itlives
Site Supporter
Mine has been off and on twice. No leaks.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
Pretty much impossible to get a standard torque wrench in there with the engine mounted so the procedure they specify is a "degree to torque" procedure. They did the math to figure out that if you tighten the cap with a 1mm gap and then turn another 30 degrees that you will be at the same torque spec as if you had used a torque wrench. I've seen the same basic process used in engine building. The main thing is to not over torque since it is a plastic cover and the built in nut is easy to round off. I personally snugged it by hand and then used a wrench to turn it an additional approximate 30 degree. Also put some oil on the o-ring so it doesn't try to stick when loosening it on the next valve check. Keep in mind all they are doing is tightening it enough to keep it from vibrating loose. Same thing on the 2 covers on the flywheel side. Put oil on the o-ring and don't over tighten.
I actually had 2 exhaust valves which were tight (.26 or .25 mm), so I adjusted them to .28mm, lower left on cylinder #1 and lower left on cylinder #2-I was curious they were the same valves on each cylinder so I checked all of the them again to ensure I was 'feeling' correctly and it seemed so.
First, grab yourself some tools and the Honda Service Manual. This How-To will tell you the real world what you need to do / not need to do -- but if you get stuck, you'll want to refer to the manual and it'll walk you through the process. Plus, it has all of the specs on the valve gap that you'll need. The manual will tell you to remove the lower cowl -- but it is completely unnecessary. I skip that step.
Thanks Antarius
I just printed out a copy of your post and gave it to my tame Triumph mechanic and he did my valves for me - (at 24,000+ miles first time of checking) - he said they where all a bit tight.
Result is a noticeable increase in power (must be an increase in gas flow) can really hear the valves? now rattling away at idle (with helmet & ear plugs in).
I adjusted my valves today. My NC had 32,609 miles on the clock with 14,313 miles since the last check. All the valves were on the loose end this time. Most were still within spec, but a couple was 3 thousands out. I was surprised because I figured they would be on the tight side.
I adjusted my valves today. My NC had 32,609 miles on the clock with 14,313 miles since the last check. All the valves were on the loose end this time. Most were still within spec, but a couple was 3 thousands out. I was surprised because I figured they would be on the tight side.