Battery drain question

[Taylore]

Hey all,
I just got back in town from a trip, was gone about 5 days, and in that time my battery appears to have drained enough to stop me from riding this morning.

The only thing I've changed recently was adding this led flash controller to get my LEDs under control (NEW - (07~11) HONDA CBR600RR CBR 600 RR LED Flasher Relay 4 Pin | eBay)
I'm thinking this must have slowly drained my battery, but I'm wondering if anyone has dealt with something like this or if there is anything I can do.

I also have a sound bomb horn hooked up to the bike, but that is the extent of the electrical changes I've made.

Any advice?

 

[Deleted member 5383]

Not quite an answer to your query, but dude, get a smart battery maintainer -- keeps the battery healthy and makes sure the NC is always ready to ride.

 

[Taylore]

Not quite an answer to your query, but dude, get a smart battery maintainer -- keeps the battery healthy and makes sure the NC is always ready to ride.

Oh I have one! I just don't want or need to have it plugged in every night.
In the hot summer months I never need it plugged in with how much riding I'm doing. Definitely a way to avoid this but definitely not a long term solution. I have it charging up right now to make sure it's good for tonight/tomorrow.

 

[lootzyan]

You should have done battery current leakage tests with new controller, with OEM controller and without controller as a reference point.
By 2012 Service Manual current leakage should be less than 1.2 mA, but by 2014 SM for CTX700 it is <0.2 mA.

View attachment 32804

 

[Taylore]

You should have done battery current leakage tests with new controller, with OEM controller and without controller as a reference point.
By 2012 Service Manual current leakage should be less than 1.2 mA, but by 2014 SM for CTX700 it is <0.2 mA.

View attachment 32804

Thanks lootzyan. I think in my frustration in finding a damn flash controller that worked correctly, I completely forgot to do these things. I knew there was a way to test but didn't know the right thing to look for. Appreciate it, excuse my lack-of-sleep-and-frustration-based idiocy

 

[L.B.S.]

Taylore, I have one of these for my unfortunate personal permanent electrissy idiocy




XP-3 MICRO-START PPS – Antigravity Batteries


Like getting a flat tire, I am exceedingly miffed if I am prevented from going for a ride when I want to, so flat repair kits and battery boosters are totally awesome things for me

 

[Taylore]

Taylore, I have one of these for my unfortunate personal permanent electrissy idiocy

View attachment 32806


XP-3 MICRO-START PPS – Antigravity Batteries


Like getting a flat tire, I am exceedingly miffed if I am prevented from going for a ride when I want to, so flat repair kits and battery boosters are totally awesome things for me

I should probably get one of those. Seeing as I have the "Frunk" I might as well stuff it full of goodies

 

[ste7ios]

Nice but as a last resort (e.g. on a trip). The best is to fully charge the battery with a charger.

An empty battery will stress unnecessarily the charging system which is design to maintain a full charge, not charging an empty one.

 

[lootzyan]

...An empty battery will stress unnecessarily the charging system which is design to maintain a full charge, not charging an empty one.

Not really. NC's shunt type voltage regulator/rectifier is "happier" with relatively bigger current load. Less current is shunted to ground - less overheating.

 

[PortlandZinMan]

Taylore, I have one of these for my unfortunate personal permanent electrissy idiocy

View attachment 32806


XP-3 MICRO-START PPS – Antigravity Batteries


Like getting a flat tire, I am exceedingly miffed if I am prevented from going for a ride when I want to, so flat repair kits and battery boosters are totally awesome things for me

I totally missed the fact that if I killed the battery on my DCT, that push starting was not an option... Thanks for the reminder. I am looking at my new XP-3 ordered from Amazon. Nice unit with the case and all. Hope to never have to use it! Justified this as a safety item and thus does not impact my promise to stop with the farkles!

 

[mrbios]

Not quite an answer to your query, but dude, get a smart battery maintainer -- keeps the battery healthy and makes sure the NC is always ready to ride.

Should not be needed. I was gone for over 2 months and when I got back - bike started with no problem. Live in San Diego where it doesn't get cold but still no maintainer should be needed especially after 5 days or even a few weeks. Over the winter or any long storage - definitely.

 

[INTHEWIND]

Blast from the past.

 

[the Ferret]

Finally answered after 5 years lol

 

[ST13Fred]

Heavy lead acid batteries are old school technology compared to the new age light lithium batteries that are in many applications now.
I converted months ago on my NC when the OEM battery would not hold charge. I call them electronic batteries as they have a circuit board but recommend its' own dedicated charger.
You will never look back.

I'm curious however, why my Hybrid Accord, with its' high voltage lithium battery is still equipped with a lead acid battery for starting the Atkinson cycle gasoline engine.

 

[670cc]

Heavy lead acid batteries are old school technology compared to the new age light lithium batteries that are in everything now.
I converted months ago on my NC when the OEM battery would not hold charge. I call them electronic batteries as they have a circuit board but recommend its' own dedicated charger.
You will never look back.

I'm curious however, why my Hybrid Accord, with its' high voltage lithium battery is still equipped with a lead acid battery for starting the Atkinson cycle gasoline engine.

I assume as most automotive electronics currently in use tends to be designed for 12 volt power, it makes sense to have a 12 volt electrical system battery separate from the high voltage traction battery. My Chevy Bolt EV with 65kWh high voltage traction battery also has a standard automotive lead acid 12 volt battery which I assumed was for control circuits, lighting, and accessories. Maybe they still use lead acid for the 12 volt because they are readily available and inexpensive. Shaving a few pounds off a 1.5-2 ton vehicle is probably unimportant.

 

[davidc83]

Heavy lead acid batteries are old school technology compared to the new age light lithium batteries that are in everything now.
I converted months ago on my NC when the OEM battery would not hold charge. I call them electronic batteries as they have a circuit board but recommend its' own dedicated charger.
You will never look back.

I'm curious however, why my Hybrid Accord, with its' high voltage lithium battery is still equipped with a lead acid battery for starting the Atkinson cycle gasoline engine.

Your 12 v probably does not start the gas engine. I have 2 hybrids in the driveway, Ford and Toyota, and neither has a starter. In both, the 12v turns on the electronics; the hybrid batteries turns on the electric motor and the electric motor starts the ICE if needed.

 

[ST13Fred]

Just watched a 15 minute U-tube video 'The battery basics: Understanding lithium-ion, lead acid and more', with many others available. Lead-acid started it all and has evolved into a complex industry.

 

[MZ5]

Lead-acid is simply a better choice and better value in some climates, including mine. Even the lithium sales people will tell you that, if you find one who's not just a greedy shill. There's a HUGE problem with the lithium traction batteries in Nissan's Leaf, for example, which does not have a cooling system. In this climate, they simply fail.

 

[ST13Fred]

Agree.
(Excessive) heat is the enemy of lithium; everything for that matter. All Honda (and probably all) hybrids have their own dedicated fan cooling system for the traction battery.

An iphone case is made of heat dissipating metal and will overheat with extended use if covered in nonconductive plastic.
My phone is encased in a rubber type protective casing. I cut the back out for heat dissipation.