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using CTX cables to install risers

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Hi everyone

I've just ordered a taller set of handlebars for my nc700sa. The bars will be about 2" higher, 2" wider, and 3" further pulled back compared to the stock bars, which is probably beyond what the stock cables and wires can handle - sounds like they will tolerate a 2" rise only. I know from previous experience that the CTX clutch cable is a few inches longer than the S item.

***edit after install*** As per the following posts in this thread, it's probably better to extend your existing wiring harnesses, instead of buying the CTX switch blocks listed here. Save your $$$.

So, I have done up a parts order for the equivalent OEM controls from a 2014 manual CTX700NAE. Total price would be $380 AUD plus $10 shipping to West Australia. I won't order anything until I do a test fit of the new bars, but I figure this is a nicer solution than getting custom control cables made up, and trying to extend the OEM wiring harnesses myself. Parts list and prices in AUD below:

CABLE COMP. A, THROTTLE
17910-MJF-A01 (Honda OEM)
$30.84

CABLE COMP. B, THROTTLE
17920-MJF-A01 (Honda OEM)
$30.84

CABLE COMP., CLUTCH
22870-MJF-A00 (Honda OEM)
$30.28

SWITCH ASSY., ENGINE STOP
35130-MJF-A03 (Honda OEM)
$103.97

SWITCH ASSY., WINKER
35200-MJF-D03 (Honda OEM)
$126.06

HOSE COMP. A, FR. BRAKE
45125-MJF-C11 (Honda OEM)
$59.32

Hopefully this is useful for other people looking at risers. Cheers.
 
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Thanks for posting. It is a worthwhile modification. On a 700X model, I have successfully installed the CTX clutch and throttle cables for use with 80 mm of handlebar rise. My front brake hose is a custom made hose. I also successfully extended the electrical cables by manually splicing in sections of wire. See this thread: https://www.nc700-forum.com/threads/adding-bar-rise-beyond-2.16356/
 
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Hi everyone

I've just ordered a taller set of handlebars for my nc700sa. The bars will be about 2" higher, 2" wider, and 3" further pulled back compared to the stock bars, which is probably beyond what the stock cables and wires can handle - sounds like they will tolerate a 2" rise only. I know from previous experience that the CTX clutch cable is a few inches longer than the S item.

So, I have done up a parts order for the equivalent OEM controls from a 2014 manual CTX700NAE. Total price would be $380 AUD plus $10 shipping to West Australia. I won't order anything until I do a test fit of the new bars, but I figure this is a nicer solution than getting custom control cables made up, and trying to extend the OEM wiring harnesses myself. Parts list and prices in AUD below:

CABLE COMP. A, THROTTLE
17910-MJF-A01 (Honda OEM)
$30.84

CABLE COMP. B, THROTTLE
17920-MJF-A01 (Honda OEM)
$30.84

CABLE COMP., CLUTCH
22870-MJF-A00 (Honda OEM)
$30.28

SWITCH ASSY., ENGINE STOP
35130-MJF-A03 (Honda OEM)
$103.97

SWITCH ASSY., WINKER
35200-MJF-D03 (Honda OEM)
$126.06

HOSE COMP. A, FR. BRAKE
45125-MJF-C11 (Honda OEM)
$59.32

Hopefully this is useful for other people looking at risers. Cheers.
Hi everyone

I've just ordered a taller set of handlebars for my nc700sa. The bars will be about 2" higher, 2" wider, and 3" further pulled back compared to the stock bars, which is probably beyond what the stock cables and wires can handle - sounds like they will tolerate a 2" rise only. I know from previous experience that the CTX clutch cable is a few inches longer than the S item.

So, I have done up a parts order for the equivalent OEM controls from a 2014 manual CTX700NAE. Total price would be $380 AUD plus $10 shipping to West Australia. I won't order anything until I do a test fit of the new bars, but I figure this is a nicer solution than getting custom control cables made up, and trying to extend the OEM wiring harnesses myself. Parts list and prices in AUD below:

CABLE COMP. A, THROTTLE
17910-MJF-A01 (Honda OEM)
$30.84

CABLE COMP. B, THROTTLE
17920-MJF-A01 (Honda OEM)
$30.84

CABLE COMP., CLUTCH
22870-MJF-A00 (Honda OEM)
$30.28

SWITCH ASSY., ENGINE STOP
35130-MJF-A03 (Honda OEM)
$103.97

SWITCH ASSY., WINKER
35200-MJF-D03 (Honda OEM)
$126.06

HOSE COMP. A, FR. BRAKE
45125-MJF-C11 (Honda OEM)
$59.32

Hopefully this is useful for other people looking at risers. Cheers.
Hello, I realize this is an oldish post but I am thinking about doing this mod as well. I see all these parts in the US a little cheaper and available but I want to make sure they actually fit if I buy a taller handlebar. I assume the brake hose and the three cables are long enough to go 4" up. Are the switch harness wires also 4+" longer on the CTX700 than the 750x?

Also what handlebars did you buy? I know I will have to adjust to fit myself but just curious. This looks like a good way to get the bars up where I need them. I have a 40mm riser now and it is still way too much lean for me. My hands are numb in a half hour. Thanks...
 
Hello, I realize this is an oldish post but I am thinking about doing this mod as well. I see all these parts in the US a little cheaper and available but I want to make sure they actually fit if I buy a taller handlebar. I assume the brake hose and the three cables are long enough to go 4" up. Are the switch harness wires also 4+" longer on the CTX700 than the 750x?

Also what handlebars did you buy? I know I will have to adjust to fit myself but just curious. This looks like a good way to get the bars up where I need them. I have a 40mm riser now and it is still way too much lean for me. My hands are numb in a half hour. Thanks...
Sorry for the delay, only just doing the install now. Be careful though, because you have an X and I have an S, the measurements will be different. The S has lower bars than the X, so you will need to make your own measurements.
It's been a long, but not difficult, job. All the plastics need to come off, plus the airbox, and you need to drop the headlight assembly down to access all the cable ends + wiring terminals.
This is how the bike looks at the moment:
IMG_20210811_133619_2.jpg

All the removed parts:
IMG_20210811_133558_1.jpg

The CTX throttle + clutch cables, and the longer brake hose, are a direct bolt up and will fit well.

These are the handlebars: https://www.thirdgear.com.au/high-bend-handlebars-22-mm-satin-black, part number is HIBNDBLK13031. They give +2inch rise, +2inch width, +3inch pullback.
The new handlebars internal diameter is significantly smaller than the OEM bars, so I will need to figure out new bar end weights to suit.
I am also using these risers: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/183572138593

The CTX switch blocks have about 8-9" of extra length compared to the 700SA blocks, however, they need modification to fit. The SA wires terminate with female spades and the CTX terminates with male spades. The wire colours are mostly the same, however the CTX turn signal switch block has 4 extra wires of unknown function. I am in the process of modifying the CTX parts to suit, but I will probably end up cutting + soldering the SA connecters to the CTX switch blocks, so you may as well just extend your existing harness as per 670cc's post instead of cutting up new parts.

CTX (with the rubber shrouds) vs SA wiring connectors:
IMG_20210814_162522_1.jpgIMG_20210814_162459_1.jpg

And for future reference, PLEASE READ POST #6 FOR UPDATED PINOUTS here are the pinouts for the control blocks with wire colours:
IMG_20210814_200158_1.jpg
IMG_20210814_200205_1.jpg

I will post up again when the job is complete. Cheers!
 
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Job complete!


Before:
nc700-handlebars-before.jpg

After:
nc700-handlebars-after.jpg

Important info for others doing this task:
It's much easier and cheaper to simply extend your existing wiring than it is to fart around with the CTX switch blocks. Despite some of the wire colours being the same, the hazard light switch is wired completely differently and needs diodes added to work. I had to rip apart the CTX and SA switch blocks and swap my SA hazard switch into the CTX block, and rebuild the harness, for everything to work properly. It is definitely not plug and play, so there's no real convenience or reliability benefit to buying CTX switch blocks. That said, the CTX throttle, clutch, and brake hose are a direct swap.
Please note the updated pinout for the SA turn signals, the diagram in my last post had one wire coloured wrong.
pinout 1.jpg

I rode around with this setup for a couple of weeks and found that the third gear handlebars were too flat, forcing my wrists into an unnatural angle, and kicking my elbows out, causing a nasty pain between my shoulder blades. I am now running a random ATV handlebar from a local shop. It has similar total rise, but more sweep and bar end height so I can hold my wrists and elbows at a natural angle. I tried very hard to find some ape hangers, pit bike bars, and even BMX bars that could fit into the stock clamps so I wouldn't have to run two sets of risers, but unfortunately there aren't many high-rise options with a 7/8ths bar.

With the raised seat (done at a local motor trimmer) and raised bars, the seat-bar relationship is about the same as stock, but as a tall guy, my knees are no longer at such an oppressive tight angle. Cycle-ergo piccy:
nc700 ergos.png

Overall it's made me happy to keep this bike for much longer. With the ergonomics sorted, the only real issue I could foresee on a long trip would be wind protection. My screen only reaches halfway up my chest now. If I was planning a big trip with high speed motorways, I would probably look at a fork mounted plexifairing which I would remove again for town commuting.

Thanks for reading, and good luck with your own DIY projects
 
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