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A few mods so far to help w suspension and fun factor

So far ridden about 1000 miles and changed oil and filters ,cleaned K&N , adjusted valves ,installed foot shift kit and today got the Penske 8981 w remote compression adjuster , it's got adjustable compression ,rebound ride height and preload and was set up for my weight and riding style by Ed Sorbo of Lindemann Engineering for my 4th gen VFR ( that I'll be selling since I can't operate the clutch ) I'll still have to set sag etc on it after new Pirelli tires are mounted , also have to change fork seal and pull and put 4th gen VFR caps on that have preload adjusters. Then see if all this has made a significant improvement in handling and fun factor in the twisties. Has anyone installed tapered roller bearings? Thinking of doing them also , but not to bad for a 1 handed old dude, who's trying to learn his new bike.
PS thanks to my significant other ,who helped w the Penske install today and went riding in the neighborhood for her 3rd time ever
 
As you can see , I put it up on the centerstand, and removed the rear wheel and exhaust, before I tackled the shock . The stock shock was easy to remove , about an hr. But the Penske is a pain , because it's 12mm longer and was hitting the centerstand w the sub assy so I hand to remove that and grind it and Now I need some adjustable lowering links , so putting stock shock back on. But if your Ohlins is 310 mm eye to eye you should be able to do it in 2-3 hrs max , top shock bolt is a PIA
 
trjerm said:
As you can see , I put it up on the centerstand, and removed the rear wheel and exhaust, before I tackled the shock . The stock shock was easy to remove , about an hr. But the Penske is a pain , because it's 12mm longer and was hitting the centerstand w the sub assy so I hand to remove that and grind it and Now I need some adjustable lowering links , so putting stock shock back on. But if your Ohlins is 310 mm eye to eye you should be able to do it in 2-3 hrs max , top shock bolt is a PIA
Click to expand...
Hmm. My Nc is a 2021. I believe the shock length is longer than the earlier ones. Even so it’s going to be about 10 mm longer. I guess I’ll just have to try it and see how it fits.
 
I can attest to Race Tech Gold Valve Emulators and fork springs specific to rider weight drastically improving handling. If you have to replace fork seals, might as well throw those goodies in too! That's what I did when my forks began leaking. Well, I let Thermosman Suspensions do the work for me. Lol

FB_IMG_1655818847164.jpg
 
TacomaJD , what rear shock did you use along with the race tech gold valves , I'm toying with the Idea of using 94-97 VFR internals with gold valves in front forks just to get adjustable preload and I have lot's of VFR parts
 
trjerm said:
TacomaJD , what rear shock did you use along with the race tech gold valves , I'm toying with the Idea of using 94-97 VFR internals with gold valves in front forks just to get adjustable preload and I have lot's of VFR parts
Click to expand...
Still on stock rear shock, but I have the preload maxed out, which raises ride height a bit, and it helped significantly. Geometry from front to rear ride height plays a big part in handling. Before I maxed out preload, it felt like it want to push wide through turns on the track. Then when I got the forks built, it was a whole game changer. On track, might I add. I have a bone stock 2016 NC700X that I ride on street and only thing I have done to it is maxed the preload on the rear shock and it handles plenty fine for me - on the street. No desire for any suspension mods on the street NC.

However, once funds allow it, I want to put an Ohlins rear shock on the track NC. They're only $600, which isn't terrible for Ohlins hardware.
 
TacomaJD said:
I can attest to Race Tech Gold Valve Emulators and fork springs specific to rider weight drastically improving handling. If you have to replace fork seals, might as well throw those goodies in too! That's what I did when my forks began leaking. Well, I let Thermosman Suspensions do the work for me. Lol

View attachment 50023
Click to expand...
Nice photo. Do you have the stock footrests on your Nc? I realize that the suspension is higher on the pre 21s, but the footrests on mine ground very easily.

How suited is the gearing for The Gap? I imagine with good tires and the right gearing an Nc should rail through.
 
Yes I imagined the Nc would do well there. Even with the budget suspension I find the front tire grip let’s you know what the bikes doing. That must be one of the most famous photographed corners in the world. A few years ago when the knees were more accommodating lol.A6B1C5E5-3B95-4048-B003-6FE752A5E645.png
 
Gixus said:
Nice photo. Do you have the stock footrests on your Nc? I realize that the suspension is higher on the pre 21s, but the footrests on mine ground very easily.

How suited is the gearing for The Gap? I imagine with good tires and the right gearing an Nc should rail through.
Click to expand...
Well I have a 30mm peg riser on the right peg, and still drag it at times, but the left peg is removed completely and I utilize a highway peg mounted on the front frame rail. I am a left leg below knee amputee and that knee is trashed and won't bend past 90°. It's a goofy setup and looks weird as hell on track, but it works quite well for me given the circumstances.

The static ride height is also a little higher now with the new fork springs and the rear shock preload maxed out.

FB_IMG_1655818867586.jpg
 
TacomaJD said:
Well I have a 30mm peg riser on the right peg, and still drag it at times, but the left peg is removed completely and I utilize a highway peg mounted on the front frame rail. I am a left leg below knee amputee and that knee is trashed and won't bend past 90°. It's a goofy setup and looks weird as hell on track, but it works quite well for me given the circumstances.

The static ride height is also a little higher now with the new fork springs and the rear shock preload maxed out.

View attachment 50046
Click to expand...
Kudos for continuing to ride with such skillful aggression. Apart from riding skills you obviously have athletic ability. For the life of me I find it difficult to understand how you can drag your right knee considering the limitations of your left leg.
 
Well I had to pull the Penke 8981 Back off. I had to knotch the sub assembly pivot because it was 2 blocked on the centerstand cross bar , but it looks like the Penske Spring has to large of an OD 3.44" vs 2.88" OD for stock shock spring and it would hit where the sub assembly mounts to the frame
So either find a smaller OD Penske spring or grind bigger opening or buy a shock designed for the NC700XD. Trying to decide between YSS front and rear, or Cognet front and rear or Race tech modified forks and Ohlins or something for rear shock. I did change the fork oil and it seemed to help a little
Also the Pedal Shifter worked great, much more controllable on steep downhill tight turn entries than in sport mode and having it upshift going into turns
The paddle shifter would do the same thing , but my left hand can't work them :((
 
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