Lowering link question

[Fred]

I have ordered the Race Tech Emulator kit for the forks of my new 2013 DC. All reports are that this will solve the front end issues on rough roads.
The rear shock is also pretty harsh on secondary roads and is incredibly choppy and uncomfortable to someone coming off dual sport bikes with softer suspension like myself.
So... I thought I would install a set of lowering links (even though I don't need them for height reduction) but rather only to increase the leverage against the shock to try and soften the ride a little. Maybe just a 3/4 to 1" inch drop so I could also compensate with the front fork height a little as well so as not to disturb the handling geometry too much.

Eventually will get a proper shock with rebound adjustment... but for now I have an old set of V-Strom lowering links I found in a drawer that I can bush down from 12MM holes to the 10MM used on the Honda. The sections are the same if not a little stronger.

Has anyone used this method to soften the ride of this NC? I'm also curious as to how much the bike will drop in height per MM of link length extension, any ideas? I guess I can always just stick them on and try....

Thanks in advance for your ideas and opinions

 

[L.B.S.]

Interesting thought, Fred


*thinking out loud*

As the name suggests, ProLink is a progressive rising rate linkage, so in theory sure, changing that geometry ratio should throw something into the mix- but to be honest I dunno if that would be enough to overcome the poor to average damping in the OEM shock to any noticeable degree. And that's *if* it was on the benefit side of the coin.

Off the top of my head, longer links would tend to make me imagine the added leverage would increase the speed at which the rising rate ramps up, making the shock compress a bit earlier than the design is specified for, thus making the shock feel even a little harsher over small bumps.

That's just me though. There have been more occasions than I care to count, where my thinking was completely backwards to reality, lol

I have no real experience in suspension tech or the after effects of lowering a linkage equipped bike to do more than armchair speculate, sorry

 

[Beemerphile]

I think you have it backwards. I believe, as Lane, that longer (lowering) links increase the progressive rate of the rear suspension making them stiffer.

 

[Fred]

thanks. I will let sleeping dogs lie....and begin the search for a shock replacement...

.any suggestions from those who have moved this suspension up the food chain?????

 

[L.B.S.]

thanks. I will let sleeping dogs lie....and begin the search for a shock replacement...

.any suggestions from those who have moved this suspension up the food chain?????

Here is a sample of some shock brands and approximate prices I tried to document as of 2013- with the way of the economy and big currency/market swings since then, please note the costs may be off the mark by a large factor, as of 2016...

http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-...rands-models-costs.html?highlight=rear+shocks

 

[BerndM]

OMG...those prices are beyond ridiculous.
I can get a set of 4 shocks for my car for $175, just a bit less than ONE of those rear bike shocks.

 

[Beemerphile]

OMG...those prices are beyond ridiculous.
I can get a set of 4 shocks for my car for $175, just a bit less than ONE of those rear bike shocks.

Same story as tires, mufflers, oil filters, oil, headlight bulbs. Anything that is motorcycle-specific. I think it is a combination of the diseconomies of small scale production intersecting with the willingness of an enthusiast community to pamper their toys. You will not be happy with a $175 motorcycle shock.

 

[Fred]

heart stopping..... breath taking..... mind boggling prices
Hyperpro from Holland seems to be the most touring oriented and price sensible with their "shock in box" marketing and packaging. If the added weight of rear racks and boxes doesn't help soften the ride I'll re-mortgage my house and purchase one.

 

[DirtFlier]

[...Has anyone used this method to soften the ride of this NC?...]


For a long time, I felt the ride got stiffer after I installed Kouba Links. Out of curiosity, I strapped my NC to my lift and took careful measurements of wheel travel-vs-shock travel, with the standard links and with the Kouba Links. And the shock spring was removed to make compressing it much easier and safer. I measured how much the shock compressed for each 1" of wheel travel. The difference in shock travel between the two versions was so small that I now feel it would not be felt in the ride.

ps. the Race Tech Gold Valves add about 3/4" additional preload to the fork springs because of their thickness. If you cut the spring spacers by that same amount, you'd end up with the original geometry.

 

[670cc]

Yes I wondered about that comment on the Gold Valves raising the front height. You cut the spring spacer down by the thickness of the emulator and your ride height is unchanged. Now if you were talking about using the racetech springs, too, then I don't know what the effect on height would be.

 

[Grey1one]

I went crazy and got both ends done with a Racetech setup built for my size and riding type, I don't do much off road at all.

It wasn't cheap, but it handles and handles bumpy surfaces so well now.

 

[L.B.S.]

Yes I wondered about that comment on the Gold Valves raising the front height. You cut the spring spacer down by the thickness of the emulator and your ride height is unchanged. Now if you were talking about using the racetech springs, too, then I don't know what the effect on height would be.

heh heh I had brain fade (an altogether too common occurrence...) when I installed my Ricor's and forgot to take into account the valve thickness, so didn't cut down my oem spacers.

I preferred the added ride height, but the problem I have, is I can't fit my bike under the deck where I have to park it with even a couple of millimetres added height. Fortunately the adjustable preload caps I bought allowed me to cut down the spacers enough to fit under the deck at zero preload, and then I can crank them back up with a few turns of a wrench or screwdriver at my convenience once out from under the parking spot.

I will have to add in all honesty though, the added height is more of a placebo thing versus reality, as my imagining of a possible few extra microns of ground clearance is pretty much laughable, as I have discovered

 

[Deleted member 4372]

I'm cheap.
Any advice on (flea)ebay's "neverland""billet aluminum" lowering links?