Sub Harness Color coding wires

Noebiwan

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I have purchased a 2019 NC750X DCT. The dealer needs time before it can be delivered. As i want to prepare the wiring for some accessoires (Heated grip, GPS and 12V output) i have requested him to deliver me the subharness. That will give me some time to solder or crimp my wiring.
As i'm need to Honda i have no idea what the +12V is and what the negative wire is.
The subharness has three connectors. Two of them have 2 pin (Green and Brown wires) and on has 3 pin (Blu, green and brown wire).
Does anyone know what the positive and ground wire is?
By the way i have googled and searched this forum, but i can't seem to get an overall solid aligned answer.....
Thanks for the help

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CapeMan

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I have purchased a 2019 NC750X DCT. The dealer needs time before it can be delivered. As i want to prepare the wiring for some accessoires (Heated grip, GPS and 12V output) i have requested him to deliver me the subharness. That will give me some time to solder or crimp my wiring.
As i'm need to Honda i have no idea what the +12V is and what the negative wire is.
The subharness has three connectors. Two of them have 2 pin (Green and Brown wires) and on has 3 pin (Blu, green and brown wire).
Does anyone know what the positive and ground wire is?
By the way i have googled and searched this forum, but i can't seem to get an overall solid aligned answer.....
Thanks for the help

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All the green wires are ground. All the brown wires are 12V+ that's switched on/off with the ignition and share a common source from the accessory relay and fuse (which also powers the OEM heated grips), so total load should be less than the fuse rating of, IIRC, 7 amps.

For all 2018 and later NC750X's (which have LED headlights), the blue wire is a Hi/Lo beam signal wire that's at approx 5V+ when the low beam is on and 0V when Hi beam is on. 2017 and earlier NC's (halogen headlights) also have the blue wire but in this case it's 12V+ when high beam is on and 0V on Lo beam.

If you want to avoid having to cut and splice wires, you can get connectors that match those on the Honda subharness at cycleterminal.com.
 

Lewis

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I purchased the MTW . 110 SC110-4 (1) and the SC110-3 (2) and a few spare male and female terminals a couple of days ago.
Still waiting to receive them and I'll post an update if they DON'T fit.

I also purchased a programmable timer/relay that CapeMan told me about and after a couple of hours, I think I have it configured to work my auxillary lights when my high-beams are switched on (using the 0volt blue wire to trigger the relay). I'll post an update when it's all done.
 
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Olbuck

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I'm also looking for color wiring diagram. I'm adding a light to my rear Givi bag, and it only has two wires, but I'd like for it to act like a brake light, too.
 

Lewis

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I purchased the MTW . 110 SC110-4 (1) and the SC110-3 (2) and a few spare male and female terminals a couple of days ago.
Still waiting to receive them and I'll post an update if they DON'T fit.

I also purchased a programmable timer/relay that CapeMan told me about and after a couple of hours, I think I have it configured to work my auxillary lights when my high-beams are switched on (using the 0volt blue wire to trigger the relay). I'll post an update when it's all done.

I got the 3 plugs today, and they DO fit!! So, I'll soon be wiring up Koso heated grips (~2.5 amps), ADV Monster Model 60 lights (~3.5 amps using the 3-wire plug) with the dimmer knob and high-beam bypass lead using the programmable relay to send +12 volts when the signal wire drops from +5 volts to +0 volts, and the Barkbusters VPS Amber and White LEDs (est. <1 amp), all to the sub harness, coming in at just under the 7.5 amp fuse limit so that they're all on a switched live circuit. I'll post more info as I get there.
 

Noebiwan

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Thanks all of you for your replies. I have ordered the plugs/connectors too. When done i will reply in his thread (will be around 3rd week of april)
 

DTMWAP

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I got the 3 plugs today, and they DO fit!! So, I'll soon be wiring up Koso heated grips (~2.5 amps), ADV Monster Model 60 lights (~3.5 amps using the 3-wire plug) with the dimmer knob and high-beam bypass lead using the programmable relay to send +12 volts when the signal wire drops from +5 volts to +0 volts, and the Barkbusters VPS Amber and White LEDs (est. <1 amp), all to the sub harness, coming in at just under the 7.5 amp fuse limit so that they're all on a switched live circuit. I'll post more info as I get there.
These Koso heated grips gave me lot of trouble installing them. I think I had the good version to fit the NC but not 100% sure, you might want to check that before unpacking.

Installed on a 2015 Canadian 750 ABS version. At the end everything works fine for me.

Anyway, have look at the throttle plastic sleeve under the right rubber handgrip; mine had raised edges and multiple bumps that were incompatible with the Koso grip inside plastic lining which is somewhat rigid. Moreover, on the left side, I had a very tough time to install the super tight Koso grip over the bare handlebar.

06_Bumps_6981.jpg
 

670cc

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I’ve had to modify the plastic throttle tube to install any heated grips. That includes two grip brands and three different Hondas.
 

Lewis

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I’ve had to modify the plastic throttle tube to install any heated grips. That includes two grip brands and three different Hondas.

Same here. Used a Dremel to grind down all of the lumps and raised ends. Have slid on and off the clutch side ok, but waiting for my Barkbusters before putting everything together.
 

Lewis

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The left grip easy to put on at first, but then got really tough for the latter third. Glad I didn't use super glue otherwise it would have set too soon. I used hairspray. The right side was pretty simple after smoothing out the throttle tube as previously stated. The Koso grips and the aux lighting are now both wired into the switched live sub-harness plugs and work great. Still need to install the Barkbuster white and amber LEDs to the last of those accessory plugs but waiting for them to arrive in a few weeks time.
 

76Hawke

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These Koso heated grips gave me lot of trouble installing them. I think I had the good version to fit the NC but not 100% sure, you might want to check that before unpacking.

Installed on a 2015 Canadian 750 ABS version. At the end everything works fine for me.

Anyway, have look at the throttle plastic sleeve under the right rubber handgrip; mine had raised edges and multiple bumps that were incompatible with the Koso grip inside plastic lining which is somewhat rigid. Moreover, on the left side, I had a very tough time to install the super tight Koso grip over the bare handlebar.

View attachment 41823
Did you smooth out the inner and outside ridges as well, or just the bumps in between? Thanks

I'm waiting on the same grips to arrive, And I was wondering, despite the fact that the grips have an automatic shut off future, you Chose to go to the sub harness instead of the battery?
 

Lewis

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Did you smooth out the inner and outside ridges as well, or just the bumps in between? Thanks

I'm waiting on the same grips to arrive, And I was wondering, despite the fact that the grips have an automatic shut off future, you Chose to go to the sub harness instead of the battery?

The outer ridge definitely. I also did the inner ridge, but you might get away without that - depends on the bar-ends fitment.
Hopefully you gt the shorter 120mm Koso grips?
I also have a Barkbuster VPS handguard setup going on the bike with the bike-specific backbones (BHG-046) which needs the inner bar weights removed which is another PITA to get out and needs to be done before you get the Koso grips on.
Let me know if you want more info as to the installation hassles and guidance thoughts I have before you tackle this - especially if you plan to install the Barkbusters.
 

76Hawke

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The outer ridge definitely. I also did the inner ridge, but you might get away without that - depends on the bar-ends fitment.
Hopefully you gt the shorter 120mm Koso grips?
I also have a Barkbuster VPS handguard setup going on the bike with the bike-specific backbones (BHG-046) which needs the inner bar weights removed which is another PITA to get out and needs to be done before you get the Koso grips on.
Let me know if you want more info as to the installation hassles and guidance thoughts I have before you tackle this - especially if you plan to install the Barkbusters.
I already have the bark busters, also VPS installed. To be honest I never removed the bar weights, I had seen others on the forum that did the same, and I don't really notice any issues. I like the idea of a potentially lower vibration as well.
I removed the grips today as I'm still waiting on the new ones but my bike is torn apart for a bunch of other stuff.
I am sure I will have more questions once I have the groups in my hands, but If you didn't mind giving me any unexpected difficulties or sharing any a-ha moments from your install, That would be awesome, thanks!
 

CapeMan

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Lemme see ... I installed the Honda OEM heated grips, barkbusters (w/ "Storm" guards), and a Kaoko throttle lock.

I used white Gorilla glue, the polyurethane stuff, and it worked just fine. Plenty long enough working time and absolutely no grip slippage since the install.

For the throttle tube, I just bought a replacement from Motion Pro (?) for less than $9. It didn't have any ridges to mess with so the install was easy. FWIW, I think the Honda throttle tubes are all the same.

I went with the Kaoko because I've got a DCT model and there's already a plentiful collection of buttons and knobs on the inside of the throttle grip.

The Kaoko required me to pull the OEM bar-end weights and use their weights, which IIRC, were made to specifically to work with the barkbusters.

That wasn't hard but my carpal tunnel syndrome is happiest when the handlebar vibes are minimal. So I just forced the OEM internal weights back into the handlebars before installing the Kaoko - they'll only go in just so far, but it was far enough!
 

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That's interesting - per the Barbusters installation instructions for the BHG-046 hardware kit, the original external and internal weights are removed and replaced completely by Barkbusters' stuff. I also purchased their extra teardrop end weights which come with longer bolts.
I used hairspray to get the grips on and 1 day later they seem pretty-well locked on.
Plan out the rotational positioning of the grips so that the wires don't get in the way or snag on anything, and also plan where you want the Koso buttons to be so that you don't bump into them reaching for other controls. Wire them to a switched live even though they have a cutoff mechanism as it's not as smart as Oxford's and only turns off once your battery is down to 11.5 volts. I'm using one of the plugs rom the sub-harness for that, one for the Barkbuster LEDs, and the 3-wire plug for the aux lights.
Any other guidance is mostly to do with the internal bar weights removal, but that doesn't seem to apply in your case.
Lastly, as someone else already mention in this forum somewhere, I positioned the loose end of the sub-harness up on the frame near the front-left corner of the frunk where there's a small pass-through section from the battery compartment to under the top-most side panel - the first and only one that'll need to be removed if necessary to get to the harness again.
Also, one more thing, on my DCT ABS model, forget trying to make 2" Roxx Risers work, stick with simple 1" risers as even that's a stretch to make fit without concerns for the brake line.
 

Lewis

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Lemme see ... I installed the Honda OEM heated grips, barkbusters (w/ "Storm" guards), and a Kaoko throttle lock.

I used white Gorilla glue, the polyurethane stuff, and it worked just fine. Plenty long enough working time and absolutely no grip slippage since the install.

For the throttle tube, I just bought a replacement from Motion Pro (?) for less than $9. It didn't have any ridges to mess with so the install was easy. FWIW, I think the Honda throttle tubes are all the same.

I went with the Kaoko because I've got a DCT model and there's already a plentiful collection of buttons and knobs on the inside of the throttle grip.

The Kaoko required me to pull the OEM bar-end weights and use their weights, which IIRC, were made to specifically to work with the barkbusters.

That wasn't hard but my carpal tunnel syndrome is happiest when the handlebar vibes are minimal. So I just forced the OEM internal weights back into the handlebars before installing the Kaoko - they'll only go in just so far, but it was far enough!

As a San Francisco Bay Area commuter, a throttle lock isn't much use to me, but I do have a Cramp Buster to help from time to time. They work pretty well for the few bucks they cost.
 

CapeMan

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That's interesting - per the Barbusters installation instructions for the BHG-046 hardware kit, the original external and internal weights are removed and replaced completely by Barkbusters' stuff.

Umm, yeah, it's been a a year or so now since I did the work so my memory's getting hazier. I do recall having to pull the OEM bar end weights and the internal weights. The replacement bar end weights might have been from Barkbuster or from Kaoko - I really don't remember. (& maybe it was the Kaoko that was made to fit w/ Barkbusters?? It's just the pits to get old!)

But what I do remember is that I could stuff the OEM internal weights back into the handlebar - they would only go just so far but that was far enough to install the replacement bar end weights.
 

76Hawke

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That's interesting - per the Barbusters installation instructions for the BHG-046 hardware kit, the original external and internal weights are removed and replaced completely by Barkbusters' stuff. I also purchased their extra teardrop end weights which come with longer bolts.
I used hairspray to get the grips on and 1 day later they seem pretty-well locked on.
Plan out the rotational positioning of the grips so that the wires don't get in the way or snag on anything, and also plan where you want the Koso buttons to be so that you don't bump into them reaching for other controls. Wire them to a switched live even though they have a cutoff mechanism as it's not as smart as Oxford's and only turns off once your battery is down to 11.5 volts. I'm using one of the plugs rom the sub-harness for that, one for the Barkbuster LEDs, and the 3-wire plug for the aux lights.
Any other guidance is mostly to do with the internal bar weights removal, but that doesn't seem to apply in your case.
Lastly, as someone else already mention in this forum somewhere, I positioned the loose end of the sub-harness up on the frame near the front-left corner of the frunk where there's a small pass-through section from the battery compartment to under the top-most side panel - the first and only one that'll need to be removed if necessary to get to the harness again.
Also, one more thing, on my DCT ABS model, forget trying to make 2" Roxx Risers work, stick with simple 1" risers as even that's a stretch to make fit without concerns for the brake line.
"Lastly, as someone else already mention in this forum somewhere, I positioned the loose end of the sub-harness up on the frame near the front-left corner of the frunk where there's a small pass-through section from the battery compartment to under the top-most side panel - the first and only one that'll need to be removed if necessary to get to the harness again."
20200327_174450.jpg
I didn't find that thread, but is this what you're talking about?
 

76Hawke

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I purchased the MTW . 110 SC110-4 (1) and the SC110-3 (2) and a few spare male and female terminals a couple of days ago.
Still waiting to receive them and I'll post an update if they DON'T fit.

I also purchased a programmable timer/relay that CapeMan told me about and after a couple of hours, I think I have it configured to work my auxillary lights when my high-beams are switched on (using the 0volt blue wire to trigger the relay). I'll post an update when it's all done.
When you are making up those new terminals, does it require a specialized crimping tool in order to put the terminal around the wire, or do you Solder the wire in there?
I appreciate your help
 

Lewis

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"Lastly, as someone else already mention in this forum somewhere, I positioned the loose end of the sub-harness up on the frame near the front-left corner of the frunk where there's a small pass-through section from the battery compartment to under the top-most side panel - the first and only one that'll need to be removed if necessary to get to the harness again."
View attachment 41859
I didn't find that thread, but is this what you're talking about?

Yes, exactly. I heavily taped up the 6-way connector with electrical tape, and then mounted the loose end just to the left of where you have it in the picture by wrapping the reusable zip tie from somewhere to the harness where that white plug is. I was then able to stuff the little solid state relay and all of the connections back into the rubber cup end and that was that. I'm still waiting to receive my amber LEDs for the Barkbusters, and might only have to take off the smallest fairing piece to get a little more access to that setup. Great photo BTW.
 
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