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Chain/Sprocket Advice (Is this a good deal?)

I also used sprocket center to purchase one their "kits" with chain, sprockets, and it came with both clip and rivet master links. Only had to choose brand of chain and sprockets.
 
I also used sprocket center to purchase one their "kits" with chain, sprockets, and it came with both clip and rivet master links. Only had to choose brand of chain and sprockets.

I asked about this when I called and he stated that they do intentionally put both types in the package.
 
So who has the DCT rear sprocket? Sprocket center shows it as 39T, but then shows no 39T on the NC sprocket options.

I'd give them a call. I called them yesterday to clarify something on their listing and they were not aware it was wrong. This tells me the listing is not up to date or scrutinized for accuracy. They may have the sprocket but did not add the option to select it.
 
You know your dealing with a good company when they admit fault and make it right. I ordered my chain and sprokets from Sprocket Center on December 5th. I called Tuesday because I really thought it should have arrived by that point. They had just changed there process to a new method and my order was dropped. It was in the system but did not get shipped. The guy on the other end of the line was mortified and upgraded me to the gold chain ($10 difference) and shipped overnight. I could care less about the gold chain and really did not need it shipped ASAP but it goes to show they care about thier reputation and customers.
 
I have only picked up on this thread now and apologise for not posting sooner.

Whatever about the rear sprocket, I would never use anything other than Honda OEM equipment for the front sprocket. The gearbox sprocket on this bike is floating. That means that it is free to move on the splines when the retaining washer is tightened by the sprocket bolt. If the sprocket is not a perfect fit (as designed by Honda) or of the correct thickness, excessive wear can result on the counter-shaft and the splines. How do I know this ? Many Dominator owners have found this out the hard way when they used other than OEM front sprockets and ended up with prematurely worn splines. This only applies to the front sprocket as the rear is bolted directly to the carrier. I mentioned to my trusty Tech recently that I was changing the chain and sprockets. His response, "make sure you get original Honda sprockets".
 
I have only picked up on this thread now and apologise for not posting sooner.

Whatever about the rear sprocket, I would never use anything other than Honda OEM equipment for the front sprocket. The gearbox sprocket on this bike is floating. That means that it is free to move on the splines when the retaining washer is tightened by the sprocket bolt. If the sprocket is not a perfect fit (as designed by Honda) or of the correct thickness, excessive wear can result on the counter-shaft and the splines. How do I know this ? Many Dominator owners have found this out the hard way when they used other than OEM front sprockets and ended up with prematurely worn splines. This only applies to the front sprocket as the rear is bolted directly to the carrier. I mentioned to my trusty Tech recently that I was changing the chain and sprockets. His response, "make sure you get original Honda sprockets".

Oh now you tell me! :p Just kidding, thanks for the info!
 
That means that it is free to move on the splines when the retaining washer is tightened by the sprocket bolt..

Have a real close look at the front sprocket washer, it is a spring type washer. Torque is every thing on this bolt! I have had 4 different front sprockets now, two Honda and two JT. All have worked great! However, like Griff said put the sprocket in without proper torque on the front sprocket washer and bolt, and it will soon be spinning on the shaft! Now that I think about it, I believe I will change that spring type washer out as I still have the original in the bike.

Sprocket.jpg
 
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Now all this being said,where does one order OEM sprocket and chain?eveytime I look it up I never find OEM from honda
 
Now all this being said,where does one order OEM sprocket and chain?eveytime I look it up I never find OEM from honda

I can't speak for the sprocket but my dealer carries the chain in stock. It must be used on another bike to because they have only sold three or four NCs. They surely would not be keeping a chain around for my bike only. I have met two of the other guys that bought there bike from same store and it will be a while before they need a chain.

Sent from my Galaxy S5
 
Now all this being said,where does one order OEM sprocket and chain?eveytime I look it up I never find OEM from honda

Move up this page. All has been listed on this tread. OEM can be ordered on any dealership website! Shop OEM dealership prices, as some move the parts prices up and some discount.

Don't take the time out for your bike right now, you should be out getting the team ready for Alabama!
 
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dear "Old Can Ride,"
I just ordered my first set of motorcycle chains following your recommendations above for my NC700XD automatic. Got the natural chain kit with rivet style master link from sprocket center.com as per your suggestions . Also ordered the Motion Pro PBR tool as I see many chain replacements in my future. Don't mind doing chain rivet work. Any other suggestions besides the broom handle in the rear wheel and removing the front sprocket first? I was going to order a maintenance manual from Honda to do some reading before doing the actual work. If the chain arrives first (before the manual) should I dive into the job or wait for the book?
Thanks for your knowledgable answers
JABOWLUS
 
There are most times NC7 Honda manuals on Ebay. The chain and sprocket are straight forward jobs. Let me know if you need any advise. Important! Do not over torque the front chain sprocket.
 
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I’ll throw a few things out
First the gear shifter has to come off in order to fully remove the front sprocket cover. I used a sharpie to mark the shifter and the splined shaft so I could get it back on in the exact same position. Also the pinch bolt on the shifter has to come all the way out to get the shifter off the shaft.
Second if changing sprockets I used the broomstick in the spoke to loosen the front sprocket bolt and the nuts on the rear sprocket if changing the rear sprocket too.

Now loosen up the axel and the adjusters.

On doing the chain, the difficult part to me was figuring out how hard to turn on the tool. The tool sets the side plate on the master link and then also stakes the pins. If I remember correctly the master link came with measurements but you need a micrometer for that. So what I did was to go a little at a time with pushing the side plate on until the link started to drag when flexing it. I did the same thing with the pins. A little at a time until there was a good mushroom shape and the link had just a little drag when flexing it.

If you are changing the rear sprocket, when putting everything back together, now is a good time to grease things. I use lithium based wheel bearing grease which is sometimes labeled marine grease or trailer grease. It is normally white. Clean off the axel and put a little coat on it. I also clean off the spacers and light coat the inside and ends of them. The spacers fit into a rubber dust seal that is over the bearings. Don’t remove the seals but gently wipe it off and put some grease inside it where it meets the bearings and the inside lip where the spacers sit. The hub which the sprocket mounts on just slides off the wheel. I do a gentle wipe down and light coat in the inside of it and around the bearing in it. On the wheel side you will see an O-ring. Light grease on it too. This helps keep moisture out and protects against the moisture that will get in.
When putting the rear wheel back on make sure you get the slot on the rear brake bracket lined up with the nub on the swing arm. A little grease inside the hole in the bracket where the axel goes through it doesn’t hurt either.

I think I was able to torque the rear sprocket nuts (in a star pattern) before putting the wheel back on the bike. If not you can snug them up good wait until you have the new chain on and use the broom again to torque to spec. You will need to use the broom to torque the front sprocket.
 
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