Accessory Wiring (Plan/Log)

[AsureDawn]

Got tired of looking at overpriced enclosures that "might" fit the controller I'm using (it's 2.25x2.5x1.25 in), so I lined the bottom with electrical tape leaving ~1mm over all sides, then went around the edge with one + a quarter wrap nice and tight, to keep the tape on the bottom from falling off. Afterwards, stuck some Scotch (3M) fastener, mentioned in previous post, to the bottom and stuck it on the fairing. It does not budge, just need to be careful to keep it dry until I get something to keep water from splashing on it.

That area seems to stay pretty clean, so I may not need to worry unless if I leave it out in the rain. Might just get a plastic sheet, cut it to size and zip tie it to the fairing over the electronic, and get a small rain cover for the "dash" area to keep water out when stationary.

 

[AsureDawn]

Alright, it's done! (well...mostly)

Grips and heating elements installed. Should've filed/sanded down the throttle tube...meh. Removing the old grips involved much twisting and rotating of a screwdriver, no cutting required. Installation of new grips involved much twisting and pushing of the grip, some 5-minute epoxy, lots of frustration and a blister on one hand. Should've used a different adhesive. lol
Throttle grip isn't going anywhere, clutch grip turns with moderate force, but is stationary under normal riding conditions. Wouldn't move if I had not failed in epoxying the heatshrink under the grip to the bar.
Right side heater wires are zipped together, and routed through a cut I made in the grip (ugh), under the bar, and tied to the other wires on that side.
Left side heater wires are split, wrapping around the bar in opposite directions, then tied together in the back before being routed and tied to the other wires on that side.

Wire from each side paired with a wire from the other side (doesn't matter which, as it'll make heat either way), crimped together and spliced to a single larger gage wire. Note the insulation doesn't go into the crimp, it's just really close to it. Splices offset by ~1", to keep the bundle compact.

Heatshrink, so we can be safe! Also went over with a larger, single layer 2:1 heatshrink and zip-tied the ends, but apparently I forgot to take a photo of that. :/

All the wires terminated with rings. Two are from the 3CS harness to bring power to the controller, the other two are for the heater elements.

All wired up--note the wires are swapped, this because the wires from the 3CS are first spliced together with the SAE connector that goes to the handlebars, and I had wired that backwards in the connector. Hopefully having them this way will remind me if I ever have to pull them off.

Bottom of the controller, since I didn't get a photo for the previous post.

Installed in the fairing.


Tapped 3CS relay into the light-blue/white wire on the right turn signal (careful you don't tap the wire that's just light-blue, or you'll only have power when your blinkers are flashing). I hooked up the original pot (because I'm currently failing at soldering), installed the fuse, and tested the grips. They work! Right side gets hot a bit faster than the left, and remains a bit hotter as it runs, but not unbearably. Left side is warm enough for the mild winters we usually get down here. After testing, I removed the pot (because it's on short, 6" leads) and road over to meet up for a ride with my Dad, to find that it runs full-blast with no pot installed. No biggie, just unplugged at the 3CS for now until I finish fiddling with the new pot.

 

[rymech]

What was the reason for doing your own controller rather than just getting a set of heated grips? Sorry if I missed the point. Excellent work! Clean and proper.

 

[AsureDawn]

Thanks!
Mostly, I wanted heated grips that were PWM controlled, I wanted to be able to change the grips without getting a whole new heated grip set ($80+), and I wanted to see if I could do it myself.

 

[rymech]

If my grips ever fail I'll give this a shot, I like it.

 

[AsureDawn]

This'll probably be the last update:
After washing the bike, the control board had obviously gotten wet (not really surprising), so I'll def have to cover it. On the bright side, think I've found a solution. Altoids tins are just about perfect in size, just a bit short in height. Being as I have two, I'll probably take the lids off of them, cut a notch or two in one for the wires, clean'em and spray a couple layers of clear-coat enamel (for rust prevention). I'll line one with rubber if I can find some, then find some way to secure the two halves together (hinges or rubber bands, likely). Should look pretty neat when finished. Could even glue the lid on the bottom of one half for a finishing touch.

 

[livelyjay]

Bringing this back from the dead. I just got my NC700 and I need to fix the previous owners accessory light hack job and add my own accessories. I just found this product by Painless and it looks like a solid solution. Only problem is it might be too big to stuff under the plastics, so it might have to go in the frunk.

Painless Relay Fuse Box

 

[rippin209]

Bringing this back from the dead. I just got my NC700 and I need to fix the previous owners accessory light hack job and add my own accessories. I just found this product by Painless and it looks like a solid solution. Only problem is it might be too big to stuff under the plastics, so it might have to go in the frunk.

Painless Relay Fuse Box

The link you put isn't working for me.
This is the fuse box I used, using a long power wire I was able to put it on the left side under the body work.

GXG-1987 Mini 6 Way Blade Fuse Box Holder APM ATM 5A 10A 25A for Car Boat Marine Trike Amazon.com: GXG-1987 Mini 6 Way Blade Fuse Box Holder APM ATM 5A 10A 25A for Car Boat Marine Trike: Automotive

 

[livelyjay]

Sorry about my link not working. It is Painless Wiring model 70207 (half always on, half acc on) and model number 70217 (all circuits acc on).
It's basically the same thing you linked, only pre-wired with a relay, circuit breaker, and harness and you only get 7 channels because one channel is used for the connected relay.

 

[GgarryP]

Sorry about my link not working. It is Painless Wiring model 70207 (half always on, half acc on) and model number 70217 (all circuits acc on).
It's basically the same thing you linked, only pre-wired with a relay, circuit breaker, and harness and you only get 7 channels because one channel is used for the connected relay.

This looks like a good solution which includes a relay for switched circuits. I hope to install soon.
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