First Time Wheel Removal

[RobN.]

I have had many bikes over the years, and usually do most of the simple maintenance myself. I have always paid someone else to swap the tires out.

Tired of seeing the "techs" flogging customers bikes on the "test ride to make sure it is OK"

This time I want to remove my wheels & take them to a shop to change the tires, because I don't have spoons and doubt I could manage it anyhow.


I have the sockets, torque wrenches, and service manual, but looking through the service manual left a few things unclear in my (feeble) mind.


I read in a thread that it isn't necessary to remove the rear brake caliper in order to remove the rear wheel. Is that correct?

Will I need to remove the front brake caliper?

Do you normally have to remove the brake rotor(s) and sprocket from the wheels?

Any preference in removing one before the other? Front/Rear I have the Honda center stand, jack stands, and jacks.


I understand how to adjust & align the chain, torque the bolts, etc. any little ticks or tips to make it go better?

Thanks to all in advance.

RobN

 

[pismocycleguy]

I have had many bikes over the years, and usually do most of the simple maintenance myself. I have always paid someone else to swap the tires out.

Tired of seeing the "techs" flogging customers bikes on the "test ride to make sure it is OK"

This time I want to remove my wheels & take them to a shop to change the tires, because I don't have spoons and doubt I could manage it anyhow.


I have the sockets, torque wrenches, and service manual, but looking through the service manual left a few things unclear in my (feeble) mind.


I read in a thread that it isn't necessary to remove the rear brake caliper in order to remove the rear wheel. Is that correct?

Will I need to remove the front brake caliper?

Do you normally have to remove the brake rotor(s) and sprocket from the wheels?

Any preference in removing one before the other? Front/Rear I have the Honda center stand, jack stands, and jacks.


I understand how to adjust & align the chain, torque the bolts, etc. any little ticks or tips to make it go better?

Thanks to all in advance.

RobN

No need to remove the calipers to remove the tires and wheels.
I would remove the brake rotors and the rear sprocket. (To protect the rotors and sprocket and ease the tire removal from the wheels)
I would remove the rear wheel first, (since it's in the air), then remove the front wheel after raising the front enough for the wheel to clear the front fork.
Make sure the rest of the bikes is stable before walking away.

 

[Wcmike]

I just did the rear. The brake caliper just lifts off once the axle bolt is pulled past it. Make sure the rear bake isn't touched while the caliper is off. You obviously don't want the pads to compress. Putting the tire back on is easy too. If I remember right I slid the axle bolt through and then backed it out to set the brake caliper into the right position. The two spacer washers on the wheel fall off easy so pocket them as soon as you pull the wheel. I greased the axle a little before putting it back on.

And don't do like I did and forget to torque the tensioner bolts. I aligned and tensioned the chain and then torqued the axle nut to 72 ftlbs and then put all my tools away. Eager to ride? Maybe dinner time? I don't know. The axle was a half inch torque wrench and I use a 3/8ths wrench on the tensioners. I just didn't do it. The right one got a little loose. A friend noticed it while following me. I lost a little 'cred' that day.

 

[Old Can Ride]

I have had many bikes over the years, and usually do most of the simple maintenance myself. I have always paid someone else to swap the tires out.

Tired of seeing the "techs" flogging customers bikes on the "test ride to make sure it is OK"

This time I want to remove my wheels & take them to a shop to change the tires, because I don't have spoons and doubt I could manage it anyhow.


I have the sockets, torque wrenches, and service manual, but looking through the service manual left a few things unclear in my (feeble) mind.


I read in a thread that it isn't necessary to remove the rear brake caliper in order to remove the rear wheel. Is that correct?

Will I need to remove the front brake caliper?

Do you normally have to remove the brake rotor(s) and sprocket from the wheels?

Any preference in removing one before the other? Front/Rear I have the Honda center stand, jack stands, and jacks.


I understand how to adjust & align the chain, torque the bolts, etc. any little ticks or tips to make it go better?

Thanks to all in advance.

RobN

One of the negatives about riding a motorcycle is that you will go though a lot of tires. Just comes with the territory.

 

[bamamate]

On the rear I did not remove the caliper first. Remove the axel and chain, then rolled the wheel out while supporting the caliper/caliper bracket. When reinstalling make sure you get the caliper bracket slot on the nub on the swing arm. Caliper bracket is also a spacer for the rear wheel. The bracket has a slot and matching nub on the swing arm that keeps the bracket from rotating. You will see what I'm talking about when you take it off. On the front I did remove the caliper first. I couldn't get the wheel to angle around the caliper without removing it. I think the spacers on the front are the same size but on some bikes they aren't so I always make sure to keep them on the same side. I spooned my own tires so I have no idea on removing rotors before taking it to a shop.

 

[670cc]

Like bamamate said, I would remove the front caliper. Makes reinstalling the wheel easier and prevents damaging the pads.

 

[Fuzzy]

One of the negatives about riding a motorcycle is that you will go though a lot of tires. Just comes with the territory.

Maybe not a negative. Lets me try different tires. I have averaged 105,000 miles on the tires on my Honda truck. If I try something different it takes a long time to wear them out if I don't like them. I have 80,000 miles on my third set with lots of tread left.

 

[ziggie]

Wcmike,your tork the axle nut to 72 pounds?I think you only need 22 pounds,but I could be wrong.

 

[670cc]

Wcmike,your tork the axle nut to 72 pounds?I think you only need 22 pounds,but I could be wrong.

From the owners manual, front axle torque spec 55 foot pounds, rear axle 72 foot pounds. If yours is at 22, better go check it.

 

[ziggie]

Thanks 670 its 72,must have had a brain crap,I was thinking 22 for some reason.

 

[ziggie]

Its a 22 mm socket that fits the nut,I knew 22 fit in there somewhere lol.

 

[RobN.]

Thanks to all of you for sharing your experience and knowledge. Looks like I will be able to accomplish this with little or no head banging.

Also I found out yesterday I won't be riding for a few weeks due to health issues, so I'll have plenty of time to do it correctly & make sure everything works properly.

Thanks again,

RobN.

 

[happy]

Is the groove on the axle due to over tightening?
Or is it supposed to be there?