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E-Bay Adjustable Levers installed!

tweak89

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Ordered some adjustable levers from seller 94-racingus. Cost was $46.99 shipped. They were one of the few US sellers with these levers. The majority were asian sellers or Pazzo re-sellers ($179). I had Pazzo levers on my FZ6 and loved the difference in feel they made. You'll hear that a lot from people who have switched to adjustable levers, and it's hard to describe why they feel so different. All I know is that this was one of the first things I looked for when I brought the NC home.

Since I have spent big $$ on exhaust and luggage I thought I'd give these levers a shot. Look to be of good quality. Finish looks good ad fit was perfect. Took all of 5 minutes to install. I'll adjust them as I ride.

Here they are:

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Looks nice and a great price. I have never used adjustables before, but I bought a set of Kanaya short adjustable levers to use with a set of Cycra ProBend handguards on my NC. Serious farkling is about to begin.
 
Those seems to be very similar to mines, if not the same. Also bought through eBay two months ago, very cheap and very happy with them so far. Mainly I was needing to adjust the brake lever and it did the job

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Those are cool tweak. I couldn't find that ebay user. I'd just need the brake lever but if I could find them at that price it wouldn't matter that I was getting both.

Take a look HERE.

They are listed for a CBR900RR, but they are identical to ours. There are a fair number of other vendors as well. But, not many are US sellers.
 
Hi guys/gals. I bought a set of the Pazzo levers and thought I'd give my two cents. Remember, this is just my two cents! I'll start by saying my stock levers are back on the bike. The goods first. The machine work, the color, the adjustment mechanism were all top notch. The bads. No pivot bushing, and no r&d put into the actual lever itself. On these levers, there isn't a bushing. Which means here is nothing to replace if the hole becomes wore out. Its also apparent they took there standard lever and called it good. Before removing the old lever, I marked the actual clutch arm on the casing for engaged and disengaged. After installing the new levers, I could not get the clutch to disengage as far as the stock lever. I adjusted every thing possible to no avail. With just a slightly different curvature, these levers would be perfect. I even cut the levers down a bit, which has rendered them unreturnable of course. The clutch still worked fine of course, however with cable stretch it could be an issue later. The friction zone literally started as soon as let the lever off of the grip. I am a stickler for everything staying in factory spec. I usually love to pay extra for American made items because I know someone out there is still working, but today I am disappointed. For close to $200, you'd think a little more r&d could have went into them. I would even be writing this had I spent $30 on knock offs. Again, this is my point of view. What are viewed as problems to me, others might not even be bothered by. I also hope this all made sense, I already had quite a few beers to ease the pain!
 
Why on earth didn't you return them rather then cut them??? I would have at least swapped them out for shorties to see if that changed your perception.

Still loving my levers!
 
I tried a set of the China levers off eBay too. I found the quality to be really nice, but had an issue. The clutch lever works fine (thought the adjustment is not as much as I would like, it did bring the lever about a half an inch closer to the grip at the lowest setting.) However the brake lever would not engage the micro-switch for the brake light. Also the cam action (profile) where it engages the hydraulic piston was not as good as stock and didn't feel right. I left it off, so now I am using the new clutch lever and stock brake. Works for now, but would like to fix that at some point. I included a pic showing the specific pivot actuator portion of the brake lever (F18). That one doesn't work. I believe the suppliers mix and match sub-components (like F18) to suit a specific bike. Does anyone else with an eBay lever have another version that works? (I may be able to ask for a replacement of that specific portion of the lever I have.)

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My short Kayaba's are working fine - fit, finish, and function. I have found that standard length levers are often crowded at the end if you use handguards. The short Kayabas leave about 12mm of gap between the end of the lever and the backbone of the handguard. Engagement point on the clutch is fine.
 
I got a set of the Chinese knock offs that function as well as the stock levers, but there are a couple issues with them in addition to the lack of bushings. First, while the brake lever fit very well, the clutch was loose and wobbly. I made a thin (.016 inch) brass washer/shim and put it between the top of the lever and the pivot and that fixed the excess play. The second issue was that I had to move the clutch perch until there was about a 3/8 inch gap between the perch and the switch housing. The end of the clutch lever was hitting the inside edge of the bar end weight whenever I pulled in the clutch and chipping the paint on the inside edge of the weight.
I like the feel of the levers and they function well as far as brake light and clutch switch operation, but I'm thinking about ordering a set of the shorty levers so I can move the clutch perch back against the switchgear.

Bob
 
Those of you having issues should post links to the ones you purchased so others might avoid those issues. The ones I bought presented none of the issues brought up by others and are still working great!
 
Those of you having issues should post links to the ones you purchased so others might avoid those issues. The ones I bought presented none of the issues brought up by others and are still working great!



Good idea... ;) Thanks guy for your input...

I am a little worry about buying a bad one... I really do need the clutch lever as my hands are small and more difficult as I ride longer.
 
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