A few people have been scammed on the site, Only use paypal to pay for items for sale by other members. If they will not use paypal, its likely a scam NEVER SEND E-TRANSFERS OF ANY KIND.
Connections looked good but the battery itself was only registering .5 volts.
I was preparing to get a tender but as of late, the bike has been getting plenty of use and (in my opinion) shouldn't need it yet. Thanks for the suggestion though.
My NC7 manual trans would start up this morning. Didn't have a chance to try and jump it yet but it was flat lined, absolutely no juice in the lights, fuel pump, etc.
I have a 65+ mile commute every day and parked it on Thursday after getting some gas. When coming to the bike this morning...
I consider the group on this forum to have a higher than average intelligence, so I bring this random question to anyone with knowledge in the two previously mentioned areas.
I am a professional photographer of sorts, unfortunately that doesn't mean I know much about the art as I use it...
To totally avoid the clunk, while you are downshifting, go from second to first or neutral to first at 7 or 8 mph. At this speed the rear wheel is traveling at the same speed as the engine's idle speed. You may get a slight click but if done right it will simply fall into first.
I took it apart, cleaned off the old grease and reassembled the lever without any grease which appears to have fixed the issue. I'll relube and make sure it stays good.
Looks like since this joint is exposed to the elements it collects moisture, dirt and bugs very easily causing it to gunk up.
Factory lever. Almost like there isn't enough pressure in the line to push it all the way out or maybe like it it isn't lubed well enough. I'm leaning toward not enough pressure though as the lever doesn't feel like it sticks anywhere else in its travel.
Any other ideas?