Heated gear question

[radiotinnitus]

I read and appreciated the current thread on cold weather gear. I am on the fence about whether to go electric, battery operated or the one piece thermo suit.

I have a remedial question about electric gear on the NC700. There is a battery tender lead in the faux tank. I suppose I would need an adapter to plug my gear into that. Or the 12 volt socket also inside the faux tank. But then it seems like the wiring would have to run out the faux tank lid which might crimp the wire and/or leave a place for water to get inside the faux tank. Or do you have to drill an exit hole somewhere, or run the wire out somewhere back behind the battery and not through the faux tank? I haven't found any nitty gritty information on how this stuff actually wires up. Is there an idiot's guide to this somewhere?

If this turns out to be too daunting for me I'm thinking of getting a battery operated vest to wear under that one piece suit that Beemerphile pointed out.

 

[OriginalRocket]

You drill a hole in the storage area for the 12v socket. As for the wiring, I believe a harness is supplied.

 

[Cyclerosis]

Radio, read through this thread. There's a variety of installations you can do. And it's not very difficult.

http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-technical/552-accessory-outlet.html

 

[Cyclerosis]

This thread has pictures.
http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-mods/627-powering-up.html

 

[turbodieseli4i6]

I just temporarily wired mine in. My Gerbing jacket liner came with this.

Gerbings replacement battery harness with 15-amp fuse - TwistedThrottle.com

I was able to attach it to the battery and run it between the seat and the plastic cover, without drilling any holes.

When not in use I tuck it under the seat, so its not visible.



My controller is in a pocket in my jacket and I just plug it in when needed.
Gerbings temperature controller (portable dual) - TwistedThrottle.com




I will mount a flush mounted receptacle, when I add all the accessories that I want,at the same
time.

Gerbings panel mounted port kit - TwistedThrottle.com

Hope this helps.

 

[radiotinnitus]

Thanks for the info, pictures and links. Wow, I feel pretty stupid. I bought the factory 12 Volt socket installed by the dealership. Not only does the socket not work b/c the sub harness is backordered till December, but now it appears you guys are saying it's an underpowered 1 amp outlet which isn't going to be appropriate for heated gear. When I ordered my bike and accessories the dealership told me that's exactly where I could plug in my heated gear! Is the dealership as dumb as I am or did they just intentionally rip me off?

This is why I'm looking at getting the battery operated gear. It may not be as warm on my bike, but at least I can use it out in my tree stand. Plus, it's not necessarily motorcycle gear which at this point really trips my trigger.

 

[throttlegirl]

I'd like to throw this question into the mix. I already have Firstgear heated gloves and am looking to purchase a matching headed liner. They offer a 65 and a 90 watt version. It says the 65 watt is for low amperage bikes. As the NC700X is a bike that I could possibly be purchasing, I want to be sure I get the right one. Any thoughts for those with more understanding of this? I will be running it on the 2 bikes that I have now, a V-star 650 and a Victory V92C. Not too sure about what would be best to run on them either.

 

[Beemerphile]

I'd like to throw this question into the mix. I already have Firstgear heated gloves and am looking to purchase a matching headed liner. They offer a 65 and a 90 watt version. It says the 65 watt is for low amperage bikes. As the NC700X is a bike that I could possibly be purchasing, I want to be sure I get the right one. Any thoughts for those with more understanding of this? I will be running it on the 2 bikes that I have now, a V-star 650 and a Victory V92C. Not too sure about what would be best to run on them either.

I think the 65 watt would be more for a small scooter or something. You should be fine with the 90 watt unit unless you have added a lot of extra lighting and such. You can always turn the thermostat down. That is what I did on my old BMW that only had a 280 watt generator. When I upgraded to a 400 watt unit the problem went away. The NC is rated 420 watts.

 

[mike5100]

Beemerphile is right - you can always turn a 90watt one down so it takes less juice. However, I went for the warmnsafe 65 watt jacket rather than their 90 watt, because it's also wired up to their socks, and if I turn the 90watt one down too much it would make the socks too cool. .... or that would have been the case, but I now have a dual controller on the way.
65watt seems adequate for UK winters which are normally cool and wet rather than really cold. And my strategy anyway is in the depths f winter I put a primaloft puffa jacket over the warmnsafe heated liner, and this means 65watts is more than adequate.

I drilled a hole in the battery cover plate thing, and a small hole in the not-tank near the start of the seat. I ran the wiring harness through the well of the not tank, and simply gaffa taped the wire to the walls and base. I didn't want to take all the panels off. The tail of the wire pokes up between the not-tank and the front of the seat.

By the way - if you are thinking of battery power then yes - do that as well. I invested in one of Keis's intelligent batteries. When I leave the bike I just grab the battery and set it on number 2 and it will power the jacket and socks for several hours - great at bike meets while all my mates are freezing.
Mike