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BRAKES DONE AT 10,000 MILES !!! Was it something I did?!?

Jay Fridays,
I don't remember seeing any mention of it in this thread, and I don't have the DCT model, so I've got a few questions. First I believe you have the DCT with ABS. Doesn't that model also have linked brakes? I think the Honda system links the rear brakes to 1 set of pads on the front brake. If yours is set up that way and the reason for the rear pad replacement is just really heavy use of the rear brake pedal, I wonder if the front pads that are linked to the rear are also worn out. Did the mechanic check the linked front pads? If the system works the way I think it does, you could possibly have 2 sets of front brake pads in great shape and one set that's worn down.

Just wondering,
Bob
 
Bob, good thought but I don't think it works quite that way. The bike has one pad set (pair) on the rear, and one pad set (pair) on the front. The linked brake three piston caliper operates on just one pair of pads. True, one front piston is actuated by the rear pedal, but it applies pressure to the same pair of pads as the other two front pistons.

Greg
 
670cc said:
Bob, good thought but I don't think it works quite that way. The bike has one pad set (pair) on the rear, and one pad set (pair) on the front. The linked brake three piston caliper operates on just one pair of pads. True, one front piston is actuated by the rear pedal, but it applies pressure to the same pair of pads as the other two front pistons.

Greg
Click to expand...

That's right - there are three pistons on the front CABS caliper. One is operated by the brake pedal and the other two by the front brake lever. I can't be sure but it feels like the brake pedal has bias first towards the rear brake, then the harder you press the more it applies the front brake. Whatever the case, the CABS only applies modest pressure on the front caliper - the main braking effect comes from using the front brake lever. The feel and effectiveness of the front brake is very good. I've never locked the brakes yet but the front gives a huge amount of stopping power and is well complemented by the CABS, rear brake feels soft but helps balance the bike as well as adding to front brake effect.
 
I always used the rear to start my braking, then apply my fronts.
Now, You guys are telling me I should use my front to apply breaking and only use rear for control.

I will try to use this technique.

ken
 
Greg and Chris,
Thanks for the explanation. I had somehow gotten it in my head that the linked system used a separate piston and pad set up front.

Bob
 
kjang said:
I always used the rear to start my braking, then apply my fronts.
Now, You guys are telling me I should use my front to apply breaking and only use rear for control.

I will try to use this technique.

ken
Click to expand...

When I was learning there was no doubt - we were taught to use front brake as main stopper and rear brake was basically to stop the back of the bike overtaking the front. In recent years I've heard people talk about starting braking with back brake, which supposedly starts to load the front of the bike already and reduces the chance of locking the front brake by applying the brake too hard whilst there's still only half the bikes weight on the front wheel. Still the front brake is the one that does the majority of stopping.

I'm not even going to try that. I've got an ABS bike and nearly 40 years of practice in favour of using the front brake and the back brake simultaneously. I'm also not convinced of the truth of the argument - any other vehicle has an integrated brake system in which there's a bias setting to apply about 70% of the brake force to the front wheel the moment the driver touches the brake pedal.

For me front brake is main stopper and back brake control & balance.

That changes only on very slippery surfaces, when front brake can be simply too much and lock the wheel instantly (on a non ABS bike).
 
In my MSF class they taught us for emergency braking to start hard on back brake and let up as weight transfers to front wheel. Start lighter on front and progressively harder as the wheel gets more weight on it. Using both properly will yield the shortest stopping distance in an emergency. Haven't read it in awhile, but my recollection is Profecient Motorcycling preaches to be in habit of using both.

Yes front brake provides most of power but back brake even if just 20% as suggested still reduces stopping distance by 20%. That improves my odds in an emergency and with my abs probability of locking up minimal.

Frequent practicing of emergency braking is also a good idea.

With my linked abs, I find my rear brake lever has significant stopping power as it uses some of front too.
 
When I was in msf class, on the emergency braking part. I tend to jam on the rear brake and go into a skid. After some practice, I tend to not jam it so hard.
If I recall, the msf class recommended using BOTH rear and front at the same time to brake.

Ken
 
kjang said:
When I was in msf class, on the emergency braking part. I tend to jam on the rear brake and go into a skid. After some practice, I tend to not jam it so hard.
If I recall, the msf class recommended using BOTH rear and front at the same time to brake.

Ken
Click to expand...

Well, ya. The DMV Motorcycle handbook ALSO says to use both equally 50/50. Is this what you are saying? 50/50?

It definitely feels like it's stopping safer. And when I use my front brakes only, it feels like I'm killing the front brakes....
 
"Proficient Motorcyclist" states to use both, but clarifies very blatantly that FRONT brake is the important one and should be your "weapon of choice" in any breaking situation first.

To simplify things and get an example from real life (of course not disregarding any scientific calculations, theories etc) let me ask a simple question here:

Did anyone of you made actually a stoppie on your NC700X?

(I've trained testing emergency braking, squeezed front break really hard engaging ABS immediately, but never... ever... ever been close to lift the rear wheel in the air)
 
dduelin said:
Sorry I do not have a DCT to compare but last brake pad check I had at least 60% pad left at 14,000 miles.
Click to expand...
How does one check that? I've read through the service manual, and all I can find is how to replace, not how to know what % you're at.
 
PPWW said:
"Proficient Motorcyclist" states to use both, but clarifies very blatantly that FRONT brake is the important one and should be your "weapon of choice" in any breaking situation first.

To simplify things and get an example from real life (of course not disregarding any scientific calculations, theories etc) let me ask a simple question here:

Did anyone of you made actually a stoppie on your NC700X?

(I've trained testing emergency braking, squeezed front break really hard engaging ABS immediately, but never... ever... ever been close to lift the rear wheel in the air)
Click to expand...

Well if you have ABS it will be REALLY hard to get the rear wheel up, thats exactly the purpose of abs after all! Lol


Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2
 
TCUguy said:
Well if you have ABS it will be REALLY hard to get the rear wheel up, thats exactly the purpose of abs after all! Lol

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

Jeez... thanks for the hint! :p

Now... to the point... as I can see you have a non-DCT version... an answer to the question maybe? :cool:
 
PPWW said:

Did anyone of you made actually a stoppie on your NC700X?
Click to expand...


I did a hard stop for a stop sign/cross walk that was hidden behind other signs/trees etc. and kinda snuck up on me (I swear the city doesn't fix it just so they can ticket people who run the sign because it's obstructed, and I'm on that road so rarely I never remember it's there.) I'm not entirely sure if the back tire came off the ground, but it felt extremely loose... like it was floating... might have just been the suspension lightening way up in the rear...

I suspect it's possible... but I'm not going to try to find out.
 
Well... I haven't replaced the pad yet (cause I'm financially challanged at the moment). But I will ASAP. For the time being, I am really working on my front braking skills.....lol

 
Has anyone mentioned engine braking in this thread. Just start hitting the down gear button with left thumb until you feel the engine braking the rear wheel. As you slow down keep down shifting. Cuts out a lot of wear on both brakes and could not be simpler than with DCT. Easy to get below 10 mph with no braking if you don't wait to the last minute for downshifting.
 
going for my 8 k soon so i'll let you know but i only use my back break when i'm stopping or in the wet with the front but mostly i use engine braking and a touch of front brake
 
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