• A few people have been scammed on the site, Only use paypal to pay for items for sale by other members. If they will not use paypal, its likely a scam NEVER SEND E-TRANSFERS OF ANY KIND.

6000km on the NC750X DCT and not very happy.

So you guys don't find your DCT's shifting a little rough under acceleration when cold? as it warms up it smooths out so didn't think it would be chain related.

I had this exact problem until I recalibrated the DCT gearbox (the DDDND sequence thing). You need to do this after an oil change anyway because of the wet clutch and different oil characteristics. Remember to perform it when the engine is nice and warm. Also I've read that the DCT ECU in the 2016/17 tries to learn your riding style and it gets a bit confused if one day, you suddenly start riding it like you stole it.

After a DCT calibration, no more lumpiness in the acceleration when cold!
 
I don't know about this DCT calibration thing but I learned long ago to ignore "problems" in a machine of any sort until it is at operating temperature.
Same reason planes don't just start up and take off.
Give it a bit. (less for me in Florida :)).
 
The procedure is as follows:

1. Fully warm the engine to normal operating temperature.

2. Make sure that the stop/run switch is in the 'run' position and then turn on the ignition switch while holding down the 'D' shift switch on the right handlebar. Hold down the 'D' switch until the MIL (engine icon) goes off. You should see the outline of the the gear selector box on the LCD display but it should be empty (no D or S, no gear shown).

3. Operate the shift selector switch as follows (one push for each): D-D-N-D-N . After this is done 'D' and 'S' should show in the gear indicator box, along with a '-' sign in the center flashing at approx. 2 second intervals. (If you see an 'L' in the display the engine is not warm enough, if so then shut off the ignition, start the bike and bring it up to normal operating temperature, shut it off, and start again at Step 2.)

4. Start the engine and let it idle. Do not touch the throttle. The calibration is complete when the D and S indicators disappear. Shut off the engine and the calibration process is complete. (If the '-' starts blinking rapidly at 1/2 second intervals then the calibration process failed, shut of the ignition and repeat from Step 2.)
 
The only reason for DCT calibration procedure is if the ECU is changed. For anything else it's a placebo.
 
thank you - I will try to reset and report back if anything changes in smoothness. one guy here said it did help for him and brought it back like when it was new and that it is also recommended at oil changes.
 
It seems to have worked !!! My transmission is again so smooth !

I'll monitor more and see how it goes but if this works I highly recommend a dct reset twice per season when temperatures rise and fall again near end of summer and also at oil changes!

Just seems to me that this transmission is very picky about the oil viscosity and somehow adjusts to it and the viscosity may differ slightly in warm vs cool temps
 
It seems to have worked !!! My transmission is again so smooth !

I'll monitor more and see how it goes but if this works I highly recommend a dct reset twice per season when temperatures rise and fall again near end of summer and also at oil changes!

Just seems to me that this transmission is very picky about the oil viscosity and somehow adjusts to it and the viscosity may differ slightly in warm vs cool temps

-----------

OK UPDATE: Today was colder so I could feel the jerkiness there still, I do believe though that it does somehow help a little but if the oil is cold it will be rougher... I'm hoping that the smoothness will be back much more when I change the oil at 12K.
 
I've read through the post trail and can't see anywhere where you might have mentioned which "S" mode you're shifting to.

S1,2 & 3 are a lot different to each other. I apologise if I've missed this point somewhere.
 
I've read through the post trail and can't see anywhere where you might have mentioned which "S" mode you're shifting to.

S1,2 & 3 are a lot different to each other. I apologise if I've missed this point somewhere.

The thread was started in 2015. In 2015, there was only S and D modes. There was no S1, S2, or S3. Just plain old S.
 
The thread was started in 2015. In 2015, there was only S and D modes. There was no S1, S2, or S3. Just plain old S.

I am also considering buying a NC with DCT and my main (only) concern is that it might seem slow to me. I know it’s very subjective as one mans ‘fast’ might be another person ‘not fast’. My last bike was a Kawasaki 750/4 (ZR7s) and that was plenty fast enough. I don’t expect or need something ultra fast and am more interested in comfortable/economical touring but I do occasionally like a bit of a ‘blast’. The other bike that I’m pondering in is a 650 V Strom.
I would appreciate some guidance from ‘those that know’.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I don't know about the VSTROM but this bike (the NC) has a lot of torque, it has certainly feels like it has more power than the BHP (54) show. I've had mine this year since April and I put 14K on her, the DCT is truly amazing. It will detect and learn (on every ride) your riding style even in D. If for example I start getting aggressive on the throttle for a few minutes then the engine will begin holding the RPM's high for quite a while, up to a minute or more even if I again start riding gently... it has a mind of its own :) the algorithms in the CPU are well done. Not to mention downhill and uphill engine RPM control, it's pretty neat. If you put it in S mode medium or high you'll get plenty of power (in my opinion). I also rode 2 up most of the summer.
 
I don't know about the VSTROM but this bike (the NC) has a lot of torque, it has certainly feels like it has more power than the BHP (54) show. I've had mine this year since April and I put 14K on her, the DCT is truly amazing. It will detect and learn (on every ride) your riding style even in D. If for example I start getting aggressive on the throttle for a few minutes then the engine will begin holding the RPM's high for quite a while, up to a minute or more even if I again start riding gently... it has a mind of its own [emoji4] the algorithms in the CPU are well done. Not to mention downhill and uphill engine RPM control, it's pretty neat. If you put it in S mode medium or high you'll get plenty of power (in my opinion). I also rode 2 up most of the summer.

That’s sounds very promising news. Thanks rmezei. In a country that seems to expect bike(& car) buyers NOT to test drive a potential new vehicle, the good people at Honda, Ubon, Thailand have offered me a test ride of a DCT Nc750x. I am very happy to get that message, so do I need to try out S 1,2 or 3 ??????????


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That’s sounds very promising news. Thanks rmezei. In a country that seems to expect bike(& car) buyers NOT to test drive a potential new vehicle, the good people at Honda, Ubon, Thailand have offered me a test ride of a DCT Nc750x. I am very happy to get that message, so do I need to try out S 1,2 or 3 ??????????

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Try them all! Unless you’re looking for a bike that will snap your neck or pull the bars from your grip, I bet you’ll find all the zip you need. And with all the triggers and buttons and modes to play with, I’ve found this bike to be more challenging and fun to ride, in order to ride it to its full potential, than a bike with a traditional clutch operation. I’ve owned a bunch of those. This one adds a new dimension that I really enjoy every time I go out on it. Best of luck!
 
Try them all! Unless you’re looking for a bike that will snap your neck or pull the bars from your grip, I bet you’ll find all the zip you need. And with all the triggers and buttons and modes to play with, I’ve found this bike to be more challenging and fun to ride, in order to ride it to its full potential, than a bike with a traditional clutch operation. I’ve owned a bunch of those. This one adds a new dimension that I really enjoy every time I go out on it. Best of luck!
I've owned a 700 DCT for a couple months and I'm just getting used to changing modes on the fly. No need to pick one mode and stick with it. With the S/D, A/M, and paddle shifters it's easy. You can even change S1,2,3 while coasting.
I like to think of D as a very economic cruise mode. And in S mode 6th is overdrive and rarely used except at highway speeds.
I enjoy the DCT. I can set and forget or control it as I need.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 
I have a question. I currently have a 2012 NC700x DCT with 30,000 Miles on it and I am contemplating a move to the 750 model when it comes out this summer. The question is, does anybody think I will feel the extra 75cc in terms of power and zip? Is it worth the money to make the move?
 
I have a question. I currently have a 2012 NC700x DCT with 30,000 Miles on it and I am contemplating a move to the 750 model when it comes out this summer. The question is, does anybody think I will feel the extra 75cc in terms of power and zip? Is it worth the money to make the move?

No one in the US is going to know the answer to this. Can you notice the difference of 3 HP? I believen that is all the basic difference in the US 700 and the US750 (we never had the de-tuned NC700 as Europe had). I believe our US NC700 are 51HP at the crank and the NC750 are 54HP at the crank.

In Europe, when riders began buying the NC750, stated they noticed a difference; but their NC700s were at least 10HP less at the crank than the US version of the NC700.
 
I have a question. I currently have a 2012 NC700x DCT with 30,000 Miles on it and I am contemplating a move to the 750 model when it comes out this summer. The question is, does anybody think I will feel the extra 75cc in terms of power and zip? Is it worth the money to make the move?
Even if it was worth it performance wise, I don't think it is because the 750 is geared taller and is incrementally heavier and I think 3 hp is lost in the translation, it wouldn't be worth it financially to me. The NC700X isn't and never will be a thrilling performance machine. I didn't buy two of them for that reason. Its sublime qualities lie elsewhere. I have a 2015 DCT with 25,000 miles.
 
Back
Top