Need Help 2016 NC700XD electrical gremlin

[ti_ti_ta]

I have a weird electrical gremlin in a 2016 NC700XD. Bike intermittently doesn't start. It lugs/losing power for a split second while idling or riding. The battery doesn't seem to be charging well either. Battery has been charged and tested and seems to be good. The turn signals don't blink at a regular interval.
I do have a 2nd fuse block I installed to power all extra accessories. USB Port, Heated Grips, Camera system. I've traced over my wires and I don't see anything making contact where it shouldn't, smashed, or stripped. I've taken the fuse block off the battery so none of the accessories are currently plugged in. Problem persists.

Any ideas?


EDIT: Bike also died at an intersection the last time I rode it. It did start back up however.

 

[670cc]

Ideas:
1) You could have a bad ignition key switch.
2) Does your second fuse block tie into or have a signal for switched power? If so, where did you make the connection(s)?
3) That the battery doesn’t “seem” to be charging, or battery “seems“ to be good is just plain guesswork. You need a voltmeter and the knowledge to use it if you want to know the quality and status of the battery and it’s charging. Without good voltage data and measurements, people sitting elsewhere at a computer would be hard pressed to offer meaningful help.

 

[ti_ti_ta]

Ideas:
1) You could have a bad ignition key switch.
2) Does your second fuse block tie into or have a signal for switched power? If so, where did you make the connection(s)?
3) That the battery doesn’t “seem” to be charging, or battery “seems“ to be good is just plain guesswork. You need a voltmeter and the knowledge to use it if you want to know the quality and status of the battery and it’s charging. Without good voltage data and measurements, people sitting elsewhere at a computer would be hard pressed to offer meaningful help.

1) Hope not. Sounds like a hard swap
2) It's taped into a pink wire with a blue stripe just above the battery. Honestly it's been so long since I've done it I don't remember what it is. Maybe it's the ignition wire....I'll hunt down my wiring diagram and check.
3) Battery is at 12.97 with bike off. 12.36 with ignition turned but bike not started. 14.25 with bike running. I also took the battery and had it load tested at a auto shop.

 

[lootzyan]

... Bike also died at an intersection the last time I rode it. It did start back up however.

When this happened was the combination meter (display) on or off?

 

[ti_ti_ta]

When this happened was the combination meter (display) on or off?

display stayed on the entire time.

 

[lootzyan]

display stayed on the entire time.

It looks like the ignition switch is good.
Correction: The ignition switch may be faulty if there is a momentary loss of electrical connection.
Here is a simplified wiring diagram of the ignition system. Refer to the complete wiring diagram for diagnostics. The entire copy is too large to display here.

 

[ti_ti_ta]

It looks like the ignition switch is good.
Here is a simplified wiring diagram of the ignition system. Refer to the complete wiring diagram for diagnostics. The entire copy is too large to display here.

View attachment 52919

I have the service manual so I have the complete diagrams.

 

[Zalm]

Ground cable ( “-” battery ) on the starter motor?

 

[ti_ti_ta]

Ground cable ( “-” battery ) on the starter motor?

All the cables are tight and not corroded.

 

[670cc]

If the engine died but the combination meter was still on, perhaps look into the handlebar kill switch or side stand switch. If the transmission is in drive mode, the side stand switch can kill the engine.

However, if in neutral and the bike won’t start, the side stand switch would not be suspect.

 

[ti_ti_ta]

If the engine died but the combination meter was still on, perhaps look into the handlebar kill switch or side stand switch. If the transmission is in drive mode, the side stand switch can kill the engine.

However, if in neutral and the bike won’t start, the side stand switch would not be suspect.

I haven't ran into it not starting except when the battery was too low so I charged it. I'll check out the kill switches later tonight but its nearing 100/F here.

 

[ti_ti_ta]

Okay so I cleaned out the kill switch for the side stand. Didn't seem like it was killing the bike anyway as it almost goes all the way to the ground before it kills the bike. I jiggled the handlebar one (idk if there is a real check...find where it plug ins and check with voltmeter?) and couldn't get it to kill the bike without it clicking over.
I did ride down the block and now it seems the issue is hiding...AKA intermittent as I didn't do anything really.

Could it be a stator issue? Bad gas? (not sure how this would affect the sporadic blinkers though...) I'm open to checking anything before I go buy ramps and drive it an hour to the dealership.

EDIT: Or maybe it was a terminal connection...I will try to ride a little farther tomorrow before work and report back.
EDIT 2: Glad I'm looking at this though...Looks like a new chain is also in order. I was planning on doing the rear tire soon anyway. So probably not taking that longer ride tomorrow.

 

[ST13Fred]

Strong battery health is paramount for proper electronics function on computer run vehicles.
(When the clock on my ST1300 would start indicating 1AM on startup, it was time for a new battery. It always started OK.)
When my 2017 DCT stopped holding charge, I switched to a much lighter (I call electronic as they have a circuit board) LiFePO4 battery, lithium-iron, I believe. A Smart Lithium Battery Charger is recommended.
Heavy lead acid batteries are dinosaurs, even though my 2023 Accord hybrid and many others, still use them.
IMO, added circuitry should be fused, dedicated directly off the battery without going into any existing circuits. I'm certainly no expert, but computers know when one touches any circuits.
Good luck with your gremlin issue.

 

[670cc]

3) Battery is at 12.97 with bike off. 12.36 with ignition turned but bike not started. 14.25 with bike running. I also took the battery and had it load tested at a auto shop.

A resting lead acid battery at 12.97 volts is quite high. Did you let it sit for 12 hours of so before taking that measurement?

 

[MZ5]

I may be missing your point or intent, 670cc, but an AGM or 'maintenance-free' battery is a (sub-type of) lead-acid battery. So, 12.97VDC is within the parameters on the chart you posted if the battery is a 'maintenance-free' (AGM) lead-acid.

 

[670cc]

I may be missing your point or intent, 670cc, but an AGM or 'maintenance-free' battery is a (sub-type of) lead-acid battery. So, 12.97VDC is within the parameters on the chart you posted if the battery is a 'maintenance-free' (AGM) lead-acid.

The chart be as it may, I have never even seen a brand new Yuasa YTZ battery show 12.97 volts open circuit, given the proper time to rest. So my point, which was admittedly quite unclear, is that the voltage measurement of 12.97 volts is likely meaningless as it suggests the proper resting period was not allowed.

If proper rest time was allowed, well then that’s a darn good battery.

 

[lootzyan]

...If proper rest time was allowed, well then that’s a darn good battery...

According to YUASA Technical Manual
"The surface charge needs to be removed before an accurate test for open circuit voltage can be performed.
To remove the surface charge, turn on the ignition key for about three minutes then turn it off.
Now let the battery sit for about 10 minutes.
This step is not necessary if the battery has been sitting for 1 hour after charging is complete".

 

[MZ5]

Do you recall where the chart came from, Greg? I'm simply curious at this point, whether it's from a source that may not have known or thought to include a note about 'resting' prior to voltage testing, or if it's from a battery company, or...
Thanks.

 

[670cc]

Do you recall where the chart came from, Greg? I'm simply curious at this point, whether it's from a source that may not have known or thought to include a note about 'resting' prior to voltage testing, or if it's from a battery company, or...
Thanks.

I don’t remember the source. I had the chart saved, I guess from a previous discussion. Some charts found on the internet say open circuit voltage or they note a resting time. I think it’s a assumed to be common knowledge that the “surface” charge needs to be dissipated before determining state of charge from voltage.

 

[lootzyan]

YUASA, in general, provides the same information in this chart for AGM batteries.