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fender cracked after installing extender

I used 3M double-sided sticky tape that's really super sticky. It is fixed hard onto the fender, I don't think I could pry it off without doing some damage. After being on there 3 months, it's not going to come loose unless I ride in an extended flood.

I did the same thing, 3M 1" wide, side to side three times. The tape supplied is crap. Then I put a small bead of construction adhesive across the top (uppermost section) from side to sideto keep the moisture out. That thing is never coming off.

Drilling holes and using bolts/rivets is not necessary. That is overkill.
 
I did the same thing, 3M 1" wide, side to side three times. The tape supplied is crap. Then I put a small bead of construction adhesive across the top (uppermost section) from side to sideto keep the moisture out. That thing is never coming off.

Drilling holes and using bolts/rivets is not necessary. That is overkill.

Are you talking the 3M VHB tape?
 Â 3Mâ„¢ VHBâ„¢ Tape
 
Interesting vieo on VHB tapes

[video=youtube;7OtrDvDvF5I]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7OtrDvDvF5I[/video]
 
Thanks for the clip. I was struck by the 72 hours for maximum strength, exactly the same that Honda puts in their instructions for fitting the NC700X air deflectors. I expect that that is a similar acrylic tape.

Reading this thread, I was convinced that mechanical fasteners were the way to go. After this clip, I believe that the VHB tape is a safe way to go, perhaps even superior - I doubt there will be any cracks, certainly no stress risers that can plague mechanical fasteners.
 
I'm still skeptical. The video isn't testing the fenda extenda application. We are not going to hit the thing with that much force, hopefully never, let alone 20 times.
In that test, the tape is superior because it distributes force over a wider area. The rivets rip out pretty quickly... but is that our concern with the fender application?
No, no it's not.
In the fender application, the problem is longevity. Which will decay first? The chemical tape or the Rivet?
I'm betting the rivet will outlast the chemical.
Still, it may be that both will outlast the motorcycle, so the tape would work just as well as the rivet given that time constraint.
The video is fun, but it's not testing what we're interested in mostly..
Yes, we'd like the fenda extenda to "take a hit" and survive, but mostly we want it to stay where it is....for a long time.
 
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If you are going to hang your best hat on one nail, make sure it is a good one. I prefer redundancy in critical systems but let 'er rip. I would caution that there are many different types of tapes and not all are VHB (very high bond). Even of the VHB tapes, there are different constructions for different purposes. You have to make sure you have the right one. After you have the right one, you need to make sure that the surfaces are properly prepared and the tapes are correctly applied and cured.

Refer below to the comments of "typical users" on Amazon for a particular 3M VHB tape. It is bi-modal in the extreme. Nearly half said it was great and an almost equal number said it was horrible. There was one lonely guy in the middle. Most assuredly the bad outcomes are because of mis-application or not adhering to application instructions. But, every one of the bad reports represents a failure using the VHB tape. If our members are the bell curve of the normal population, half of them will have poor results with VHB tape because of issues of their own making. In Shakespearean terms, they will have been hoist by their own petard.

Read specifically the comments of Tim W. on the use and misuse of the products.

Amazon.com: Customer Reviews: 3M 4941 VHB Double-Sided Acrylic Foam Tape, 45 mil, 0.5" x 5 Yards (Dark Grey)

My point is, don't say "OK, 3M VHB. Done deal." Make sure it is the right one, with surfaces properly prepared, then properly applied and cured.
 
I totally agree with you Beemerphile!
As a matter of fact, on the 3M VHB page they have criterias for proper application, and one of them is "Flexibility of materials" (on the left side bar). I would think that for the Extenda, the proper selection would be "Both Substraits Flexible", would you agree? ( I really am just guessing here, assuming that they mean that in our case the fender and extenda are both flexible).
`
But generally, it seems that if this kind of tape is good enough for construction purposes - it should definitely do for the tiny piece of plastic we are talking about :) JMHO!
 
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Well for what it's worth after 4k miles throughout all sorts of weather (snow, rain, blistering heat) my cracked fender (and fender extender for that matter) have stayed exactly where they were intended to be. My misplaced bolts (along with the factory supplied tape) and nothing more have held the fender extender in place

They haven't got sucked into the wheel and caused my fiery horrid death that some predicted. I laughed when it was suggested a piece of plastic this size could lock the front wheel and cause a crash. If ( and that's a big if) it got sucked into the front wheel the forces of the tire and fender would spread this small piece of plastic into much smaller pieces of plastic
 
Mine just came in the mail, and after all this... I'm just dreading putting it on... rivets? tape? glue that I don't have?
Time to make a trip to the hardware store.

I think I'll glue it in place first then put in pop rivets.
 
They haven't got sucked into the wheel and caused my fiery horrid death that some predicted. I laughed when it was suggested a piece of plastic this size could lock the front wheel and cause a crash. If ( and that's a big if) it got sucked into the front wheel the forces of the tire and fender would spread this small piece of plastic into much smaller pieces of plastic

There is a YouTube video of a BMW F800GS that crashed after the rear of the fender got sucked in and locked the wheel. I searched for it recently and could not find it now. The guy had a GoPro camera on and it recorded the fall. You are a bit too sure of your conclusion. Laugh on, 'bro.
 
gpd211;36919 They haven't got sucked into the wheel and caused my fiery horrid death that some predicted. I laughed when it was suggested a piece of plastic this size could lock the front wheel and cause a crash. If ( and that's a big if) it got sucked into the front wheel the forces of the tire and fender would spread this small piece of plastic into much smaller pieces of plastic[/QUOTE said:
Some might think a shoe lace, back pack strap or bungee cord would not stop a wheel from rotating............it can and does happen.
 
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I drilled 4 holes both on the front fender and extension. Used a metal screw for plastic to tight them together and some double side tape. Locked the screws with super glue gel. I didn't have quite long pop rivets to install them properly.

But I check the bike about every 500 kms ( fender,lights,brakes, tire pressure, chain, radiator dirt or leakage, etc. ) as preventive maintenance.
I try to avoid any problems that may occur, but if so, it wouldn't be my fault.
 
This will probably get me kicked off the forum, but I'm going to make a confession.

I installed the Fenda Extenda in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Well, I did use 10-24 screws and nuts instead of the supplied self tapping screws but only because I've learned over the years that if I handle anything sharp it leads to loss of blood. The double sided tape was used, and the fasteners were placed in the recommended locations. Yes, I'm ashamed of myself and will you please let me stay if I promise never to do it again?

Bob
 
Quick question... What is the best LENGTH of pop rivet to use? 1/4? 1/8? 1/2?

I'm using 5mm diameter, but I notice there are different lengths.
Thanks for the benefit of your experience.
 
Quick question... What is the best LENGTH of pop rivet to use? 1/4? 1/8? 1/2?

I'm using 5mm diameter, but I notice there are different lengths.
Thanks for the benefit of your experience.

I'm guessing 1/4' but the only way to tell for sure is to assemble the extender and fender using whatever glue or tape you've decided on and drill the holes for the rivets. Then measure the depth of the hole and add the thickness of any washer you plan on using. Hole depth plus thickness of washer is the grip length you need.

Bob
 
I went straight to stainless steel rivets. Looks like a slight case of overkill with 6 rivets, but the ones nearest the front ended up very close to the front edge of the extender (I know, measure twice, drill once) - I just didn't fully take into account how the shape of the extender cuts back.

View attachment 3816

What size pop rivets did you use? I have 5mm diameter, but I'm not sure what LENGTH to use. 1/4? 1/2? 1/8?
Your install turned out very clean... I would say, and I'm modeling my effort after yours.
Any Advice?


Oooops! Didn't realize I was reposting the same question in the same thread when I did it!
 
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I'm guessing 1/4' but the only way to tell for sure is to assemble the extender and fender using whatever glue or tape you've decided on and drill the holes for the rivets. Then measure the depth of the hole and add the thickness of any washer you plan on using. Hole depth plus thickness of washer is the grip length you need.

Bob
Good point, Bot. I guess I could stick the thing on, drill the holes, then measure the thickness with a toothpick to figure out what to use.
Would one use a washer with a pop rivet? Nylon? Rubber seems like it would rot eventually.
 
I think the washer was already discussed earlier in this thread, but they make pop rivet washers for this purpose. You should be able to find them in the same location as the rivets, or you may be able to find rivets with matching washers packaged together. Since you are riveting rather soft plastic, the washer is a good idea. The washer is not meant to go under the head of the rivet. To install, insert the rivet through the hole and put the washer on the bottom of the rivet (the end that expands).

Bob
 
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