Recent content by AK64

De-farkled my NC700X yesterday, I’m picking up a 2017 Africa Twin Friday. I’ll post a Hepco & Becker skid plate and and maybe a couple more things in the days to come. I too will miss the frunk, but not the 17” front wheel on washed out dirt roads.

If you can find roads with curves and little traffic, start there—slowly. There are plenty of videos on YouTube that show proper technique. I’m a fan of MC Rider. Eventually, your comfort level and skill will improve. Until then, let your friends zip through. Ride at your comfort level. Don’t...

The minimum I wear is helmet, gloves, jacket, long pants, boots. Most of the time, I wear over pants and ear plugs. I’m curious about the problem with steel toed boots. They’ve protected my big toes on two crashes. Other than the risk of the steel getting crushed, what’s the problem? Objective...

I have these on my 2012 NC700X. They make it easier to pick up the bike after a drop. They don’t stick out far enough to act as foot rests, like many of the cruiser bars though. These bars have been great for protecting the bike, one drop on the right side, and a low speed crash on dirt/loose sand.

Thanks Potter0o. I’m thinking about using the repair you suggest, and using a plastic screw. This way if the repair fails, I only have to destroy a cheap fastener and not the lid — like I did a couple weeks ago.

Has anyone come across a battery box lid “nut” that was stripped in the frunk? Meaning that the threads are fine, but the metal part turns in the plastic of the frunk/luggage box. This is the metal part into which the 5X15mm screws thread to attach the battery box cover/lid. I’d rather not run...

Excellent post by beemerphile.

I should have mentioned in the original post that it’s not the original battery; it’s a Parts Unlimited battery, YTZ12S. I replaced it today with a Yuasa. We’ll see how it does.

I cranked up the bike this morning, started immediately, rode ~10 miles and stalled at a traffic light. ( I think I stalled it, hadn’t had coffee yet — before 5:00 AM). When I tried to start it again, it behaved as if the battery was very low — barely turned over the engine before the starter...

Thanks 670. I had checked out the tire size calculators; it looks like there was a 0.9% difference in the diameter -- the 150/70 being larger, in diameter. Perhaps it's a combination of the diameter difference and the fact that I changed them in the Fall and did most of my riding when it's...

Good point! The weather is warming up lately. I'll see what happens.

When I bought my 2012 700X, it had a 170/60 shinko street tire on the rear. I got mid to upper 60's mpg routinely. I put 705's on the bike, 150/70 on the rear and my mileage has dropped by~10 mpg. Has anyone else seen this kind of drop in mileage?

I installed these last weekend. I trimmed them down exactly as the guys at Web Bike World did, no damage to the heating elements. I look forward to cooler weather so I can try them out. I have used "Hot Grips" on my last 3 bikes.

Indeed, 14 guage will work. If I had a spool, I'd use it in that application, relatively short run, soldered connections. I don't know who'd bother with 10 gauge.

14 would be the minimum, assuming you're only running a few feet, <10', of wire. That's assuming 6 amps per horn.