Vibration at 55 (or other high gear load) SOLVED!

[WPZ]

I might add: the Missus' '12 700X vibrated enough to make her hands go numb on longer days (a professional chef, she has hand issues to start with, common to the craft).
I swiped the extra-heavy Throttlemeister bar ends from my GL1800 and put them on her bars, along with adding a layer of "Airgrip" tool handle neoprene cover on top of the hard OEM heated grips.
(A former carpenter myself, all my wood-handled hammers and other tools had Airgrip on them, as do my carry revolvers. Great stuff for shock reduction.
Stiletto AG-102 AirGrip Coldshrink 8-by-2-Inch Grip Wrap Tube for Handles up to 1-7/8-Inch in Diameter - Claw Hammers - Amazon.com)
Along with a handlebar riser/setback, the vibration has been reduced to tolerable levels. I was going to add a load of #8 lead birdshot inside the bars, an ancient trick, but these first mods seem to have moderated the problem to a tolerable level.
The Gold Wing Throttlemeisters have no "cruise control" feature, they're just big and heavy and did a lot to quell the 18s nasty handlebar vibration. It was an '01 and the bars were far too flimsy, flapping about from road shock like a pack of angry blackbirds. The big stainless lumps did a lot to help that, plus they are extremely attractive.

 

[Hondafan]

I have a 2012 with the same issue. I put up with it for years, then finally bought a 15 t front sprocket
from Superlite Sprockets. Problem solved..no more numb hands and no more "chugging". It also
transformed the personality of the bike. It is much more responsive to throttle inputs and the fuel
economy is pretty much unchanged. Big upside and no downside.

 

[Deleted member 1183]

I have a 2012 with the same issue. I put up with it for years, then finally bought a 15 t front sprocket
from Superlite Sprockets. Problem solved..no more numb hands and no more "chugging". It also
transformed the personality of the bike. It is much more responsive to throttle inputs and the fuel
economy is pretty much unchanged. Big upside and no downside.

Not being familiar with the standard gearing I assume that is a smaller sprocket on the front ?

 

[Hondafan]

Standard gearing for that year is 16T. The NC front sprocket has no offset, so you can flip them over
and double the sprocket life.

 

[DeeJay]

I have a 2012 with the same issue. I put up with it for years, then finally bought a 15 t front sprocket
from Superlite Sprockets. Problem solved.................

Makes sense, but I think the smaller sprockets might not last as long as standard sprockets (16t) - because less teeth will carry a bigger load.
Will it not be better to stick to a standard sprocket in front and rather install a bigger sprocket at the rear ?
Are any bigger rear sprockets available for our bikes ?

 

[670cc]

Are any bigger rear sprockets available for our bikes ?

I put a 45 tooth on my 2012 manual, but the purpose was to offset the larger diameter Shinko 705 rear tire. Going up two teeth in the rear requires two more links in the chain.

 

[DeeJay]

I put a 45 tooth on my 2012 manual, but the purpose was to offset the larger diameter Shinko 705 rear tire. Going up two teeth in the rear requires two more links in the chain.

Do you experience any difference as far as lugging is concerned ?

 

[670cc]

Do you experience any difference as far as lugging is concerned ?

No. The tire size and sprocket change pretty much zeroed our the RPM difference. Since it’s a manual transmission, “lugging” is all dependent on my gear choice anyway.

 

[DeeJay]

No. The tire size and sprocket change pretty much zeroed our the RPM difference. Since it’s a manual transmission, “lugging” is all dependent on my gear choice anyway.

Thanks. The rear tyre at my ‘700X is a 180/55 Zr 17 Michelin. I think the OD of these tyres should be bigger than the OD of the original tyres. I definitely do experience a lugging “problem” - which, if I remember correctly, could not be felt when the bike was new. Your comment makes me think the 180/55/17 at the rear of my 700x might perhaps contribute to the lugging at my bike.

 

[Hondafan]

Makes sense, but I think the smaller sprockets might not last as long as standard sprockets (16t) - because less teeth will carry a bigger load.
Will it not be better to stick to a standard sprocket in front and rather install a bigger sprocket at the rear ?
Are any bigger rear sprockets available for our bikes ?

Because it is a large front sprocket (most stock Honda's I have owned, were 15T stock), the 15T will still be a safe diameter for the chain to run on. Going to a larger rear sprocket is good, but you will need 2 or 3 more teeth, which will require a longer chain. When I go touring (over 2000mi.), I switch to the stock sprocket. I usually ride around 70mph when touring so the vibration thing is not an issue. Below 70mph I get better gas mileage with the 15. At 70 and above the mileage is better with the 16. Superlite sprockets make larger rear sprockets for the NC. I would suggest you buy a smaller front and see if it works for you. Then maybe sink a wad of cash into a larger rear and drive chain if you feel it is necessary.