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Battery Charging? New to that!

If you try jumper cables then be careful - a car battery is likely to have about 100AH capacity (compared to 11 for the bike) and could damage the battery and even some of the bike electrics.

OK, not worth risking, so NO JUMPING WITH A CAR.

back to trying to get the fuse box open...

If the fuse is blown, replace it, try to start it.

If the fuse is NOT Blown, drive to the dealer, buy another NC700x battery ( a new one), and hook that up to the tender.

I'm under the gun for time, so if it can charge in 8 hours, I'll be OK... otherwise, the end of this painful little drama comes a week later.
 
I have a Sperry Dm-350A volt meter... at least i think it 's a volt meter...

It has two probes: red/blck
it has four holes to connect the two probes to. black goes to "com" and red goes to "(that circle with the break at the bottom?)"... I can never remember those two, but on a guitar pickup it doesn't matter since i'm measuring resistance not voltage.
First of all, do you know what is the correct way to connect the probes to the volt meter?
the other two holes are "A" and "V".... I don't think I've ever used those, though it might be different for testing a 12 V battery.

The next hurdle... is that red dial in the middle. I set it to "20K" for a guitar pickup.... what do you set it for when it's a 12V battery?

1) Turn the red dial to the Black "V" side that reads for 2 or 20. (not the red V~)

2) Red probe goes far right in the "V" hole (Voltage)

3) Black goes next to it in the "Com" hole (Common)

CHris s giving you a warning based on 100AH which has no bearing on the charge delivered. I would not go with CHris' knowledge of electricity.

Your bike will only draw the current that it needs. Your house has a 200amp service feeding it, but you only consume what your appliances require. You do not have 200 amps being crammed into your house wires at all times... that's ridiculous thinking.
 
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On a side note, are the instructions for fuse box removal in the service manual?


Probably. I have been unable to locate that as the word "fuse" DOES NOT appear in the SERVICE manual index.
Section 21 deals with "Battery/Charging System", but has no instructions on how to remove the fuse box.
 
Jump the battery, you'll be riding in 10 minutes...
Hooking up a brand new battery is way more dangerous than jumping your perfectly good, used battery...lol

Chris has warned me that "jumping" could blow out the NC700x electronics.
I can't risk that.
Can you imagine what it would cost to replace all that?

I'm going to set up the yellow box the way to described and test the voltage.
 
Jump the battery, you'll be riding in 10 minutes...

Buy a new battery ?!?!? Hooking up a brand new battery is way more dangerous than jumping your perfectly good, used battery...lol

Or you could pick up a Batter Tender plus and be riding in 10-12 hours.
 
Did you even read my post?

I just went back over the posts so far and read yours. I can tell by your comment that I've missed something, but I honestly don't know what it is.
'Sorry, I'm sure it's just something I don't see yet.

You gave a really good description of how to open the fuse box. Is that the part I missed?
Could you maybe hint at what part I missed? 'would make it easier to find...(smile)
 
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yes, and i'm attempting to respond to each as i find them. I corrected the problem about "service" manual vs. "owner's" manual.
Is there something else I missed?


All this talk of jump starting is for naught, if it's simply a blown fuse. Sure, you can diagnose a blown fuse by trying to jump start, but that's a bass ackwards way of doing it.

Do what Jay says with the voltmetre, the way he's told you to hook it up, and it will tell you the current (lol there's a pun in there somewhere) charged voltage of your battery. This is a good thing to know regardless of anything else anyway.

There's no way an 80% charged battery shouldn't light up your instruments, lights, etc. It probably would start the bike as well.

If the Battery Tender showed it was charging your battery, then that means your battery is more than likely ok. It will let you know if your battery is knackered and won't accept a charge, with it's light squence, I believe.

This leaves the fuses, and/or a poor battery connection.

Both those are the simplest things to check, and should be done before doing anything else.
 
I just went back over the posts so far and read yours. I can tell by your comment that I've missed something, but I honestly don't know what it is.
'Sorry, I'm sure it's just something I don't see yet.

I'm now lost too, lol :confused:

You said you couldn't open the fuse box. Is what I typed not working for you? You said you didn't know about fuses and their states of good/bad. I showed teh peekchures.

Don't give up, don't get frustrated! Step by step my friend, and we'll walk you through this to beat it! ;)
 
If we go back to the beginning...lol, Strat drained the bike leaving the GPS charging. Um.... If you drain the, battery jump it. (simple answer)

All the confusion came because the battery tender jr. is a garbage piece(in my opinion)

Why did fuses even get involved in the first place? And ya, you could check the fuse if you want, but it seems that is a difficult process with the NC.

I've already jumped my NC 3 different times cause of leaving the key in it when I got home...lol
It takes 10 minutes, end of story.

JUMP IT !! If the jump doesn't work, try the fuse.

Fuses Good?

Then the search party for the loose connection (if you didn't notice the bad connection when you were jumping the battery...duh, then it's somewhere in the nether-regions of the NC...lol... but HIGHLY UNLIKELY)
 
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the Sperry DM-350A (set up the say Jay Fridays advised) gives a reading of

7.35

that's with the battery tender UNPLUGGED from ANY power supply.

Now it's on to L.B.S. and his instructions on how to remove the fuse box.
 
If we go back to the beginning...lol, Strat drained the bike leaving the GPS charging. Um.... If you drain the, battery jump it. (simple answer)

Why did fuses even get involved in the first place. And ya, you could check the fuse if you want, but it seems that is a difficult process with the NC.

I've already jumped my NC 3 different times cause of leaving the key in it when I got home...lol
It takes 10 minutes, end of story.

OK.. I have one opinion that says I could blow out the electronics by jumping. Can't risk that. Too expensive to fix if it happens.

Fuses come into it for logic's sake.

The LCD display shows no sign of life. Why?

1) the battery is dead
2) a fuse is blown

It makes sense to check these two since those are the only two I have ANY hope of fixing.
If it's something else, then WE can't fix it at home.

If the battery is supplying electricity to the electrical system, but no power gets to the LCD, then something in the electrical system is amiss...
like... a fuse...

doesn't it seem logical to check the fuse?

If the battery is supplying current AND the fuses are all working, then something in the electrical system is NOT working, and that something is something we can't fix.
 
If we go back to the beginning...lol, Strat drained the bike leaving the GPS charging. Um.... If you drain the, battery jump it. (simple answer)

Why did fuses even get involved in the first place. And ya, you could check the fuse if you want, but it seems that is a difficult process with the NC.

I've already jumped my NC 3 different times cause of leaving the key in it when I got home...lol
It takes 10 minutes, end of story.


Maybe I misread in this boobdoggle of a thread lol, but I thought he said he had an at least 80% charged battery, but when he turned on his key, there was no instrument lights or any other sign of life. That, to my humble knowledge, would pretty much rule out a jump start being the be-all-end-all of discovering why there was no power...
 
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