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Battery

HaChayalBoded

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Hey guys, anyone fit a battery that's larger than a 12s? Friend of mine fried his and his bike isn't in front of me at the moment but if I recall he had some extra height in his battery box.
 
Fitting a larger than standard battery is not a solution for a dead battery. Find out what caused the battery to die prematurely and avoid repeating that situation.
 
Wanting to fit a larger battery in place of the OEM isn't to "fix" anything, it's simply to have a larger battery with a higher Ah rating and for more CCA (we're in NY, it gets cold here).

As to the reasoning his battery died, I think he must have just left his accessories on one too many times, but his bike is a 2012 so the battery might be from 2011, 4 years on an original battery isn't too bad of an issue.

I did however notice that a YTZ14s has the same dimensions as a YTZ12s so we'll go for the 14 instead of the 12.
 
The amps are very important! Some times the amps will fry everthing, some times just somethings, and some times nothing. I can not explain why, but I do know what I have seen as a Honda dealer over the years. Seen folks fry every thing all the way to the tail light bulb jumpiing off a car, and I have had to replace every electric componet on the bike. More times than anything, the starter solenod saves the day, by frying first, and no more juice gets though. Just replace starter solenod, but now in CDI unit on most bikes. Also see folks that have no problems at all jumping off a car. Like I said, "I can not explain WHY".
 
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Also see folks that have no problems at all jumping off a car. Like I said, "I can not explain WHY".

I'll take a stab at it.

It is the way and the order in which they hooked up the jumper cables.
Would be a lot of long interviews with the interviewees not agreeing along with some head scratching. Memories being what they are......
 
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The amps are very important! Some times the amps will fry everthing, some times just somethings, and some times nothing. I can not explain why, but I do know what I have seen as a Honda dealer over the years. Seen folks fry every thing all the way to the tail light bulb jumpiing off a car, and I have had to replace every electric componet on the bike. More times than anything, the starter solenod saves the day, by frying first, and no more juice gets though. Just replace starter solenod, but now in CDI unit on most bikes. Also see folks that have no problems at all jumping off a car. Like I said, "I can not explain WHY".

I can certainly explain to you how the electrical system of your average motorcycle functions as well as to how one may fry it's circuity. But that is neither her nor there.


I have been working on motorcycles for the better part of 25 years, as well as having a background in electrical engineering.

As to you being a dealer for 30 years and seeing it happen but not knowing why, well, if I were a dealer and someone came in with those issues my first question would probably be what happened. But I'll tell you if every electrical system in a single bike was really friend, and I mean everything to the tail light bulb as you say it could only happen if someone connected it to a vehicle with either an extreme high output alternator or a vehicle that runs on significantly more than 12v (some trucks, some newer BMWs) and\or the polarity was reveresed at the time.


My question was simply how much extra room is in the battery box?. Does it have any extra height?. Oy Vey Next time I'll just go measure it.
 
I can certainly explain to you how the electrical system of your average motorcycle functions as well as to how one may fry it's circuity. But that is neither her nor there.


I have been working on motorcycles for the better part of 25 years, as well as having a background in electrical engineering.

As to you being a dealer for 30 years and seeing it happen but not knowing why, well, if I were a dealer and someone came in with those issues my first question would probably be what happened. But I'll tell you if every electrical system in a single bike was really friend, and I mean everything to the tail light bulb as you say it could only happen if someone connected it to a vehicle with either an extreme high output alternator or a vehicle that runs on significantly more than 12v (some trucks, some newer BMWs) and\or the polarity was reveresed at the time.


My question was simply how much extra room is in the battery box?. Does it have any extra height?. Oy Vey Next time I'll just go measure it.



Unfortunately, I think the key words that sort of stuck out more than the rest were: "battery", and "fried", lol.

I can see how a simple question can veer off into how many angels can dance on the head of a pin, and end up being a source of teeth grinding frustration, rather than a: "No, there is X inches of clearance from the top of the OEM battery to the underside of the compartment, and a taller battery probably wouldn't allow room for the positive cable attachment, or the rubber tie down strap to be easily undone" type of answer.

Apologies if you were a bit peeved with the responses mate, but they meant well, even if not answering your specific needs.
 
Unfortunately, I think the key words that sort of stuck out more than the rest were: "battery", and "fried", lol.

I can see how a simple question can veer off into how many angels can dance on the head of a pin, and end up being a source of teeth grinding frustration, rather than a: "No, there is X inches of clearance from the top of the OEM battery to the underside of the compartment, and a taller battery probably wouldn't allow room for the positive cable attachment, or the rubber tie down strap to be easily undone" type of answer.

Apologies if you were a bit peeved with the responses mate, but they meant well, even if not answering your specific needs.

No, worries, I probably should have asked on ADV.

But I do find it interesting that a YTZ12s and a YTZ14s have the same exact size specs, but with a slight weight difference. If they use the same size casing I can't see the purpose of even still offering a 12.

Pretty sure the 12 is the OEM size, no reason not to go for the 14 if the size is the same. You gain a teensy bit more Amp Hours but get a 10% increase in cold cranking amps.
 
No, worries, I probably should have asked on ADV.

But I do find it interesting that a YTZ12s and a YTZ14s have the same exact size specs, but with a slight weight difference. If they use the same size casing I can't see the purpose of even still offering a 12.

Pretty sure the 12 is the OEM size, no reason not to go for the 14 if the size is the same. You gain a teensy bit more Amp Hours but get a 10% increase in cold cranking amps.

Just like gas tanks ( I has fetish, :eek:) I always like the idea of as big a battery as I can stuff in a bike; barring a racing or uber lightweight particular requirement, too.

I would definitely go for the 14, when/if my battery goes kaput! :D
 
Just like gas tanks ( I has fetish, :eek:) I always like the idea of as big a battery as I can stuff in a bike; barring a racing or uber lightweight particular requirement, too.

I would definitely go for the 14, when/if my battery goes kaput! :D

I'm the same way with big tanks, I routinely do a lot of cross country riding.

My old ACE tourer used a 7.3 gallon Valkyrie tank that I had welded up to fit the bike.

I bought a used concours rally bike wreck only because it had a 4 gallon taildragger auxiliary tank (which will soon be mounted to mine) to augment my already monstrous 7.5 gallon tank.

In that ride I mounted a 24Ah battery.
 
I pulled this from another forum where the same question was asked. I have no proof that it's current data or accurate, but the difference in specs looks pretty insignificant. Reliability difference is an unknown, but it looks like the 14s has more stuff packed in the same size case. Maybe the OEM 12s was chosen just to save a few pennies; maybe the lower density is more reliable.

Battery Family: YTZ Factory Activated, Maintenance Free
Battery Type: YTZ12S
Voltage: 12
Capacity (Amp. Hrs.): 11
Dimensions: 6" x 3 7/16" x 4 3/8"
Weight: 8.1 lbs.
Metric Dimensions: 150mm x 87mm x 110mm
Metric Weight: 3.7 kg
Polarity:
Acid Volume: N/A
Charging Current (Amps.): 1.1
C.C.A.: 210
__________________________________________________ _
Battery Family: YTZ Factory Activated, Maintenance Free
Battery Type: YTZ14S
Voltage: 12
Capacity (Amp. Hrs.): 11.2
Dimensions: 6" x 3 7/16" x 4 3/8"
Weight: 8.6 lbs.
Metric Dimensions: 150mm x 87mm x 110mm
Metric Weight: 3.9 kg
Polarity:
Acid Volume: N/A
Charging Current (Amps.): 1.1
C.C.A.: 230

It's nice to know there is an option with the 14s. I think the 12s seems to be overpriced relative to other battery sizes, but maybe they're just all overpriced.
 
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YTZ14S offers some more CCAs... More CCAs for bigger engines, engines that need more power to start in general. Check Yuasa's catalogue. YTZ14S is the favorite of many 1000cc+ engines

Also more CCAs means more (the little increase in weight) and thinner Pb plates. Thinner plates may make the battery stronger but probably less reliable because sulfation will deteriorate them faster...

IMHO, there is no reason to jump to YTZ14S...

An 'upgrade' would be an Odyssey but I think they don't have a battery that can fit in NC's tray,
and if you need something really impressive go for an LFP BUT forget about manufactures' arbitrarily Pb Equivalent Ah/CCA and look for the real Ah. It must as close to 11 Ah...

(CCA is meaningless with LFP...).
 
The last time we did the jump start thing..........it was disaster........with a boat load of bad info. Let's try not to repeat that .......;)

Let's start with the amps are not going to fry anything.
Therapy is on the right track........reverse polarity is the number 1 way stuff gets fried.


http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-technical/3399-battery-charging-new.html?highlight=Jump+start

HOLY MACKEREL!!
That was a great read.
I am glad I know enough to weed out what not to do.
 
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