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Commuting! Suzuki SV650 (naked) vs Honda NC750s

KevenBob

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Hello gentlemen,

I’m looking for a new (used) bike which will be used 50% commuting, 30% backroads, 20% highway.

My choice is now between a Suzuki SV650 (3rd gen) and the Honda NC750S (2014).

Both models would be manual, so no DCT.

Any difference between the comfort of those bikes? I know the NCS suspensions aren't as good as the X, but how is it compared to the SV? I live in Pothole City, aka Montreal.

Which one do you recommend and why?
 
The NC750S omitted the frunk storage compartment that the X model has. I think you will be happy with either bike. The Suzuki is well loved by many and has more power if that is important to you but we love our NC700/750s too. The power is adequate and the fuel economy and operating costs will be lower.
 
The NC750S omitted the frunk storage compartment that the X model has. I think you will be happy with either bike. The Suzuki is well loved by many and has more power if that is important to you but we love our NC700/750s too. The power is adequate and the fuel economy and operating costs will be lower.
The NC750S 100% has the frunk ! :)
 
They do!



...you just have to buy it as an accessory, it's a lot smaller, it's not lockable, and it's called a "tank bag."

That's pretty much the same thing, right?
LOL!:p;)
 
I can't speak for the NC, but I have a 3rd gen SV. I get 50 - 60 mpg depending how and where I ride. It's a great commuter and capable touring bike if set up correctly. I have a Givi adjustable windscreen and top box, soft bags, tank bag, dry bag and wired for GPS and heated vest. I agree it's not as good for strictly commuting, but significantly better for back roads and track days especially with a suspension upgrade.

 
There's a first gen 2002 SV650 Naked or Standard version for sale not too far from me. I've not rode one nor even seen one locally. But I was kinda wondering about the gas mileage but also the valve clearance check and what procedure might be. One place I read about it, the guy kinda walked you through it but really recommended to take it to a service center for the check and clearance adjustment since it uses the shims underneath the bucket system.
 
Yes the SV650 valves are shim under bucket like many (most?) other bikes. I haven't done the check yet on this bike (at 14k), but have checked and adjusted them on other shim under bucket bikes (ST1100 and ST1300). It's not hard if you've done it before - a little scary if not. It's all about what you're comfortable with and if you have a good mechanic to do the work if you'd rather not. I wish it had hydraulic lifters like my old Nighthawk that never needed adjustment!
 
There's a first gen 2002 SV650 Naked or Standard version for sale not too far from me. I've not rode one nor even seen one locally. But I was kinda wondering about the gas mileage but also the valve clearance check and what procedure might be. One place I read about it, the guy kinda walked you through it but really recommended to take it to a service center for the check and clearance adjustment since it uses the shims underneath the bucket system.
In my experience, the beauty of shim valve adjustment is the very long adjustment intervals. My Goldwing is nearing 92,000 miles, and the valves have never required adjustment. My gasoline car has an inline four with DOHC and shims. At 140,000 miles, no adjustment ever needed. I‘ll check it again at 200,000 miles. In contrast, the NC’s valves require more maintenance and attention.

Those are general comments. I know nothing about the SV650 valve specifics.
 
In my experience, the beauty of shim valve adjustment is the very long adjustment intervals. My Goldwing is nearing 92,000 miles, and the valves have never required adjustment. My gasoline car has an inline four with DOHC and shims. At 140,000 miles, no adjustment ever needed. I‘ll check it again at 200,000 miles. In contrast, the NC’s valves require more maintenance and attention.

Those are general comments. I know nothing about the SV650 valve specifics.
I agree regarding the adjustment intervals. I checked my ST1300 at 64k and 80k (currently 87k) and it didn't need adjustment either time. My ST1100 needed the exhaust valves adjusted which required removing the cams (which was a bit scary). The SV requires checking every 14k (currently around 11k). I'm hoping no adjustment is needed.
 
Thanks and you're right the shim valve check/adjustments mileage interval are usually pretty long. My '97 Yamaha Seca II has them specified for every 16k miles, which ends up being about every year and half or so, possibly because it's an air-cooled 4 cylinder.

Anyhow, some of the valves on my bike seems to need them adjusted about every other time or so. However, my bike has the shim on top of the bucket, therefore I can depress the bucket and change the shim without removing the cams.
 
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Spec on Yamaha valves are 26,000 miles. Honda's suggestion is shockingly low imo. My ST 1300 got checked at 50,000 all in spec and I sold it at 110,000. My NC is going to get a valve inspection next week at 43,000 but doubt it will need it. It runs fine, starts fine, gets the same mileage as when new, and makes no unusual noises. Stil,l I feel obligated to get them checked at least once lol
 
I checked my valves ( 2013 NC700X) after o bought it,used at 9800 miles. The original spec was 8000 mile checks, and I knew it had not been done.
Unlike the Ferret, mine needed 2 exhaust valves adjusted.
 
I checked my valves ( 2013 NC700X) after o bought it,used at 9800 miles. The original spec was 8000 mile checks, and I knew it had not been done.
Unlike the Ferret, mine needed 2 exhaust valves adjusted.
Mine may need adjustment too, I don't know yet. I'll know Friday. All I know is it starts fine, sounds fine, runs fine and gets the same gas mileage as it did when I bought it.

Were yours loose or tight? How much out of spec were they?
 
Mine may need adjustment too, I don't know yet. I'll know Friday. All I know is it starts fine, sounds fine, runs fine and gets the same gas mileage as it did when I bought it.

Were yours loose or tight? How much out of spec were they?

If I recall correctly, two exhaust valves were a hair ( .001-.002) tight. I mainly checked them because I was just getting to know the bike, and I already had it apart. Probably made no difference in performance or durability. Might have been that way from the factory.
They are very easy to check, similar to my old Airhead BMW’s.
 
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