Rear Rack modification? - advice needed!

[Garydj]

Question for the handy folks here. I have Dale's Rear Rack with fuel cutout. I have also acquired a nice set of saddlebags made from heavy leather. I was disappointed to find that I could not put the saddlebags under the rack as the leather is too thick and will not allow the rack to latch.

So here's the question: What would I need to get to allow me to notch the rack on the underside just enough to allow the rack to clear the saddlebags? It would be about an 1/8 inch in depth is my guess and about 2 inches on each side. I might add that I have no power tools except a hand drill.

 

[Cigar Mike]

With the power tool you do have. A mounted grinding stone on a shank that fits in the drill motor may be the easiest way to go. It will take some time but will eventually get the job done. It depends on how good of a drill motor you have.

 

[StratTuner]

here's one idea...

Like you, I have a set of throw over saddle bags. I couldn't use them AND be able to open the rear seat.... so...

1. put one small quick release strap on each bag to hold it to the grab rail (centered on each bag)
2. fitted the throw over bags with two more quick release straps that hold the two bags together on top of the rear seat. These are the load-baring straps that hold all the weight of both bags

When I stop for gas, I can :

• pop the two quick releases on top of the rear seat
• raise the seat
• fill up the tank
• lower the seat
• re-snug the straps

the small straps that connect the bags to the grab rails are just there to hold them in place while the top straps are undone. The whole thing comes off with just four quick releases.... all Walmart items under $10.
Here's what that looks like.

 

[drdubb]

Dales' rack is aluminum. It would not take long to file a 1/8" deep notch with a mill or other type of file.

 

[Garydj]

With the power tool you do have. A mounted grinding stone on a shank that fits in the drill motor may be the easiest way to go. It will take some time but will eventually get the job done. It depends on how good of a drill motor you have.

Thanks Mike. After I posted this I wondered if that might work. StratTuner, I had thought of attaching the saddlebags to the rack with cable ties, but I like the idea that the bags will be at least a bit hard for someone to walk off. They are not locking, so I realize that I can't keep anything in them that I can't afford to loose.

 

[StratTuner]

I'm hoping you'll post a photo or two of how you solve this one... I do so love backyard engineering.

 

[Cigar Mike]

Dales' rack is aluminum. It would not take long to file a 1/8" deep notch with a mill or other type of file.

This is true. Brute force and ignorance is one of my best methods. It does get the job done.

Rotary file on the drill would make quick work of 1/8" aluminum.

 

[Garydj]

I picked up the grinder wheel from Walmart today. When I get a warm day again, I'll make the mod and post a picture. Thanks for all the tips. I was thinking the rack was steel which would have made the job much harder.

StratTuner, your bags look very similar to what I have. It may have been your post that I was saw recommending the good price on them when I got them.

 

[StratTuner]

StratTuner, your bags look very similar to what I have. It may have been your post that I was saw recommending the good price on them when I got them.

if they were [THESE] from "jaffrum.com", then yes. For the money, they're really good bags.

 

[Garydj]

if they were [THESE] from "jaffrum.com", then yes. For the money, they're really good bags.

Those are them. The only issue I have with them is that one side had the zipper mangled, so I dared not use it. Not a big deal, as I can't see separating them anyway. All in all, they look like they will hold up well.

 

[StratTuner]

I zipped them, then zip tied that big flap to the bag. Left and right come off separately, but both are a lot more secure.

 

[Garydj]

Well, I'm going to have to go with plan B. As I got into it, I realized that much more than 1/8" would have to come off the sides of the rack. The hand hold bars raise the bag connector piece quite a ways above the actual under seat area. I don't want to weaken the rack or make that much of a grind.

An advantage of having the bags across the top of the rack is that they are that much further from getting into the wheel well, I still think I'm going to have to come up with some kind of support between the bags and the side of the bike.

To be continued after I think on this some more...

 

[StratTuner]

[THIS] is what I did... built on another rider's idea, but it's held up really well over time....didn't cost much either.
I'm still using them ... to this day ... and with the same bags you're using.

 

[Garydj]

I've considered that, but every time I look for the parts, my local stores don't have one part or another. These bags are pretty stiff, so I'm not sure I need that much support anyway.

 

[JimbosToys]

nice bags! show a full side pic of them on the NC?

 

[Cigar Mike]

The Blaze Saddlebags use a single rod/tubing coming back from the foot peg bracket to hold the bags out of the wheels. It seems like this would be and easy fix.

 

[Garydj]

The Blaze Saddlebags use a single rod/tubing coming back from the foot peg bracket to hold the bags out of the wheels. It seems like this would be and easy fix.

I've been thinking about something like this using a flat metal bar. I just need to find the bar material. Now that the weather here in Kansas is warming up, I will be hitting this project more.

 

[StratTuner]

nice bags! show a full side pic of them on the NC?

like this...

 

[StratTuner]

there are also two 6mm threaded holes on the back side of the pillion foot pegs.
One rider attached a metal piece (flat bar?) to this that angled back and up so that it stopped the bags from entering the wheel well...
pretty elegant looking...wish I could find the post... he had pictures too.

 

[JimbosToys]

Looks great! nice work.