Sub Harness Color coding wires

76Hawke

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Yes, exactly. I heavily taped up the 6-way connector with electrical tape, and then mounted the loose end just to the left of where you have it in the picture by wrapping the reusable zip tie from somewhere to the harness where that white plug is. I was then able to stuff the little solid state relay and all of the connections back into the rubber cup end and that was that. I'm still waiting to receive my amber LEDs for the Barkbusters, and might only have to take off the smallest fairing piece to get a little more access to that setup. Great photo BTW.
Thanks for the clarification, I think that's a really good idea.
What about those electrical connectors you used, I have some on the way right now but don't know if they require a specialized crimper, solder, or are they a push-connect of sorts?
TIA, Matt
 

Lewis

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Thanks for the clarification, I think that's a really good idea.
What about those electrical connectors you used, I have some on the way right now but don't know if they require a specialized crimper, solder, or are they a push-connect of sorts?
TIA, Matt

I'm not an expert in any way, but they come with very small connectors (you'll need the female side of course), and I used small needle nose pliers to fold over each side of the connector to grip the bare wire itself (get the wire sheath to butt up against the end of the connector, not be crimped with it as that might not leave enough electrical connection to be reliable). You should crimp the connectors to the wires first (ignore the connector blocks) and then TRIPLE CHECK which wire will go into which hole in the block. Do this by connecting the empty block to the harness and figuring out which wire should go into which hole - one at a time. The crimped connectors slide into the blocks from the back and click into place (you can hear/feel it). I have no clue how to remove them once they're in, hence why I triple checked everything before doing it wrong. The "spades" have a little barb sticking up at the back, and that side of the "spade" slides into the block's square hole which has an additional cutout in it - sounds confusing, but will make sense once you see it (damn, I should have taken some pictures). I tried to push them in with the block connected to make sure I put the wires in the right holes (can you say paranoia!!) but that wasn't as easy and assuring as simply sliding the connectors in without trying to push them on to the harness's pins also. Once done, the finish looks really professional as the connectors are a bit recessed in the blocks which ensures that no bare wire is visible on the backside of the block.
 

76Hawke

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I'm not an expert in any way, but they come with very small connectors (you'll need the female side of course), and I used small needle nose pliers to fold over each side of the connector to grip the bare wire itself (get the wire sheath to butt up against the end of the connector, not be crimped with it as that might not leave enough electrical connection to be reliable). You should crimp the connectors to the wires first (ignore the connector blocks) and then TRIPLE CHECK which wire will go into which hole in the block. Do this by connecting the empty block to the harness and figuring out which wire should go into which hole - one at a time. The crimped connectors slide into the blocks from the back and click into place (you can hear/feel it). I have no clue how to remove them once they're in, hence why I triple checked everything before doing it wrong. The "spades" have a little barb sticking up at the back, and that side of the "spade" slides into the block's square hole which has an additional cutout in it - sounds confusing, but will make sense once you see it (damn, I should have taken some pictures). I tried to push them in with the block connected to make sure I put the wires in the right holes (can you say paranoia!!) but that wasn't as easy and assuring as simply sliding the connectors in without trying to push them on to the harness's pins also. Once done, the finish looks really professional as the connectors are a bit recessed in the blocks which ensures that no bare wire is visible on the backside of the block.
Thanks again, I appreciate your time, Even without pictures, I have a pretty clear idea of what it is you're saying ... at least I think I do
 

Lewis

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Thanks again, I appreciate your time, Even without pictures, I have a pretty clear idea of what it is you're saying ... at least I think I do

No problem - glad to give back. BTW - as I just put my panels back on the bike last night, a couple of bits of advice. There are multiple different sizes of similar looking screws that Honda seems to use for some stupid reason, and by and large they need to go back in the right places, but you might not realize that until late in the reinstall and then have to undo things to find the right screw to swap with. Also, the largest panel (middle of the 3 removed) needs to go UNDER the frunk's edge so that the final (top) panel will sit flat where it butts up against the frunk (when installing the middle panel, it doesn't naturally align itself under the frunk lip and is easy to overlook).
 

76Hawke

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All the green wires are ground. All the brown wires are 12V+ that's switched on/off with the ignition and share a common source from the accessory relay and fuse (which also powers the OEM heated grips), so total load should be less than the fuse rating of, IIRC, 7 amps.

For all 2018 and later NC750X's (which have LED headlights), the blue wire is a Hi/Lo beam signal wire that's at approx 5V+ when the low beam is on and 0V when Hi beam is on. 2017 and earlier NC's (halogen headlights) also have the blue wire but in this case it's 12V+ when high beam is on and 0V on Lo beam.

If you want to avoid having to cut and splice wires, you can get connectors that match those on the Honda subharness at cycleterminal.com.
Forgive me, I feel like a dolt but here goes… I don't understand how the power moves through the sub harness. Coming from the bike I have a green, a Violet/red, and a red/white wire.
The green (ground) matches with the green on my sub harness, the Violet/Red (switched power) matches with the Brown on my sub harness, the blue on my sub harness doesn't seem to be corresponding with any of the wires coming from the bike, and the red/white from the bike doesn't seem to be corresponding with anything in the sub harness.
I am sure it's difficult to see, but I attached a photo of what I am looking at. I would think that the wires coming from the bike would directly pair with the wires going to the sub harness, but you can see that their positions are not the same. What sort of sorcery is going on here that I don't understand?
I am currently without a battery which further complicates things because I can't test anything… but what confuses me is the fact the wires don't directly correspond at the connectors.
TIA20200404_142948.jpg
 
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Lewis

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Forgive me, I feel like a dolt but here goes… I don't understand how the power moves through the sub harness. Coming from the bike I have a green, a Violet/red, and a red/white wire.
The green (ground) matches with the green on my sub harness, the Violet/Red (switched power) matches with the Brown on my sub harness, the blue on my sub harness doesn't seem to be corresponding with any of the wires coming from the bike, and the red/white from the bike doesn't seem to be corresponding with anything in the sub harness.
I am sure it's difficult to see, but I attached a photo of what I am looking at. I would think that the wires coming from the bike would directly pair with the wires going to the sub harness, but you can see that their positions are the same. What sort of sorcery is going on here that I don't understand?
I am currently without a battery which further complicates things because I can't test anything… but what confuses me is the fact the wires don't directly correspond at the connectors.
TIAView attachment 41894

You would have thought that the wiring colors would have matched up but they don't, however, if you stick with what CapeMan says in his post, you'll be fine.
 

76Hawke

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You would have thought that the wiring colors would have matched up but they don't, however, if you stick with what CapeMan says in his post, you'll be fine.
I'm less concerned about the colors, and more concerned about the physical positions.
I'm sure it's hard to see, but if you're able to zoom in on the photo I took, you'll see that although the green wire from the bike enters the connector in the position directly across from the green wire from the sub harness, the blue wire on the sub harness has no physical match on the other side of the connector on the bike side.
Whereas the violet/red wire is physically mirroring the location of the Brown wire, which I would expect it to do.
I have a wiring diagram that I'm following, so I understand what's coming to the connector, and understand what I'd like to put out, but shouldn't the physical locations of the pins correspond in each connector?
Sorry if I am overlooking something obvious or simple.
 

CapeMan

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Forgive me, I feel like a dolt but here goes… I don't understand how the power moves through the sub harness. Coming from the bike I have a green, a Violet/red, and a red/white wire.
The green (ground) matches with the green on my sub harness, the Violet/Red (switched power) matches with the Brown on my sub harness, the blue on my sub harness doesn't seem to be corresponding with any of the wires coming from the bike, and the red/white from the bike doesn't seem to be corresponding with anything in the sub harness.
I am sure it's difficult to see, but I attached a photo of what I am looking at. I would think that the wires coming from the bike would directly pair with the wires going to the sub harness, but you can see that their positions are the same. What sort of sorcery is going on here that I don't understand?
I am currently without a battery which further complicates things because I can't test anything… but what confuses me is the fact the wires don't directly correspond at the connectors.
TIAView attachment 41894

Hmmm ... is it possible that your bike is not 2016+?

I've got a shop manual for 2016 - 2018 NC's and the wiring diagrams in the manual all show the wires on the bike-side of this plug as:
- green (ground)
- violet/red (switched 12V+)
- blue (Hi/Lo beam signal [12V+on Hi beam for bikes w/ halogen headlights: 2016 & 2017 and 5V+ on Low beam for LED headlights: 2018+])

These wire colors don't match what I'm seeing in your picture (but I don't have any info on wire colors for previous years' models to add any clarity). Plus, it's hard to tell from the pic but it doesn't look like the pin-outs in both plugs match up.

I'm guessing you've got a older-than-2016 bike and a subharness for a 2016+???
 

CapeMan

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I'm less concerned about the colors, and more concerned about the physical positions.
I'm sure it's hard to see, but if you're able to zoom in on the photo I took, you'll see that although the green wire from the bike enters the connector in the position directly across from the green wire from the sub harness, the blue wire on the sub harness has no physical match on the other side of the connector on the bike side.
Whereas the violet/red wire is physically mirroring the location of the Brown wire, which I would expect it to do.
I have a wiring diagram that I'm following, so I understand what's coming to the connector, and understand what I'd like to put out, but shouldn't the physical locations of the pins correspond in each connector?
Sorry if I am overlooking something obvious or simple.

Aha!
 

76Hawke

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Hmmm ... is it possible that your bike is not 2016+?

I've got a shop manual for 2016 - 2018 NC's and the wiring diagrams in the manual all show the wires on the bike-side of this plug as:
- green (ground)
- violet/red (switched 12V+)
- blue (Hi/Lo beam signal [12V+on Hi beam for bikes w/ halogen headlights: 2016 & 2017 and 5V+ on Low beam for LED headlights: 2018+])

These wire colors don't match what I'm seeing in your picture (but I don't have any info on wire colors for previous years' models to add any clarity). Plus, it's hard to tell from the pic but it doesn't look like the pin-outs in both plugs match up.

I'm guessing you've got a older-than-2016 bike and a subharness for a 2016+???
You are right, I'm sorry if I didn't post this earlier. I also apologize if I'm hijacking this thread, but the subject seemed appropriate for what it is that's being discussed here.
I have a 2015 nc 700 X. The wiring diagram shows a red/white, a Violet/red, and green coming to the harness just like it is in my photo.
I also understand that the violet/red wire can turn into the brown wire at my sub harness without issue, it's simply a color change, but because the 2 wires are in corresponding locations at the connectors I expect them to be the same. What I don't understand is why there is a blue wire on the subharness, with no wire in the corresponding location on the bike.
I am using sub harness 08A71 - MGS-D30, It is the part that shows up as compatible with my bike in the catalogs as well as another post that I came across here on the forum.
Again, I appreciate anybody's help
 

CapeMan

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I don't have a wiring diagram for anything earlier than 2016 so anything I say here is just a guess ... but I'll guarantee that it's worth what you've paid for it!!

So what you've got seems to look like this:
- bike's red/violet -> subharness brown (I'm guessing this is switched power and that it goes to all 3 subharness outlet connectors)
- bike's green -> subharness green (I'm guessing this is ground to all three outlet connectors - btw, this appears to be Honda's standard ground wire color?)
- bike's red/white -> subharness side open
- bike side open -> subharness blue (goes to 1 subharness outlet connector, intended for aux lighting?)

So, can you trace the red/white wire back to its origin on the wiring diagram? If it goes back to the Hi Beam halogen bulb filament, it's probably 12V+ on Hi beam.

Alternatively, pick up a cheap voltmeter and see what the red/white wire voltage is when the ignition is on and off and the headlight is Hi and Lo beam. Or maybe just check with a continuity light if you don't have a voltmeter. I'm guessing it'll be 12V+ when Hi beam is on.

While you're at it, you might wanna confirm my guesses on the red/violet and green wires too.

If the red/white is 12V+ on Hi Beam, then you just gotta find a way to connect it to the blue subharness wire and you'll be good to go. I don't remember just how easy it might be to pull one of the pins from the subharness or bike-side plug and re-connect it in the proper pinout spot. If that's too hard, cut and splice might be your best option.

As to why the pins don't match up, I got no clue.

Edit: I overlooked that you didn't have a battery so a voltmeter check would have to wait until you got juice.
 
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Lewis

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The only thing I can offer is that for my 2020 NC750X DCT, I got the sub-harness 08A70-MJL-D30 which looks the same as yours, but you referenced a different part number. Is it possible that you were given the wrong sub-harness? Sorry, I can't check my bike now as I've taped up the connector and put all the panels back on.
 

CapeMan

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The only thing I can offer is that for my 2020 NC750X DCT, I got the sub-harness 08A70-MJL-D30 which looks the same as yours, but you referenced a different part number. Is it possible that you were given the wrong sub-harness? Sorry, I can't check my bike now as I've taped up the connector and put all the panels back on.

Yeah, for my 2018,
  • P/N 08A70-MJL-D30, “Subharness” costs $16 and consists of a connector that plugs into a connector already on the NC and three connectors that break-out the circuits from the on-bike connector. (Alternatively, you could wire up your own subharness.)
  • P/N 08A70-MGS-D30, “Relay Kit”, costs $10 and consists of a relay and 7.5 amp fuse that plug into the fuse panel that's to the left of the NC's battery. This relay kit powers up the subharness when the ignition is turned on so it provides switched power.
Partzilla tells me that that subharness (P/N 08A70-MJL-D30) is good for years 2015+, more or less, But he says his subharness is 08A71 - MGS-D30, for a 2015, ... which mother Honda says is ALSO a subharness. WTF??

Man, I gotta say that the Honda parts end of this business just looks to me like a wilderness where there's all kinda things that can bite ya in the butt! I'm sure there must be some rhyme or reason to it but, man, I can't even follow the tune. I must not be holding my mouth just right. Or something.

And I usedta think that BMW parts were confusing. Like you, Lewis, I'm not gonna go and pull my bike's panels off just to have a look-see so (throws hands up in the air and walks off into the distance ...)
 

76Hawke

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I don't have a wiring diagram for anything earlier than 2016 so anything I say here is just a guess ... but I'll guarantee that it's worth what you've paid for it!!

So what you've got seems to look like this:
- bike's red/violet -> subharness brown (I'm guessing this is switched power and that it goes to all 3 subharness outlet connectors)
- bike's green -> subharness green (I'm guessing this is ground to all three outlet connectors - btw, this appears to be Honda's standard ground wire color?)
- bike's red/white -> subharness side open
- bike side open -> subharness blue (goes to 1 subharness outlet connector, intended for aux lighting?)

So, can you trace the red/white wire back to its origin on the wiring diagram? If it goes back to the Hi Beam halogen bulb filament, it's probably 12V+ on Hi beam.

Alternatively, pick up a cheap voltmeter and see what the red/white wire voltage is when the ignition is on and off and the headlight is Hi and Lo beam. Or maybe just check with a continuity light if you don't have a voltmeter. I'm guessing it'll be 12V+ when Hi beam is on.

While you're at it, you might wanna confirm my guesses on the red/violet and green wires too.

If the red/white is 12V+ on Hi Beam, then you just gotta find a way to connect it to the blue subharness wire and you'll be good to go. I don't remember just how easy it might be to pull one of the pins from the subharness or bike-side plug and re-connect it in the proper pinout spot. If that's too hard, cut and splice might be your best option.

As to why the pins don't match up, I got no clue.

Edit: I overlooked that you didn't have a battery so a voltmeter check would have to wait until you got juice.
I hope I am not boring anyone with this beaten horse, hopefully helpful to someone at some point....
I popped out the plug on the connector for the subharnees that corresponds to the red/white (hi-beam), it is the little black guy in one of the photos. I then popped the blue "pinned" wire from the subharness in an effort to relocate to the red/white wire. In order to do this, I inserted a dental pick into the connector and pushed up on the tab where the red arrow is. The blue wire easily slid out from the rear. Next I inserted another "dental pick", but anything rigid and skinny would work, through the inside of the connector that was currently plugged and simply pushed out the black plug. I swapped the plug into the hole created by the old blue wire, and inserted the "pinned" blue wire into the newly vacant spot which is adjacent to the red/white wire on the bike. You may see in the last photo that the orientation of the pin is important before inserting, but there was a definitive click when it snapped into place.
The weather is breaking, the homestead needs tending, and I am in the final stretch of a major home renovation. As soon as I can, I'll connect a new battery and confirm that nothing blows up.
The first photo is an inset of the "new" connector vs the "old"(while the old was connected to bike) ,you can see how the orientation changed to the bikes outgoing wires.Screenshot_20200406-110448_Gallery.jpg
20200406_103659.jpg
20200406_095342.jpg20200406_095609.jpg20200406_095622.jpg20200406_095853.jpg
 

670cc

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Original wiring diagram NC750X, see attachment.
Readers should be aware that the wiring can change from one model year to the next. We witnessed that in the early years of the NC700X, so my advice is to be certain you consult the schematics for the model year you are working on.
 
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