Tell me about your handlebar swaps

[briderdt]

I'm soon to be swapping out the stock handlebar on the '14 NC700x to a clubman style. I've done this swap on a '06 Ducati Multistrada, and a similar clip-on revision on a '05 SV650s.

For those who have done handlebar swaps on their NCX's, what issues did you come up against?

 

[fleetingyouth]

I dont think very many people have done the swap. I do believe there are notches in the honda bar for the components slot into. So might need to drill holes or grind of the nubs.

Ive thought of swapping to slightly longer ones so interested in any other responses

 

[670cc]

I did the sort of opposite of what you’re doing. I put NC700X bars on my Zero DSR, which had bars too straight and low.

As fleetingyouth mentioned, the stock handlebars have locator holes for the switchgear and throttle grip housing. When you install new bars, you would need to drill holes in the handlebsr for these locator pins. Or, and I wouldn’t recommend it, you could grind or file the pins off the switch gear.

If the new bars are significantly lower than stock, be certain they won’t cotact the frunk lid when turned. If your new handlebar does not include bar end weights, you may experience some vibration feel at the grips.

 

[briderdt]

I did the sort of opposite of what you’re doing. I put NC700X bars on my Zero DSR, which had bars too straight and low.

As fleetingyouth mentioned, the stock handlebars have locator holes for the switchgear and throttle grip housing. When you install new bars, you would need to drill holes in the handlebsr for these locator pins. Or, and I wouldn’t recommend it, you could grind or file the pins off the switch gear.

If the new bars are significantly lower than stock, be certain they won’t cotact the frunk lid when turned. If your new handlebar does not include bar end weights, you may experience some vibration feel at the grips.

I've already done a dry fit (no controls attached) with the bars without the 2" risers, and I'm pretty sure I get enough clearance on the tank for the controls. If needed, I can add the 2" risers back in or add 1" risers instead.

On SV I filed the nubs off, and the headlight/turn signal switch rotated on the bar if I worked at it, but everything else was snug enough to stay in place in all riding situations. I have lighter bar end weights to use, but may transfer over the stock weights (with modifications) if they prove to not damp out enough vibration.

 

[CamaroEric]

I did the opposite. 8" mini-apes and drilled holes in the new bars for the control nubs, that was by far the easiest part of the swap. I did not install any weights and see no vibration issues.

I'd be amazed if a lower bar does not hit the tank without it having significantly less pullback or a large forward offset. Mine only had 1/2" clearance from the control housing to begin with.
If they are offset forward I would be very worries they would hit the windscreen or dash.

 

[briderdt]

Here's what I did to my Duc Multistrada. I'm not installing them in the extreme "low" position that most people would use a clubman bar on a cafe racer type build. The hand position is almost the same height, but it alleviates my tendency to hold the elbows up and tense my arms when the hand position is too flat (for me). Similar to alleviating the wrist angle when using a flat keyboard to avoid carpel-tunnel syndrome.

 

[CamaroEric]

Same reason I went with the apes, lots of drop.
I have no idea how people ride with their wrists twisted inward, it makes every part of my upper body hurt...

 

[briderdt]

Project is on hold! After taking all the controls off the stock bars, starting the fitting process to the clubmans, I found that the throttle tube wouldn't even slip fully onto the new bars, let alone freely rotate for operation.

Stock bars, 22.1mm diameter.
Clubman bars, 22.4mm diameter.

I'm sure that it's mostly the powdercoat being very thick, and I could sand it down. I may try that to see if I can get it down to proper clearance without completely going through (and exposing bare steel to potential corrosion).

So I'm in waiting mode, to (1) see if I can take some thickness off these bars, and/or (2) get a different set that is the proper diameter.