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Extreme Farkling - Handlebars and Controls

Beemerphile

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In the quest for perfect ergonomics, I determined that I needed less sweep on the handlebars and an inch more width. I also like bars with some flex in them so the solution was to find the right set of 1-1/8" aluminum bars without a cross-brace The rise of the current bars is fine, but I wanted more adjustability and I needed a transition from the 7/8" clamps to the 1-1/8" bars so I picked up a set of Rox 2" conversion risers. I also determined that the Renthal 819-01 Fatbar (designed for the Yamaha YZF450 Quad) gave the rest of the rise plus the sweep and width that I needed. For wind and impact protection I installed a set of Cycra Probend hand guards designed to work with 1-1/8" handlebars. I have found that levers always end up being too long to allow optimal adjustment inside the hand guards and since I wanted to install adjustable levers anyway, I got a set of short (147mm) Kanaya levers.

I have test-fitted the right side and drilled the handlebars to locate the throttle and right side switches. It is only a temporary fit-up because I am going to install heated grips while I have everything apart. Here are some progress shots of it...

Rox 2" Conversion Risers installed on the handlebar clamp:

DSC00563.jpg

Fit the throttle to the bar before you place it in the clamp, otherwise the cables will have to be removed:

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This shows the Kanaya 147mm lever with the stock controls reinstalled. To prevent binding on the hand guards, locate the throttle so that there is about 1/16" of handlebar showing past the end of the grip. Drill the throttle. Then locate and drill the switch locating pin hole to match the throttle. The brake lever bracket is undrilled so that you can adjust the angle:

DSC00566.jpg
 
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Some shots of the "finished" product:

Wind deflector...

DSC00567.jpg

Driver's side view...

DSC00568.jpg

As you can see, the longer lever would not have worked so well...

DSC00569.jpg
 
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Hi Lee,

I also used these little adhesive mirrors:


Until I found these extenders for the arm:

IMAG0055.jpg


Front view:

IMAG0056.jpg


They provide a best adjustable field of view behind and above the shoulders. And the mirrors remain without vibrations.

Just in case you didn't know them and you want to try it

I follow your farkling threads with a lot of interest, much appreciated
 
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Thanks. I have looked at those, but I am really not getting too much shoulder in the rearview. I may look at them again after I get the Frankenbike back together and ridable. I like a bit of shoulder in the picture for calibrating where things are. Also, every vehicle I own has blind spot mirrors and I have adopted into my normal scan. I'd feel vulnerable without them.
 
Here is the "final final" for the handlebar controls - well, except that the Crampbuster and GoCruise aren't on it at the moment. The heated grips are installed and are covered by a set of Grip Puppies which are foam over-grips to build up the diameter. I use these on my BMW over heated grips and the heat (amazingly) comes through just fine.

DSC00571.jpg
 
Do the hand guards block only half the grip or is that a photo illusion? Is the bar end mount with the guard a weighted insert? I am in search of hand guards now.
 
Do the hand guards block only half the grip or is that a photo illusion? Is the bar end mount with the guard a weighted insert? I am in search of hand guards now.

It is an illusion. The grips are fully covered. See extra pic below. My bike now has 1-1/8" Renthal bars and no end-weights, so the ones you would use with the stock bars are different. Talk to Porko, as he has a set of Cycra Probends with the stock bars. There is also a set by Barkbusters that is designed specifically for the NC700x. Twisted Throttle has them on order from Barkbusters in Australia but they are not on their web site yet. Twisted Throttle is not customer-oriented enough to call you when they receive them. It is easier for them if you just check every day. No thanks.

DSC00567.jpg
 
I love these Cycra Probends, they look perfect. Unfortunatelly I already have a pair of Acerbis Dual Road waiting to be fitted :(
 
I got tired of fishing around in my pocket for the 2-channel wireless control for my heated clothing, so I velcroed it to the top of my radar detector enclosure. I also stuck a small wet compass on there in case all the nav-aids break at once.

Much easier to use...

DSC00911.jpgDSC00912.jpg
 
I see you use velcro a lot. Who is the manufacturer? I would like to know if you don't have issues with heat peeling it off
 
I see you use velcro a lot. Who is the manufacturer? I would like to know if you don't have issues with heat peeling it off

Most of it is junk. For lighter work I use Velcro brand Industrial (not heavy duty - it is mis-named). For heavier work I use 3M Dual Lock. All that I have used on the NC so far has been Velcro Industrial. It sticks well in hot weather.
 
Handlebar change

Lee,
Your posts are great. I'm an old codger as well, and want a bit more rise and wider bars. I have a pair of Flanders Clubman bars from my Sportster, although Chrome, might work.
How much time would you say you spent changing the bars, not including the the hand guards and other add-ons. I'm afraid I don't have the skill to or tools to do it, and will ask my local motorcycle shop to do it, but want to know how much time to expect to pay for.

Thanks again.

Paul
 
Lee,
Your posts are great. I'm an old codger as well, and want a bit more rise and wider bars. I have a pair of Flanders Clubman bars from my Sportster, although Chrome, might work.
How much time would you say you spent changing the bars, not including the the hand guards and other add-ons. I'm afraid I don't have the skill to or tools to do it, and will ask my local motorcycle shop to do it, but want to know how much time to expect to pay for.

Thanks again.

Paul

Bar changes are not difficult, but I believe that Harley uses one inch bars vs. the 7/8" bars of the Honda. I adapted a 1-1/8" diameter bar to my Honda, but even if you adapted the clubman bars to the handlebar clamp, you'd have the diameter problem on the levers and controls as well. With proper diameter bars, the only two caveats are to install the throttle before you mount the bars and to properly drill the indexing holes for the control units. Some have ground off the indexing lugs, but I do not personally agree with that approach.
 
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