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Question Good inexpensive caliper?

Rabbit

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Looking for a decent digital caliper to tackle my chain replacement that’s upcoming. I’d prefer not to have to buy a 200$ mitutoyo for a job I’ll do once every two years. Any recommendations on something that’s accurate and affordable? Not sure if the 35$ husky from home despot will do or if there’s a better option.
 
I have a Mitutoyo, Amazon something, and Harbor Freight. Ranked at 10/10, 7/10, and 4/10 respectively. Wish I remembered the Amazon brand because it is definitely a good value, I will post it tomorrow.

The HF is clunky and automatically re-zeroes itself sometimes but is accurate, probably due to the grimy jobs in my garage. The Amazon I keep calibrated for work and it has not slipped over 3 years. Probably on par with the Husky for build quality and accuracy.
 
Why do you need a caliper to replace a chain? Ive never used one for that job.
To measure the flair of the master link rivets and once I smoosh them and to measure the protrusion of the master link pins from the face plate to make sure they are the correct width. The workshop manual includes specs for both.
 
I have used one hundreds of times that I got from an auto parts store. Definitely not something you need a $200 tool for. I’d say go to harbor freight and get one. Personally I can’t stand the digital ones, I’d buy a normal dial caliper if I were you. For an infrequent job you don’t want to replace the battery every time you use it.

 
I have used one hundreds of times that I got from an auto parts store. Definitely not something you need a $200 tool for. I’d say go to harbor freight and get one. Personally I can’t stand the digital ones, I’d buy a normal dial caliper if I were you. For an infrequent job you don’t want to replace the battery every time you use it.

Yeah dial caliper might be the way to go
 
To measure the flair of the master link rivets and once I smoosh them and to measure the protrusion of the master link pins from the face plate to make sure they are the correct width. The workshop manual includes specs for both.
This thread got me rethinking about something regarding chain master links.

History: I was riding to Alaska with our forum member “Fuzzy”. While on the Alaska Highway, the dealer installed drive chain peeled off his Kawasaki 300. He had a spare master link of the correct size, clip style. We spent a very long time trying to reinstall the chain with this master link. We could not get the clip to fit. The pins were too short, or the side plate was too thick. We finally just beat the pin with a wrench to sort of mushroom the pin head as a temporary install. It was then discovered that the dealer installed a chain brand not of Fuzzy’s request, and the chain brand did not match his spare master link brand. Possible explanation for the inability to install the link: even with identical chain sizes, detailed dimensions may not exactly match between chain brands.

This leads me to my question. If the Honda service manual specifies dimensions for proper rivet link installation, are those dimension specs universal across all chain brands, or perhaps specific to the OEM chain choices that Honda uses? Or is there really enough difference to make it matter?

Nonetheless, I make sure my master links match the chain exactly.
 
I have a Mitutoyo digital caliper for about 20 years. Rarely used these days, mostly to find out the diameter of a drill bit or bolt. But I have to buy new batteries to be able to use it when needed. But in my toolbox drawer I also have a once-common vernier caliper that I've owned for over 30 years. I've had several of them over the years and they've never failed to measure more accurately. The dial caliper can be damaged very easily by accident, especially if it is cheaply made. A digital caliper is fine if you already wear glasses, but in those rare cases, get a reliable vernier caliper and use glasses if necessary. Their accuracy is 0.01mm. With such precision, you can build a rocket to the moon.
 
I would venture to say that the majority of chains that are replaced are not measured. Just as the majority of bolts that are tightened are not tightened with a torque wrench.
 
How do you replace it without measuring?
Do you have installation instructions from the chain manufacturer? For me it would be more important than recommendations from the service manual or others.
 
Do you have installation instructions from the chain manufacturer? For me it would be more important than recommendations from the service manual or others.
Didn’t come with the chain but I found them online. Good call since they are a bit different.
 
I did the rivet links for awhile, but I have several clip style links around so I’ve started using them. The VX chains I get are always packaged with a clip link. No need to measure anything, just push the side plate on far enough to install the clip.
 
I did the rivet links for awhile, but I have several clip style links around so I’ve started using them. The VX chains I get are always packaged with a clip link. No need to measure anything, just push the side plate on far enough to install the clip.
I had the option for either and selected the rivet style. I like the simplicity of the clip type but am just worried about it falling off. I know most folks say they’ve never had a problem but there are plenty of stories of clips coming apart and damaging the engine or something.
 
I had the option for either and selected the rivet style. I like the simplicity of the clip type but am just worried about it falling off. I know most folks say they’ve never had a problem but there are plenty of stories of clips coming apart and damaging the engine or something.
I’m a believer. My clip link chain currently has 15,000 miles on it. Properly installed, I have no worries. However, there’s nothing wrong with the rivet type either.
 
I'm also using a clip link chain. I'd use a rivet link if it had 100 horses or more.
My opinion: I figure the power to the rear wheel is transferred through the pins and the plates, and that’s where the strength needs to be. The clip or the mushroomed pins is simply the retaining method for lateral movement of the plate. I don’t consider the retaining method crucial to the power handling requirement.
 
My opinion: I figure the power to the rear wheel is transferred through the pins and the plates, and that’s where the strength needs to be. The clip or the mushroomed pins is simply the retaining method for lateral movement of the plate. I don’t consider the retaining method crucial to the power handling requirement.
I believe this is true. However I also think that lateral forces can be introduced and in that the rivet is more secure.
 
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