How do I tighten my front brake cable?

EDIT: Ok so I guess there is no cable, I don't know much about this sort of thing I just know when this happens on my mountain bike there is a cable I can simply tighten which looks like how my clutch works but not the brake.

Just to be clear, the lever is not sticking or catching at all, whatever pulls or pushes it back to disengaged position is just not getting it all the way back out. It is fully disengaging the brakes, but the lever just has so much free play that it concerns me. I have to pull it in like an inch before the brakes start engaging and when I let go it doesn't even go back enough for the brake light switch to unclick sometimes.

I cannot find the answer to this via Google or in the manual.

Make sure the handle can move freely. Add wd40 or any other thin oil on the joint.

Unless you're talking about an old motorcycle/moped or bicycle. You will not have a cable. The NC certainly doesn't have one.

Yeah, it's hydraulic.

Oil on the pivot for sure. Grease is better, but requires disassembly. If that doesn't improve things, have it looked at.

Bert said:

Make sure the handle can move freely. Add wd40 or any other thin oil on the joint.

Unless you're talking about an old motorcycle/moped or bicycle. You will not have a cable. The NC certainly doesn't have one.

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maxwellian said:

Yeah, it's hydraulic.

Oil on the pivot for sure. Grease is better, but requires disassembly. If that doesn't improve things, have it looked at.

Click to expand...

It definitely moves freely and this is a brand new bike with only 3,000 miles. It is totally free and does not engage brakes until it is pulled in like an inch and the brake light switch has already been triggered. Maybe that is just normal? It just seems weird to me.

I've noticed that it is fairly tight when I first use it after it in the morning, but after I've pulled it in a couple times it is loosened up and I start flicking it back out because it is so loose.

Sounds like you're running out of brake fluid.

And then you're pumping air into the brake system which goes very easily and it feel like it has lost all force. Also in returning.

As said below. Get it fixed. (topped up if the above is happening)

I'm an avid mountain biker, motorcycle rider, and gear head. As mentioned above motorcycle brakes are hydraulic and what you described is mostly normal. Gov't standards are brake light switch must always engage prior to braking action. This is true for both front and rear brakes. Motorcycle brake operation is more similar to a typical automotive braking system than mountain bike except with separate master cylinders for front and rear on the cycle vs. a single, dual chamber master cylinder for autos. About 1" travel measured at the end of the brake lever is normal and you'll find a proportional amount of travel on autos as well. What isn't normal is that the brake lever (or brake pedal) should always return to the original position. If the brake pedal on an auto fails to return to normal the problem is typically in the master cylinder and we change those out. On a motorcycle there is always the possibility for sand or grit to enter the pivot point or even worse that the bike was dropped and brake lever is bent a bit. Remove the brake lever, check it with a straight edge, lubricate the pivot and re-install. if the problem persists the master cylinder must be replaced. Lastly, if you're new to motorcycles - welcome, ask lot's of questions - it's easier than finding out the hard way...

-Ride on, Saturday

It sounds to me like he simply needs to bleed his brakes. If the lever is "squishy" prior to affecting the brake function, that's abnormal. Some movement is normal, a lot is not. I'd check your pad thickness to the OEM spec (though if you have under 10k miles I'd be shocked if you need new ones), and I would bleed / flush the brake system. It shouldn't cost you much to have someone do it, if you are unable to.

Antarius said:

It sounds to me like he simply needs to bleed his brakes. If the lever is "squishy" prior to affecting the brake function, that's abnormal. Some movement is normal, a lot is not. I'd check your pad thickness to the OEM spec (though if you have under 10k miles I'd be shocked if you need new ones), and I would bleed / flush the brake system. It shouldn't cost you much to have someone do it, if you are unable to.

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Bingo, bleed the front brakes. If this does not work, and your bike is still under warranty, take it to the dealership to have the caliber rebuilt.

maxwellian said:

Yeah, it's hydraulic.

Oil on the pivot for sure. Grease is better, but requires disassembly. If that doesn't improve things, have it looked at.

Click to expand...

Dry lube is better. Grease, oil, and "oily" sprays (think WD) attract dirt and allows the dirt \ etc to cling.

Brand new and under 3k miles? Take it back to the dealer. You don't need to have this to even think about. Something's wrong, no matter whether it's low on fluid, needs bled, needs a new or rebuilt master cylinder, or what. Either something's broken or the dealer or someone didn't get it put together correctly. Take it back to them.