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Rox 2" risers

Frank did you just basically scratch the riser posts? Or put ridges in them (dents/lines)?

If you ask me, I'd say I scratched them, but pretty badly.. ;-) In fact, I tried to make several lines, a little bit like this:

handle.jpg

Maybe the angle grinder is overkill, a dremel tool would work great for this. I've heard people using other methods to prevent the risers from moving, like using a small piece of sandpaper around the bar, that gets pinched between the bar and the clamps once everything is tightened. Never tried this one, but maybe worth a try the next time I need to install risers.
 
Hey FrankQC, thanks for the great info. I installed mine a few minutes ago and look great. I drove around the block and it was like riding a bike that was custom built for me! If you other forum guys haven't looked into the pivot risers by Rox, you should. What a difference. No photo post because it looks just like FrankQC's.
 
Hey FrankQC, thanks for the great info. I installed mine a few minutes ago and look great. I drove around the block and it was like riding a bike that was custom built for me! If you other forum guys haven't looked into the pivot risers by Rox, you should. What a difference. No photo post because it looks just like FrankQC's.

Glad it works for you too. Have you grinded/scratched/deremelled your risers posts before the installation ?
 
Yes I did Frank. I haven't torqued it down yet because I don't have a torque wrench. Going to Harbor Freight to pick up a cheapy since I seldom had a need for it before now. Thanks.
 

I have 1 1/4 inch straight up risers. I was looking at the NC and imagined these Motorcycle Larry's up and back risers, and I'd have to caution anyone interested that they may hit the center cover at full lock. I'm not saying they do/would but it would be wise to investigate first.

Greg
 
I have 1 1/4 inch straight up risers. I was looking at the NC and imagined these Motorcycle Larry's up and back risers, and I'd have to caution anyone interested that they may hit the center cover at full lock. I'm not saying they do/would but it would be wise to investigate first.

Greg

Agree.........there very likely could be a clearance problem. "Up and back vs back and up" looks to be a better solution. Plus the Rox gives a total infinite range of adjustment.
 
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Instead of marking bars so they don't move my gps clamps around bars.it came with a rubber piece that goes around to prevent moving.i think that would work also.or even cut a bicycle inner tube and use it around the bats to prevent moving?
 
Instead of marking bars so they don't move my gps clamps around bars.it came with a rubber piece that goes around to prevent moving.

It may be a good idea for a GPS or a cell phone to prevent rotation from vibrations, but keep in mind that there may be 100-200 pounds of forward force on the bars during a hard breaking, plus add the lever effect of the handlebar, that can easily equal to something like 400-500 pounds on the clamps. They MUST not move ! Seeing my bar rotate at this exact moment would be the last thing I'd want to see. That is probably why Honda made grooves (markings) on the OEM bar at the exact location where it meets the aluminium clamp.
 
I have had over 50 bikes and replaced atleast that many bars.I have NEVER had a bar rotate after install,even ones without groves.The main thing is ALWAYS tighten the clamps down evenly,so that the space between the top clamp and the base is the same on both sides.


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I have had over 50 bikes and replaced atleast that many bars.I have NEVER had a bar rotate after install,even ones without groves.

What a statement... I've had motorcycle insurances for the last 38 years and NEVER got an accident. I even NEVER dropped a bike, can you believe that ?! It doesn't mean it will never happen.

Since it's a known fact that OEM overengineer their parts these days, I think you should get in touch with bars manufacturers and tell them to stop spending money grooving their bars, because it's not needed.

If you don't mind, I'll keep on grooving mines.
 
Didn't say not too!!.
Just sayin that even GROOVED bars that are not tighted properly will rotate!!!

No offence, I was just overreacting ;)

The problem is that the Rox risers posts are shiny as glass and the combined 2" rise + the bars height creates a huge lever effect on the grip. Like you, I've also had several bars on several bikes and never got the issue, but I had on the NC with the risers (Even after CORRECTLY tightening everything). It was not moving by itself on a regular ride, but I was able to rotate them if I was puching as hard as I could on the bars. Making small grooves into the Rox posts created dents on the bike's grips while tightening everything togeter and my problem was solved.
 
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Curiously enough, my 2" Rox risers never budged a millimetre in 3 years, and they weren't even torqued down properly at all. I couldn't get any kind of wrench in to do up two of the four top clamp bolts.

I could tighten up two only to the point where I could still rotate the bars far enough to get at the other, now exposed, two bolts, but obviously then, the bars were now in the way of the front two only lightly tightened ones.

So I rode for years with two only lightly tightened top clamp bolts, and the bars never moved.

My Rox are the unfinished plain (either polished or clear anodised, I don't know to tell the truth) aluminum ones.


I'm not arguing for or against teh groovy grooves, just making a 2 cent statement as to my own dealings with 'em. ;)
 
For anyone who has done the Rox risers themselves, what tools are needed to complete them? Is it just the four hex bolts on top, or are there nuts on the under side to remove?
 
Read about the grooving problem, saw grinder but what works really awesome is a coarse round file in similar situations I have experienced.
 
When I dumped mine, I bent the sheet out of the clutch lever, pro taper bars and the entire fairing/tank/speedo is shifted over 1/2", but the rox risors never moved.

No grooves other than what was on the factory mount.
 
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