Question Electrical Problem

[RandyM]

DIY guy without a lot of electrical experience. 2014 NC700X. All accessory equipment removed, just stock hook up
After 12 hours of sitting idle the battery is dead. If left on a maintainer/ charger, starts right up. If I remove the negative cable and let sit for 12 hours, reinstall the negative cable it starts right up
Static voltage @13.4V after it's removed from the bike, charged and sitting for 24 hours. Running voltage (installed )@ 3000 RPM at 14.1 V
Bench tested/ analyzed the battery at two auto parts stores and 1 year old battery was good
Parasitic draw test with meter between neg cable (removed) and neg terminal post at .10 mV
Any ideas on next steps would be appreciated and thanks in advance for any help!

 

[670cc]

DIY guy without a lot of electrical experience. 2014 NC700X. All accessory equipment removed, just stock hook up
After 12 hours of sitting idle the battery is dead. If left on a maintainer/ charger, starts right up. If I remove the negative cable and let sit for 12 hours, reinstall the negative cable it starts right up
Static voltage @13.4V after it's removed from the bike, charged and sitting for 24 hours. Running voltage (installed )@ 3000 RPM at 14.1 V
Bench tested/ analyzed the battery at two auto parts stores and 1 year old battery was good
Parasitic draw test with meter between neg cable (removed) and neg terminal post at .10 mV
Any ideas on next steps would be appreciated and thanks in advance for any help!

Just a few questions, first. Static open circuit voltage of a lead acid battery after resting being 13.4 volts seems very high. SOC charts never even go over 13 volts for 100% charge. Is this a lithium battery?

On the parasitic draw test, do you mean 0.10 mA, not mV, or do you mean something else?

How confident are you with the accuracy of your meter?

Did this problem come upon quickly? Was any other work done just prior to the symptoms?

 

[RandyM]

Just a few questions, first. Static open circuit voltage of a lead acid battery after resting being 13.4 volts seems very high. SOC charts never even go over 13 volts for 100% charge. Is this a lithium battery?

On the parasitic draw test, do you mean 0.10 mA, not mV, or do you mean something else?

How confident are you with the accuracy of your meter?

Did this problem come upon quickly? Was any other work done just prior to the symptoms?

sealed battery; I'd have to pop out to read; didn't think lithium, but I'd have to double check
0.1mA yes
No idea on the meter but I can borrow one to double check
Yes, came on quickly
No other work done recently
Thx

 

[INTHEWIND]

DIY guy without a lot of electrical experience. 2014 NC700X. All accessory equipment removed, just stock hook up
After 12 hours of sitting idle the battery is dead. If left on a maintainer/ charger, starts right up. If I remove the negative cable and let sit for 12 hours, reinstall the negative cable it starts right up
Static voltage @13.4V after it's removed from the bike, charged and sitting for 24 hours. Running voltage (installed )@ 3000 RPM at 14.1 V
Bench tested/ analyzed the battery at two auto parts stores and 1 year old battery was good
Parasitic draw test with meter between neg cable (removed) and neg terminal post at .10 mV
Any ideas on next steps would be appreciated and thanks in advance for any help!

What is the cranking voltage?

 

[670cc]

I forgot to ask, what is the age of the battery?

 

[INTHEWIND]

I forgot to ask, what is the age of the battery?

Bench tested/ analyzed the battery at two auto parts stores and 1 year old battery was good

 

[670cc]

At this point, the numbers don't make sense. When that happens during my troubleshooting, I need to step back and confirm that my test instruments and processes are good. Nothing like a bad meter or meter lead, or a misunderstanding of the device's circuit to throw all the results off.

As it was stated that there was no battery self discharge when battery was left disconnected, yet the battery went dead when connected, I have to question the parasitic current drain measurement.

 

[RandyM]

Cold Cranking amps@ 230. Not sure what cranking voltage refers to. Yes, the numbers don't make sense to me either, although I am a novice at electrical. I'll borrow a Fluke and see if the numbers change
Thx

 

[INTHEWIND]

Cranking volts is the VDC when starting the motor.
Shouldnt be less than 10 or 11 VDC.

 

[itsmenc700]

You have to measure, with a meter, the battery volts while pushing the starter button.
That is the cranking volts.

So just re-read your first post.
The draw test would have to be done on the positive terminal not the negative.

 

[670cc]

So just re-read your first post.
The draw test would have to be done on the positive terminal not the negative.

That is incorrect. Either the positive or the negative side can be used. Please explain why you think it is necessary to measure current flow through the battery at the positive terminal, rather than at the negative terminal.

 

[itsmenc700]

The positive is where the action is the negative is not.
If you were an electrical person you would know.

 

[lootzyan]

The positive is where the action is the negative is not.

It's good for a slogan. Not very useful in physics.
The electrons in the circuit prefer to flow from the negative terminal to the positive terminal, so for them, I guess negative is where the action is, right?
But in a closed circuit you can measure the current anywhere you want.

 

[670cc]

The positive is where the action is the negative is not.
If you were an electrical person you would know.

Ooh boy. That is so, so seriously wrong; I can only hope you are joking. If not, you‘d best quit now before you dig a deeper hole.

With a closed circuit, the “action”, or current, through the positive terminal of the battery is equal to the current through the negative terminal. (The only reason it could not be is if the battery case were compromised and somehow current is leaking back to a more positive or more negative point on the motorcycle. I wouldn’t think that even possible without electrolyte also leaking from the case).

I think I am an electrical person. For 40 years I got paid to install, maintain, troubleshoot, and repair computed tomography scanners, magnetic resonance imaging systems, ultrasound imaging, ICU patient monitoring, and x-ray machines. Believe me, that involved a lot of electricity in a very wide variety of ways. Troubleshooting a battery circuit is child’s play.

 

[itsmenc700]

Aside from the physics guys always pointing to the reverse current flow, which no one but them must care about,
YEA I was half asleep writing that.
Sorry for confusing anyone.

 

[TNHoosier]

The positive is where the action is the negative is not.
If you were an electrical person you would know.

Ahhh, a 'hole flow' person.

 

[INTHEWIND]

Ahhh, a 'hole flow' person.

Yup.

 

[INTHEWIND]

Cold Cranking amps@ 230. Not sure what cranking voltage refers to. Yes, the numbers don't make sense to me either, although I am a novice at electrical. I'll borrow a Fluke and see if the numbers change
Thx

Any Updates?

 

[RandyM]

Not really. I put a battery disconnect on the Neg so I can still ride every day. My tender also no longer works, so I bought a Genius 1. Has different settings for different battery types, so I need to verify before hooking up.

 

[Itdoesn'taddup]

If I ran into the problem that you've described, my next move would be to set up the equipment so I could see the parasitic draw and then pull and replace each fuse. I will eliminate a lot of sources for the draw that way. I would plan to make another decision depending on the results I get.