumper Cables

I have the whip end terminating in the frunk. I use it like the Honda 12V outlet, but it is un-fused power. Not a big deal so long as you fuse the whatever you plug into it. I haven't had to jump the bike with these cables yet, but I'm fairly sure they work just fine. Here's a demo:

Video 2 of E-Z Jump MC Jumper cable system - YouTube
 
These newer bikes with Fuel Injection have bunch of sensors, such as crankshaft positioning sensor. The motor must spin a full revolution in generate the "Index Pulse" for ECU start sending all the appropriate signals to deliver the fuel and spark timing. You probably could not get the motor spin enough times or the battery voltage was “Too Low” for all the electronics to function correctly. :eek:

You might think that, but there are exceptions. Modern motocross bikes can be electronic fuel injected, have no battery, and start with a kick starter.
 
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You might think that, but there are exceptions. Modern motocross bikes can be electronic fuel injected, have no battery, and start with a kick starter.
Sounds a lot like an "Energy Transfer System". I think that Triumph had one back in the late 60's or early 70's.

:confused: Triumph had batteryless EFI in the late '60s or early '70s?
 
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I'm out of touch on these things but if I remember well an alternator needs a minimum amount of electrical power to energise it before it can generate power itself - different from a dynamo or magneto. If your battery is completely dead then bump starting won't work because there will be nothing generating power to create a spark (or power electronic injection). I don't know how the batteryless bikes are powered, never had one but there must be several options for creating start up power. Certainly with DCT you have limited options to get going with a dead or weak battery.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 
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