kjang
Member
Thanks for the fabulous photos !!!
I ordered my sw-motech early this morning.
Thanks Again,
ken
I ordered my sw-motech early this morning.
Thanks Again,
ken
Engine Crash Guards: Givi, SW Motech, or Hepco and Becker?
- Thread starter drseth
- Start date
TheEdge900
Member
I know it has been several months since this thread has been active, but I wanted to know what you thought of the Givi bars after comparing the two?
Does anyone know, or could they measure the tubing diameter of the Givi engine guards? I have a set of them ordered, but was hoping to go ahead and get some aux light brackets ordered, too.
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Revzilla lists them as 1" and I went out and confirmed on mine, 1"
As an aside, I too, am looking for some aux light tubular mounting brackets, but haven't decided on trying to go off the Givi's, or manufacture a quasi Honda style tube mount, bolted from up under the beak...
The lights I got are great hulking things that are very sticky outy, lol
Which kind of light brackets are you getting?
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Not sure about the bracket type but since it's 1 inch (AKA 25 mm), that opens up many possibilities. There are quite a few eBay-ish deals out there for that size clamp. I originally planned to mount lights to the bike frame but the tubing size and angles created some challenges.
The NC is quite torn down for the next month, at least, for mods. Heated grips, hand guards, risers (more rise than I had before), longer brake hose are done. Engine guards and lights to come. Valves have been checked and oil changed. New tires on order but waiting to wear these out. All grey body plastic is removed for painting once the holidays are past. Changing color to Pearl Sunburst Orange, a color used on the 2002 GL1800 and several late model Honda cars. Painting GIVI top case to match. Obviously I will post photos when done. Waiting for Sargent to introduce their seat.
The NC is quite torn down for the next month, at least, for mods. Heated grips, hand guards, risers (more rise than I had before), longer brake hose are done. Engine guards and lights to come. Valves have been checked and oil changed. New tires on order but waiting to wear these out. All grey body plastic is removed for painting once the holidays are past. Changing color to Pearl Sunburst Orange, a color used on the 2002 GL1800 and several late model Honda cars. Painting GIVI top case to match. Obviously I will post photos when done. Waiting for Sargent to introduce their seat.
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silverhound
New Member
I bought the Givi guards for my wife's NCX and used these mounts (In black) for the lights. PIAA Mounts. The 7/8" to 1 1/4" inch size comes with plastic inserts to accommodate the bar size range. I liked the idea of the swivel adjustment.
These are the mounts I'm using on my Givi engine guards. Crash Bar Light Mount Hopefully this may help.
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ooooh, that's a site full of goodies! Great prices for stuff
You are a cruel man
ooooh, that's a site full of goodies! Great prices for stuff
You are a cruel man
I also have the M-60 lights on my NCX. They are very bright and have been reliable (so far)and worth every penny. I don't use them while traffic is in front of me because they will blind anyone in front of me.
Have fun
Model 60 LED off road flood light
You can also get a discount if you are a ADVrider member. Maybe we can get a NC700 discount..
silverhound
New Member
Those appear to be the same ones I used but for A LOT less. Good find TurboDiesel. Will have to bookmark that site for "future" purposes.
charliesays
New Member
Can anyone tell me how much torque they used when reinstalling the bolts for the Givi crash bars?
Fredtoo
Site Supporter
The SW-MOTECH crash bars indicated 44 ft lbs in the instructions.
SW-Motech provides new longer bolts with the kit. Givi does not. If you are re-installing the original bolts with the Givi bars, you are threading them into about half as many threads in the engine block. The specified torque into half as many threads could strip the block.
Get longer (plated, high strength) bolts that extend through the last thread in the block and torque them to the spec in the service manual. If no-one beats me to it I will look it up in the manual and post it here later.
Get longer (plated, high strength) bolts that extend through the last thread in the block and torque them to the spec in the service manual. If no-one beats me to it I will look it up in the manual and post it here later.
Below is the information I used that Beemerphile posted in a thread back in August, 2012 and which I followed to the letter in mounting my Givi bars to my dct bike. I did order the my addtional bolts from the local Fastenal store.
Quoting from Lee's thread on this subject:
"In this case, I think the engine guard and the mounting points are fine, but I disagree strongly with re-using the stock engine bolts. So, I plan to install longer bolts to achieve NO LESS than the original amount of thread engagement as it represents the best that we can do. All four of the threaded attachment points are open to the inside, so a bolt longer than necessary will do no harm so long as there is sufficient length of thread to get to where the threaded portion starts. I will install somewhat longer than necessary bolts so that I have some reserve in case I add a later accessory, such as a skidplate, that wants to mount to the same place.
Here are the numbers for the engine bolts on the US spec 700x with manual transmission (not DCT). All are grade 10.9 M12-1.25 hex washer head bolts.
UPPER LEFT: 35mm long bolt with 7mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
UPPER RIGHT: 45mm long bolt with 17mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
LOWER LEFT: 80mm long bolt with 46mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
LOWER RIGHT: 55mm long bolt with 30mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
The stock bolts are not exactly flush with the exit of the bosses, so the numbers above don't clarify that the thickness of the threaded bosses are between 25 and 27mm thick. I don't want to reduce it by 20% and add potential impact forces. I publish them here so that you don't have to do the research. In order to keep the engine in position, you have to remove, measure, and reinstall them one at a time. Since they are open on the inside I plan to get bolts 10mm longer so long as the distance to start of thread is adequate. I could not find these bolts in washer head, but +10mm will allow enough length to add a washer under the head. The upper right bolt can be re-used on the upper left. I purchased three new bolts in 55mm, 70mm (65 was not available), and 90mm length with grade 10.9 washers from:
Bolt Depot - Nuts and Bolts, Screws and Fasteners online"
Another quote from Beemerphile on torque:
"The Givi instructions are simple pictures with little technical information. The NC700X service manual from Honda specifies 54 N-m for the 12mm engine mounting bolts. Since they are extra fine threads into aluminum, make sure that the threads are clean (internally and externally) and approach the torque slowly. I normally do it in about three steps."
I followed Lee's instructions and did not have any problem installing the guards.
.
Quoting from Lee's thread on this subject:
"In this case, I think the engine guard and the mounting points are fine, but I disagree strongly with re-using the stock engine bolts. So, I plan to install longer bolts to achieve NO LESS than the original amount of thread engagement as it represents the best that we can do. All four of the threaded attachment points are open to the inside, so a bolt longer than necessary will do no harm so long as there is sufficient length of thread to get to where the threaded portion starts. I will install somewhat longer than necessary bolts so that I have some reserve in case I add a later accessory, such as a skidplate, that wants to mount to the same place.
Here are the numbers for the engine bolts on the US spec 700x with manual transmission (not DCT). All are grade 10.9 M12-1.25 hex washer head bolts.
UPPER LEFT: 35mm long bolt with 7mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
UPPER RIGHT: 45mm long bolt with 17mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
LOWER LEFT: 80mm long bolt with 46mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
LOWER RIGHT: 55mm long bolt with 30mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
The stock bolts are not exactly flush with the exit of the bosses, so the numbers above don't clarify that the thickness of the threaded bosses are between 25 and 27mm thick. I don't want to reduce it by 20% and add potential impact forces. I publish them here so that you don't have to do the research. In order to keep the engine in position, you have to remove, measure, and reinstall them one at a time. Since they are open on the inside I plan to get bolts 10mm longer so long as the distance to start of thread is adequate. I could not find these bolts in washer head, but +10mm will allow enough length to add a washer under the head. The upper right bolt can be re-used on the upper left. I purchased three new bolts in 55mm, 70mm (65 was not available), and 90mm length with grade 10.9 washers from:
Bolt Depot - Nuts and Bolts, Screws and Fasteners online"
Another quote from Beemerphile on torque:
"The Givi instructions are simple pictures with little technical information. The NC700X service manual from Honda specifies 54 N-m for the 12mm engine mounting bolts. Since they are extra fine threads into aluminum, make sure that the threads are clean (internally and externally) and approach the torque slowly. I normally do it in about three steps."
I followed Lee's instructions and did not have any problem installing the guards.
.
ld_rider
Elite Member
I like these for my DCT model. Was one of the few guards that also protected the transmission cover.
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misterk
Member
what brand are they
2tracker
New Member
ld_rider,
Are your crash bars............ Hepco & Becker or? It would be great to get info on them. TIA!
Are your crash bars............ Hepco & Becker or? It would be great to get info on them. TIA!
ld_rider
Elite Member
They are from a company in the Ukraine. Ordered them about three weeks before my Iron Butt ride this summer but they came in after I had left. I'm very happy with the fit, all mounting bolts (longer than stock where necessary) were included. Instructions were very minimal but not that hard to figure out. The bars cover the transmission side really well and also completely protect the radiator.
The web site
Engine guard, crash bars for DCT for Honda NC700X
is periodically down, which didn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling but in the end I had no issues with shipping or anything else. One of the few crash bars that I found that looked like they were more than just a cosmetic addition or a place to mount pegs/lights. If you click on the link I provided and you get nowhere, try again in a few hours ;-)
Would buy again.
2tracker
New Member
Rob,
Thank you so much! Great photos and supplier URL (It works). It looks like a very extensive (protective cage). Weight? You have made a real useful contribution towards protecting the DCT.
Thank you so much! Great photos and supplier URL (It works). It looks like a very extensive (protective cage). Weight? You have made a real useful contribution towards protecting the DCT.
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randmun
Site Supporter
I also have the DCT and find this option very interesting.
Now that you've had it a while do you have any updates? It appears as though you could mount lights on it and some foot pegs for stretching out your legs.
Now that you've had it a while do you have any updates? It appears as though you could mount lights on it and some foot pegs for stretching out your legs.
