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Wrist pronation (twisting) and handlebar choice

djsb

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Just had a visit to a Hand therapist for treatment on my sore left wrist (just inflammation). Mentioned to her that I am changing my motorcycle for one with a more upright riding position. She mentioned trying to avoid wrist pronation (twisting) and allowing the wrist to have a more relaxed resting position on the bars. Has anyone changed their handlebars for ones that are more ergonomic and that are more comfortable on the wrists? I already have a pair of 2" ROX risers on order. Any thoughts?

David.
 
If you look at beemerphile’s early modification posts I believe he changed to a more straight across bar so that the hands are closer to a 90 degree angle with the grips. It is what I call a more motocross style bar.
 
At teh Horizons Unlimited meeting they talked about this. Stressed rotating the controls on the handle bars to a natural position. Said to bend your elbow 90 degrees and hold arms to front and look at your wrist position. This is how you want the wrist with controls properly set up. Doesn't always require new handlebars.
 
Just had a visit to a Hand therapist for treatment on my sore left wrist (just inflammation). Mentioned to her that I am changing my motorcycle for one with a more upright riding position. She mentioned trying to avoid wrist pronation (twisting) and allowing the wrist to have a more relaxed resting position on the bars. Has anyone changed their handlebars for ones that are more ergonomic and that are more comfortable on the wrists? I already have a pair of 2" ROX risers on order. Any thoughts?

David.

Ergonomics and a "solution" may end up suiting some people all of the time, and all people some of the time, but...y'know the rest of how that goes. There are many variables for each person on what constitutes comfortable.

The most super comfy bars that I've ever had as far as wrist angle goes, were Clubman drop bars, believe it or not.

drop.jpg

The sweep back on the horizontal was perfect, and the angle down from vertical was perfect, and the bars were able to be rotated in the clamps to *juuuust* the right fore and aft position to meet my hands/wrists at a perfect 90 degree perpendicular.

If I hold my hands out with the palms facing the ground, then rotate them inward so the palms are facing each other, the exact halfway point between those two positions, is my personal ideal.

I have never been able to find that exact bar angle without the drop down. (and they just aren't the same when flipped "rightside up", I've tried that too)

Alas, my old neck and back are far less able to put up with any uncomfy seating angle or leaned over forward position anymore, so that leaves my wrists to deal with the least of the three evils.

I would imagine the closest I could come to that bar shape, except up and back instead of forward and down, might be a cruiser variant (Lord help me if the Vultus has super comfy bars, lol) of some sort, but the whole foot forward and sitting slouched back on your tailbone is hideous to me. (comfort and control-wise)

I knew a guy many years ago that loved a piece of perfectly straight pipe for bars! No bends! Insanity! But it was the cat's meow for him, the mutant.

The Rox risers on my bike have helped with reach and height, doing this alone has made my wrists a fair bit more relaxed and happier, though. :)
 
I find that rotating the bars up a bit helped relieve much of the wrist stress and also reduced fatigue in my shoulders. But this is more of what I am used to riding off road and DS bikes. I have a set of 2" Rox risers I have yet to install. I will keep the bars the same rotation but move them up and back a little. Back in the day we would set or bars by sitting on the bike, closing our eyes and then seeing where I hands fell comfortably. We also set the width by finding the best width to do push ups. I know no one uses that one anymore. Trail and error is your friend.
 
I find that rotating the bars up a bit helped relieve much of the wrist stress and also reduced fatigue in my shoulders. But this is more of what I am used to riding off road and DS bikes. I have a set of 2" Rox risers I have yet to install. I will keep the bars the same rotation but move them up and back a little. Back in the day we would set or bars by sitting on the bike, closing our eyes and then seeing where I hands fell comfortably. We also set the width by finding the best width to do push ups. I know no one uses that one anymore. Trail and error is your friend.
I rotated my bars up just a few degrees yesterday and I could feel the difference in stress on my shoulders . That surprised me because the plan was to rotate them down. I haven't had a chance to check out riding in that position yet but hopefully tonight it won't be raining like it was yesterday.
 
I rotated my bars up just a few degrees yesterday and I could feel the difference in stress on my shoulders . That surprised me because the plan was to rotate them down. I haven't had a chance to check out riding in that position yet but hopefully tonight it won't be raining like it was yesterday.

I mentioned this to you in an early post in another thread. I also did it to my bike awhile ago and it made quite a bit of difference.
 
I'm a big fan of Clubmans flipped up buckhorn style. Won't clear the NC's frunk without an oddball riser though. Too many potholes out here to trust a 4" Rox against twisting. Hints?
 
On my NC so far I added 2" ROX risers and 2x30mm risers (I had to change clutch cable with a CTX one, lengthen brake line and move wires behind fork). This improved things but I still get right shoulder pain.

Here is a wild one ... I have a VT1100T for which I just ordered a set of buckhorn bars. If those are comfy I might just order a similar set for my NC.
Drag Specialties makes a set of 7/8" buckhorn bars: Drag Specialties 7/8" Buckhorn Medium Handlebar | MotoSport. These are chrome but you can find black ones on some other sites (e.g. ebay).
 
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When I got my bike, I found that after riding a while I would get numbness in my hands. It wasn't until I put my winter gloves on that I discovered that the stock handlebars/grips were too small for my hands. I changed to Kuryakyn ISO Grips to increase the palm size. Worked like a charm. If the pain/numbness is just in your hands it could be you need bigger grips like I did.

Techrat
 
I also recommend a larger hand grip depending on the size of your hands. I wrapped mine with bike wrap faux leather.
Another thing to consider is how tight you grip when riding. I'm trying to pay attention and relax my grip. It helps with hands, arms, shoulders, back and neck.

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I'm also thinking of getting one of the wrist paddle throttle helpers which seems like it would help ease the strain.

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My wrist also will get sore -- at times wish I had the option to place a thumb or finger throttle like they have on a snowmobile.
 
I wrap my hand grips with Wilson's Cushion PRO, Comfort, Replacement Grip (for tennis rackets). It increases the diameter of the grip and adds some cushioning. I also use a Cramp Buster (1" size with the Wilson wrap). No problems when doing 500 mile days.

Above 20 mph, motorcycles are controlled with counter steering; you push on the end of the handlebar in the direction you want the bike to go. Short of racing speeds, only a light grip is needed on the bars for control. A tight grip only wears you out.
 
I shared this before but worth repeating perhaps. A trick I learned skiing years ago - point your index finger to relieve tension on your grip. Worked to keep me from gripping the ski poles like death when racing , and works for me on the bike to relax my grip.


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^ I wonder if this was why my left hand was bothering me a bit on my first long trip on my DCT this month.
No clutch handle to rest my 2 fingers on, the way I ride with my 2 fingers on the brake lever.
 
3 times broken wrist, 3 wrist surgeries. I find the most neutral position is a "buckhorn" bar. With the grips 30 degrees out from vertical. Not a sexy adv bike option, but who cares what people think, if you cant ride in comfort otherwise.
 
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