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RATS, Dropped it for the first time - any repair tips?

dog

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Well, it could have been worst. Sort of a "comedy of errors" on my part. Installed one of those duck-foot things to keep the side stand from sinking into the new asphalt parking lot at work, which significantly changes the center of gravity on the side stand. Parked it with the left side too close to my car due to limited space. Was removing my GIVI side cases which requires some pretty good lateral force while holding the release button down. Right side went fine, but couldn't get to the left without cutting the bike's front wheel to the right. That's where I blew it. I could do that BEFORE installing the duck-foot. It went over as soon as I started pushing the left side case in to release it. Was lucky the muffler hit dirt, but the rest of the bike landed on concrete. Mirror is loose, but I don't think it was damaged. So here's the main damage I have to deal with:

r-break-lever-s.jpgbbuster-s.jpgcrashbar-s.jpgoilfiltercover-s.jpg

Mostly what I want to know is the best way to brace the rear brake lever on the bike so I bend it straight. I haven't even checked the manual yet to see how hard it is to get off, so that might be an option. Any suggestions on dealing with any of the damage is welcome though.

p.s. Next time I'll use the center stand when in the similar circumstances.
 
take it off,put it on flat surface and smash it with a hammer. that would be a simplest\cheapest technique. or put some sort of tube on the part that you press with your feet ,creating the arm\lever and try to bend it back.as for the rest- i would leave it as it is.
 
Welcome to the have's, the have not's will join us shortly!

For the foot shift lever or break lever leave it attached to the bike, get a piece of two foot long or longer pipe the fits over the toe part to use as torque bar. Put it over the toe piece and slowly bend the lever back to original position.

For the scratch on the hand guard plastic. Sand out the ruff places. Paint both hand guard plastic covers with Plasti Dip paint (Black) from WalMart.

For the engine guard. Get some rust-oleum fine textured black paint at WalMart. Shake it up well and spray a small amount onto a piece of card board. Use a small touch up brush to apply it to the engine guard. Once it dries, no one will notice it.

For the aluminum part you will need a small grinder if you do not want to replace the small part. Get a grinder rogue pad and some fine rogue and you will not be able to see the scratch without looking hard for it.

However if the aluminum scratch is not deep I would use Happich Simichrome Polish. It is made in Germany, but most dealers can get it for you or find it on line. With a lot of elbow grease this stuff makes aluminum look like chrome.

Having been a member of the have's for a long time now, I have used all of these tricks and a lot more.7.jpg

SmileyBadDay.jpg

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I saw a post several months back on straightening a bent pedal, but I can't find it. In that instance they used a large box end wrench to straighten the lever. They said they just slipped the box end over the end of the lever and used that to bend it back.

Bob
 
Like ocr said.use a metal tube and bend it back.i would go with plastic dip also.the crome scratches don't look to bad but hard to tell from pic.
 
Bummer about the drop. +1 with using a pipe for straightening the brake lever. I had to use that method on my sons CRF a month ago.

I haven't dropped mine yet. (knock on my wood) I did get some battle scars on the left side Givi case, when my buddies son parked his ATV too close.
 
Thanks to everybody for the advice. Tried the closed-end wrench thing on the rear brake lever and it worked. All the rest of the stuff was pretty much just cosmetic so it's ready for the morning commute.
 
If you don't want to paint the plastic repairs after you use 180 or 220 grit sandpaper to smooth off the worst of the scratches you can use a felt tip black marker to color the area. After you sand it the plastic is lighter color.
 
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