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Valve Adjustment Step-By-Step

Thank you for your time and very concise directions. The pictures were a huge help. You gave me the confidence to try to do this by myself.
 
Just did my second valve adjustment and noticed something: it was virtually impossible to remove the timing cover without destroying it. It's plastic and crappy, so after one removal it would not come off again without destroying it. As such, I could not use the notches to find "top dead center".

In case you run into this problem as well, here's the simple solution:

Line up the 1/T mark like normal. Then physically move the rocker arms on the #1 cylinder. If they both have play (as in you can push them up and down), you are at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke. Verify it by checking the valve clearances (they should all be close to spec or in spec as they don't move much on these bikes). If you find that the intake valves are in spec but exhaust have 0 clearance, or visaversa, you are not on the compression stroke. Rotate the crank again and line the 1/T mark up again and start the process over.
 
Antarius said:
Just did my second valve adjustment and noticed something: it was virtually impossible to remove the timing cover without destroying it. It's plastic and crappy, so after one removal it would not come off again without destroying it. As such, I could not use the notches to find "top dead center".

In case you run into this problem as well, here's the simple solution:

Line up the 1/T mark like normal. Then physically move the rocker arms on the #1 cylinder. If they both have play (as in you can push them up and down), you are at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke. Verify it by checking the valve clearances (they should all be close to spec or in spec as they don't move much on these bikes). If you find that the intake valves are in spec but exhaust have 0 clearance, or visaversa, you are not on the compression stroke. Rotate the crank again and line the 1/T mark up again and start the process over.
Click to expand...

+1. I didn't remove my timing cover last time either -- the Givi crash bars make it even harder to get to. Just spin the crank to 1T and try to wiggle the rocker arms. If they move at all, you're at the right spot, if not, rotate it around again and you will be.

trey
 
Antarius said:
Just did my second valve adjustment and noticed something: it was virtually impossible to remove the timing cover without destroying it. It's plastic and crappy, so after one removal it would not come off again without destroying it. As such, I could not use the notches to find "top dead center".

In case you run into this problem as well, here's the simple solution:

Line up the 1/T mark like normal. Then physically move the rocker arms on the #1 cylinder. If they both have play (as in you can push them up and down), you are at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke. Verify it by checking the valve clearances (they should all be close to spec or in spec as they don't move much on these bikes). If you find that the intake valves are in spec but exhaust have 0 clearance, or visaversa, you are not on the compression stroke. Rotate the crank again and line the 1/T mark up again and start the process over.
Click to expand...
I get what you are saying but the service manual gives a procedure for tightening the plastic cam shaft inspection cover so it doesn't get over tightened and can be removed multiple times without buggering it up. I've not noticed any problems removing it at the second and third valve checks.
 
Well, I finally did this...twice in a span of week for CandyStripes327. The first time I was using the top line instead of the bottom line for the timing on the right side of the bike. I found it really odd that the first valve check had practically zero lash, but I continued anyway and brought them to spec. I knew something didnt seem right when the first time I did it the bike sounded louder when I first started it up. I did consider the warning about it being louder and dismissed it. But when Sofia rode it she said it was loud. She said the power delivery was the same and all--just loud. I took it for a spin and and I agreed with her.

Upon reading this forum page, I noticed that picture from the OEM service manual saying to use the bottom line and not the top. So I spent yesterday readjusting the valves. When I lined up the timing marks to bottom line, the valves were stupid loose. I brought them to 0.18mm for the intakes and 0.28mm on the exhaust valves and she sounded much more quiet and power delivery still the same.
 
Antarius said:
Just did my second valve adjustment and noticed something: it was virtually impossible to remove the timing cover without destroying it. It's plastic and crappy, so after one removal it would not come off again without destroying it. As such, I could not use the notches to find "top dead center".

In case you run into this problem as well, here's the simple solution:

Line up the 1/T mark like normal. Then physically move the rocker arms on the #1 cylinder. If they both have play (as in you can push them up and down), you are at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke. Verify it by checking the valve clearances (they should all be close to spec or in spec as they don't move much on these bikes). If you find that the intake valves are in spec but exhaust have 0 clearance, or visaversa, you are not on the compression stroke. Rotate the crank again and line the 1/T mark up again and start the process over.
Click to expand...

For the plastic timing cover--to install it back correctly you need to use a 0.10mm feeler gauge that you place between the cap and the engine block. Tighten the cap to the 0.10mm feeler gauge. Remove feeler gauge and tighten the cap more to only 30 degrees.
 
tooblekain said:
For the plastic timing cover--to install it back correctly you need to use a 0.10mm feeler gauge that you place between the cap and the engine block. Tighten the cap to the 0.10mm feeler gauge. Remove feeler gauge and tighten the cap more to only 30 degrees.
Click to expand...

Did that, still destroyed it the second time it came to removing it and reinstalling it.

No need to use it in the future, so I haven't been. :)
 
Did my valve adjustment yesterday morning. It took less than 3 hours and was easier than working on my 91 f150. I didn't remove the timing cover, it was obvious if you were in the right spot or off by 180°. And I got coolant all over. uploadfromtaptalk1408484925033.jpg
 

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Not to be pedantic or nit picky, but it might be better to say: "clutch lever side" versus: "clutch side" because if I were asked which side the clutch is on the NC700, I would instantly blurt out "right side".

Maybe that's just me though :)
 
It's not? :confused: Shows how little I know!
Never thought about it. I do have the shop manual so I guess sooner or later, I would have seen it.
 
itlives said:
It's not? :confused: Shows how little I know!
Never thought about it. I do have the shop manual so I guess sooner or later, I would have seen it.
Click to expand...

He's being a little bit technical:

The clutch lever is on the #1 cylinder side, but the actual clutch inside the engine casing is on the throttle side. :)
 
Can anyone do me a solid and check their Service Manual for Torque Specs ?

Specifically I want to verify valve cover torque specs and if their are any torque specs for the flywheel bolt and flywheel inspection cover. Any other relative specs would be great too. Thanks.
 
I have nearly 12k miles and am getting over 80mpg. She starts up quickly every time. Why does 'if it ain't broke, don't mess with it" not apply here? I am at 5500 ft altitude and my exhaust pipe has taken on a titanium hue. Do all the o-rings need to be replaced as indicted on the previous post?
 
This is one of those things where if you waited until it broke it would be very expensive to fix.

By the book you are to replace the O-rings. I don't unless they have cuts on them. Same for the valve cover gasket. Either way make sure to coat the o-rings in oil before screwing the caps back on. Keeps them from sticking.

If you don't have a torque wrench that goes down to 7ftlbs, mine isn't reliable that low (snapped a valve cover bolt), 7ftlbs is only snug. 11 ftlbs is snug plus a touch.
 
My personal experience (and that of most here from the looks of it) is that the valve gaps wear closed. This is due to the valves and seats wearing into each other (normal process, not a problem). The bad thing is that you will not get an external noise, or ticking, like you would if the gaps were opening. As the gaps close, the valves will slowly start to float, which can overheat and burn the valve and seat, cause reduced performance, possibly damage the catalytic converter, etc. Basically, it's not something you want happening. For the 1 hour it takes to do the check, it's time well spent to avoid problems down the road.
 
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