Adding Additional Driving lights - where and which switchable power lead?!

[SleepyC]

So I'm looking at several months of limited extra time to be in the garage tearing my bike apart. (I am adding a pipe and possibly some panniers soon.. ) BUT I really want to add a set of LED drivings to my Light bar.
I think I can squeak the + and - wires in through the front of the bike and get them near the battery, but I'm wondering how hard it is to find the wires I would need to attach to the switched power.

I like the old school look of the PIAA 510's (and affordability) so I am looking at their wiring diagram.



I have read several posts here on the forum about hooking the relay switch up to the either Green or Blue headlight wore on the NC.
SO.. I guess my question REALLY is, where are these wires accessible? Is it hard to get to then?
And which wire is what?

Also, I was thinking I would like to have them come on with my normal headlight as additional driving lights, but would still like the ability to turn them off or on at noght no matter what lamp I'm running (H/L)

Any ideas on what switched power I could run for that?

Thanks in advance!

 

[rymech]

Hey Sleepy, Honda includes a plug for factory accessories that is really easy to tap into yourself. You will need to order the option subharness and relay kit that Honda lists under accessories for your year. Essentially all you have to do is remove some fairings, locate the option plug (I'll try and get a picture), and insert the relay and fuse and connect the pigtail you order (subharness). From there you deal with a few wire colors I think brown is a switched wire and green is ground. Basically the subharness breaks up the switched power from the relay and it terminates in about 3 different plugs with Honda's special connector. I cut off a plug and used some insulated quick disconnects to connect my heated hand grips.

This is a really great option for an easy switched power accessory. Some guys here wire in their own power distribution boxes for big electrical loads but the factory will do fine for a few things.

If you are trying to wire it to your headlight switch you can still run the main power through the factory relay and just tap your relay's control circuit into the high beam wire.

 

[SleepyC]

Hey Sleepy, Honda includes a plug for factory accessories that is really easy to tap into yourself. You will need to order the option subharness and relay kit that Honda lists under accessories for your year. Essentially all you have to do is remove some fairings, locate the option plug (I'll try and get a picture), and insert the relay and fuse and connect the pigtail you order (subharness). From there you deal with a few wire colors I think brown is a switched wire and green is ground. Basically the subharness breaks up the switched power from the relay and it terminates in about 3 different plugs with Honda's special connector. I cut off a plug and used some insulated quick disconnects to connect my heated hand grips.

This is a really great option for an easy switched power accessory. Some guys here wire in their own power distribution boxes for big electrical loads but the factory will do fine for a few things.

If you are trying to wire it to your headlight switch you can still run the main power through the factory relay and just tap your relay's control circuit into the high beam wire.

Good info.. looking up that pigtail at lunch!

 

[pprior]

Be aware that certain years (I think 2014+) do not have switchable high beam wire in the harness. There are lots of threads on this.


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[SleepyC]

OK.. if I am lazy for now, could I get the PIAA's, run the + and - to the batt and the switched power from the PIAA harness to my headlight lead? That way the PIAA's would still shut off with IGN, but I coudl also control them with their own switch. no? I just don't have the time to take all the panels off necessary to install the other harnesses. And I am not scared of mechanic work (tore down many stunt bikes in my old stupid days), just have to rationalize my time in the garage vs riding vs work and family. with a 3 year old and a few older kids too much time in the garage get's me in trouble with the MRS. And as anyone that is over 40 with kids knows an unhappy wife means no motorcycle time.

 

[ld_rider]

I like the old school look of the PIAA 510's (and affordability)

I don't know if you are sold on the PIAA 510's but I would consider a set of LED driving lamps instead. The challenge with the PIAAs is their current draw of 110 watts and their pale yellow light. I say "pale yellow" because compared to a correctly designed LED driving lamp they look like candles, yet they draw at least 2x the current of a LED.

I ran a pair of PIAA 910's for a few years (100 watts each, 200 total) on my Gold Wing and find that the newer LEDs are measurably better in both light output, quality of the light and of course current draw. If you buy a high quality LED driving lamp you will also get a decent, narrow driving beam (which the cheap LEDs won't have). Not to mention that you will be replacing bulbs a lot more often in the PIAAs compared to the LEDs

My NC has a pair of Clearwater Krista lamps installed and I am very happy with the result. The current draw is only 36 watts (each) on high, which will turn night into day and are so bright that I seldom use it on that setting. Seriously. They are wired to a variable dimmer so I can regulate the intensity from low to uber high and everything in between otherwise I could only use them when the road is empty.

My Gold Wing had a 1.1 kilowatt alternator and could handle the loads fine....the NC? Not so much since I have other electronics onboard.

You mentioned affordability and I get that....Good LED driving lamps don't have to be as expensive as the Clearwaters, but a robust, well designed LED driving lamp will cost you more than the old school (and old technology) PIAAs...BUT if that isn't in the cards, the PIAAs will be a huge improvement over the stock NC candle, that is for sure!

EDIT: I think I wired the trigger on my PIAAs to the taillamp wire which was easy to get to.

 

[rymech]

OK.. if I am lazy for now, could I get the PIAA's, run the + and - to the batt and the switched power from the PIAA harness to my headlight lead? That way the PIAA's would still shut off with IGN, but I coudl also control them with their own switch. no? I just don't have the time to take all the panels off necessary to install the other harnesses. And I am not scared of mechanic work (tore down many stunt bikes in my old stupid days), just have to rationalize my time in the garage vs riding vs work and family. with a 3 year old and a few older kids too much time in the garage get's me in trouble with the MRS. And as anyone that is over 40 with kids knows an unhappy wife means no motorcycle time.

Short answer, yes.

Keep in mind that you still have mount the relay and not only find the wires but tap them and then run the new battery wires. At that point you will have the same amount of panels removed and twice the wiring. I hooked up my heated grips last week in about an hour and a half. My biggest hurdle was waiting for specialty Honda hardware (I'm impatient) but it was WAY worth it in the long run.

Maximize your time in the garage by watching a few YouTube videos on getting those panels off. Finding and remembering where all the screws and pins went was difficult since it came apart so quickly and easily. Some members have posted YouTube videos using this factory option harness and they explain everything very well.

Here is a picture from the shop manual, I found my plug in a little storage receptacle in the bottom left of my frunk under the left panel and seat.

And here is a link to the video I found most helpful in dealing with the factory harness. YouTube

I won't judge if you choose the quick and dirty route! We all do it - I just think you would have more time and effort in the "custom" scenario.

 

[MZ5]

I have PIAA LP530s on mine. The pattern is absolutely outstanding, though they're more blue than I'd like. I use the Honda factory option harness to trigger a relay, which powers the lights directly off of a (fused, of course) battery connection. I like this because I'm not pulling any extra current through the high-beam switch, even if it is only a couple or three amps for LEDs.

 

[SleepyC]

Fast is never good... is it... Rats.
I'll look more into the LED's... the old school PIAA round grilled look just holds a soft spot for me as they look like the adventure bike lights from yesteryear and the Baja off road bikes...

But I'm doing more research.. thanks guys.

 

[SleepyC]

Hmmmm.

This may solve my issues..
Straight to teh BATT.. included switch, each light has it's own controll switch.
Looks pretty bad ***.

NiteRider Bike Lights

 

[supertux1]

The 2016 has the high beam (a blue wire) in the option harness.

I do all my custom wiring off the option harness the way Honda intended and have never spliced anything into the main wiring.

I used Positap connectors for the high beam and ignition-on, tapped into the main connector on the option harness.

These low-power circuits provide the signal to my Denali lights for low beam and high beam, signals only, the main power comes through a direct (fused) connection to the battery.

The high-beam part my Denali DX controller box is busted though, (signal present all they way up to the output connector) so have an email into them for that.
It looks like it's all just 12V so may replace with two trusty relays.

 

[AsureDawn]

Hmmmm.

This may solve my issues..
Straight to teh BATT.. included switch, each light has it's own controll switch.
Looks pretty bad ***.

NiteRider Bike Lights

Those look pretty neat.
If you're still thinking about going the PIAA route, you could wire a small switch between the battery and the relay which would allow you to manually turn it off and on until you get around to pulling the plastics.

 

[rymech]

If you're really stuck for time just run two wires and a switch right off the battery! Make sure you fuse the wires for the wire's capacity and size the wire to just exceed the expected load. I like a good Jerry Rig setup that "just works". Keep us updated!

Those niterider lights look sweet!


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[MZ5]

Fast is never good... is it... Rats.
I'll look more into the LED's... the old school PIAA round grilled look just holds a soft spot for me as they look like the adventure bike lights from yesteryear and the Baja off road bikes...

But I'm doing more research.. thanks guys.

The PIAA LEDs retain that look, FWIW.
The night riders look nice, too, though with that name I would expect a red LED strip that goes back and forth sideways. ;-)

 

[Old Can Ride]

When on the open road for days on end, things happen. When the light goes out, where do you find a LED replacement light when on the road. Yes, the LED is a better light, but I can get the light bulb at WalMart for a halogen bulb.

 

[SleepyC]

When on the open road for days on end, things happen. When the light goes out, where do you find a LED replacement light when on the road. Yes, the LED is a better light, but I can get the light bulb at WalMart for a halogen bulb.

I found a deal on the PIAA 510 Ultra white for $100 new in box. Had to do it. (Plus that big old round look.. I'm a sucker for nostalgia.)
And I agree, H3 bulbs can be had anywhere...

 

[lue42]

How about this... I'm looking at it for lights as well (also, power lead for GPS, phone, etc) and possibly a camera (the K1 system maybe).

INNOVV Motorcycle Camera | Motorcycle Dashcam | Motorcycle DVR

Something like this for the switches...?
Bar Switches for Motorcycles - PMR Components | Pashnit Moto

 

[rymech]

I found a deal on the PIAA 510 Ultra white for $100 new in box. Had to do it. (Plus that big old round look.. I'm a sucker for nostalgia.)
And I agree, H3 bulbs can be had anywhere...

The old styles of lights are always a classic, that was the main reason I got my first bike - a 1984 interceptor. Big square headlight.