Vibration/pulsing at 50 - 55 MPH in 6th

[L.B.S.]

My NC and ST1300 both do it....if you really pay attention you can feel it in seat........NORMAL

NC has a lot of mechanical noise at idle the clutch thing is just one of those noises. normal
ST has cam gear whine noise at idle...normal

PS ..........oil made no difference in either bike and the ST has 25,000 miles.

Yup.

My CX500Turbo clutch made a heck of a racket at idle and would be all quiet with clutch pulled in right from day one, and I never once worried or had any problems with the clutch on that beast. I had to put new stators in it every 25,000 km's like clockwork (x4) but never a clutch hiccup, lol.

 

[cburn]

My NC and ST1300 both do it....if you really pay attention you can feel it in seat........NORMAL

NC has a lot of mechanical noise at idle the clutch thing is just one of those noises. normal
ST has cam gear whine noise at idle...normal

PS ..........oil made no difference in either bike and the ST has 25,000 miles.

Thanks for the reply man. Good to know.

 

[n30r3l0ad3d]

As I stated before in a previous post, I never use 6th gear unless I am going over 60 mph. I keep it in 5th most of the time, and it does not seem to effect my MPG either.

 

[Ralph]

The noise may go away when you pull in the clutch but it's not the clutch that makes the noise,
it's the gear box and pulling in the clutch disconnects it from the engine so it stops going round
and no noise, near every Japanese bike I have ever ridden does it to some extent.

 

[Old Can Ride]

Simple fix, Turn Your Radio On, and Ride!

 

[jangermann]

This is a clutch problem on the manual gear box versions!!
Try yourself, shift to 6 gear and run it about 2500-2900rpm, you will have the vibrations and knocking, then pull the clutch lever gently without disengage (just tighten the clutch cable) and the problem can almost be eliminated.

A quick fix would be to tighten the clutch cable so there is no free play on the lever, it works, but is not the right solution.

This also explains why the DCT version dont have this problem.

We are on page 39 regarding this issue, so this IS A PROBLEM.

The only right solutions is that Honda fixs this.

 

[showkey]

This is a clutch problem on the manual gear box versions!!
Try yourself, shift to 6 gear and run it about 2500-2900rpm, you will have the vibrations and knocking, then pull the clutch lever gently without disengage (just tighten the clutch cable) and the problem can almost be eliminated.

A quick fix would be to tighten the clutch cable so there is no free play on the lever, it works, but is not the right solution.

This also explains why the DTC version dont have this problem.

We are on page 39 regarding this issue, so this IS A PROBLEM.

The only right solutions is that Honda fixs this.

Number pages or comments does not qualify or quantify a preceived problem..........we had 16 pages on a dead battery, charge,replace or jump start.

You are correct .........Taking away the free play is a really bad idea........there is fine line between full clutch engagement and clutch slipping do to no free play causing partial engagement ( not to mention heat would change this free slightly).

By "riding" the clutch you could be taking the slack out of the primary gear set........which has merit except all my bikes past and present have some variation of this noise that is changed by clutch lever pressure being applied.

 

[jangermann]

Number pages or comments does not qualify or quantify a preceived problem..........we had 16 pages on a dead battery, charge,replace or jump start.

You are correct .........Taking away the free play is a really bad idea........there is fine line between full clutch engagement and clutch slipping do to no free play causing partial engagement ( not to mention heat would change this free slightly).

I totally agree. But it is still a clutch (Honda) problem!

 

[670cc]

This is a clutch problem on the manual gear box versions!!
Try yourself, shift to 6 gear and run it about 2500-2900rpm, you will have the vibrations and knocking, then pull the clutch lever gently without disengage (just tighten the clutch cable) and the problem can almost be eliminated.

A quick fix would be to tighten the clutch cable so there is no free play on the lever, it works, but is not the right solution.

This also explains why the DCT version dont have this problem.

We are on page 39 regarding this issue, so this IS A PROBLEM.

The only right solutions is that Honda fixs this.

By pulling the clutch cable slightly, could it by possible that it would allow the slightest amount of slip during the firing pulses? That slight slippage would even out the power pulses through the transmission and final drive, thus smoothing the power and minimizing the "thrumming".

My manual bike had the slightest hint of the thrumming for the first 1000 miles. Now it's gone.

And by the way, the thrumming problem has been reported on the DCT version, too.

Greg

 

[jangermann]

By pulling the clutch cable slightly, could it by possible that it would allow the slightest amount of slip during the firing pulses? That slight slippage would even out the power pulses through the transmission and final drive, thus smoothing he power and minimizing he "thrumming".

My manual bike had the slightest hint of the thrumming for the first 1000 miles. Now it's gone.

And by the way, the thrumming problem has been reported on the DCT version, too.

Greg

I know what you mean, but I am sure that there is no slip as i pull very light, just until I feel the slitest resistance.
When I do this i can feel the vibrations and knocking in the lever.
I am sure it is the clutch that shakes, knocks inside the motor in 6 gear at low rpm.

 

[jangermann]

I have contacted Honda regarding this issue.

 

[670cc]

I know what you mean, but I am sure that there is no slip as i pull very light, just until I feel the slitest resistance.
When I do this i can feel the vibrations and knocking in the lever.
I am sure it is the clutch that shakes, knocks inside the motor in 6 gear at low rpm.

Yep. It's a two cylinder engine. They do that.

Greg

 

[n30r3l0ad3d]

Try yourself, shift to 6 gear and run it about 2500-2900rpm, you will have the vibrations and knocking, then pull the clutch lever gently without disengage (just tighten the clutch cable) and the problem can almost be eliminated. This also explains why the DCT version dont have this problem.

Hold on there a minute before you go crying wolf on this one. This motor is a parallel twin motor. And, as with any twin cylinder engine they have an imbalanced firing action which causes vibration. Honda added a counter balance shaft to remedy this. Along with that counter balanced shaft, it has to turn other things like gears, clutches, etc or AKA rotating weight. This particular motor is only a 48 hp @ the rear wheel, so it's not a super motor by any means. Now, throw your weight on the bike, toss it in 6th gear (which is a really hard gear to pull) @ 2500 RPM and you will lug the motor. Lugging occurs when you begin overloading the engine to the point where the engine is not revving high enough to make sufficient power for the current gear / speed. 6th gear is awfully low, which is why it is smoother leaving the bike in 5th gear at 55mph. I never shift into 6th unless I am doing over 60 mph. As to your comment about pulling the clutch level slightly, yes it will "smooth" the lugging out. However all your doing is separating the clutch plates to allow some slippage, smoothing out the lugging while wearing your clutch out.

Best advice, keep it in 5th for cruising speeds around 55mph. Don't use 6th unless going over 60mph. As for DCT owners, I have heard leaving it in S mode might help.

 

[jangermann]

Thanks all for your comments to my "clutch" thing. I really appreciate it.

Maybe you think I am persistent but anyway:
I am sure that when i press the clutch there is no slip in the plates, I just press until i feel the slightest resistance.
Have any of you tried what I explain?

BTW. How many here can confirm that the problem disappear/get better after 1000 Miles?

 

[670cc]

BTW. How many here can confirm that the problem disappear/get better after 1000 Miles?

That this once vibrant thread more or less dried up over time suggests that the problem goes away as the NC700 gets some miles (kilometers) on it.

Greg

 

[Ralph]

It's a long stroke twin with a 270% crank and is very low revving, I would be surprised
if you could not feel the firing pulses, and if a little pressure on the clutch did not smooth
it out a bit, to someone like me that as mostly ridden singles and twins it feels smooth as silk
on the other hand someone that as only ridden 4's may not be able to live with it. Yours could
for some reason be worse than the norm or other riders just don't notice or ride round it.

 

[showkey]

July 2013 Cycle world did comparison test between the BMW R1200GS and the Yamaha Super T:

"Vibration is low on either bike, but they both have sweet and sour spots, depending on RPM: 72 MPH in sixth was brilliant on the GS Pand 74 was perfect on the Yamaha. Or was it the other way around."

So..........would it be a big surprise if the NC had sweet and sour spots??????????

 

[JamesD]

My NC700X has a sour spot that starts around 3600 rpm and gets worse as the rpm increases.
At 4000 rpm and up it would be very uncomfortable to ride for long periods without the foam hand grips the previous rider installed.

 

[barnsls]

Thanks all for your comments to my "clutch" thing. I really appreciate it.

Maybe you think I am persistent but anyway:
I am sure that when i press the clutch there is no slip in the plates, I just press until i feel the slightest resistance.
Have any of you tried what I explain?

BTW. How many here can confirm that the problem disappear/get better after 1000 Miles?

Hi Jangermann - I'm the original poster on this thread. I still have the bike and after 5,000 miles it still has the thrumming/pulsing problem between 50 & 55 mph. The clutch also continues to make the same pulsing sensation through the lever when fully engaged and, as you described, the pulsing at the lever goes away if you lightly pull on the lever (but don't do that continuously or you will probably bugger up the clutch). I've become resigned to the idea that I have a 'bad' bike but the bike is still pleasant to ride (other than at the problem speed range) and doesn't seem to be getting worse. The rattling from the clutch doesn't bother me much and I'd only be concerned about it if it seemed to be getting worse. Ignore all the comments about lugging the engine and 'all twins do that' - that’s just crap from people lucky enough to own bikes that don't have these problems. Good luck with your bike and if the dealer finds a solution to the problem please let us know.

Steve.

 

[wozza]

My NC700X has a sour spot that starts around 3600 rpm and gets worse as the rpm increases.
At 4000 rpm and up it would be very uncomfortable to ride for long periods without the foam hand grips the previous rider installed.

I'm surprised to read this as most people rate the NC700 as a smooth motor... Yes I get a bit of pulsing, but I don't find it annoying and I know there's absolutely nothing wrong with my bike......