Shinko 705's en route!
- Thread starter BrinkHouse
- Start date
Jguarfn28
Member
I'm strictly a road rider and I rarely expect that much travel. That is actually the stock light bar from Honda, I just can't afford lights to put on it.
I have been riding them for a week and a half.
First: Rolling mass is much greater than the stock Metzgers and it doesn't stop as quickly as it used to. I'm gonna need new brake pads sooner.
Second: These tires stick to the pavement SO MUCH BETTER.
Third: Changing direction is easier with these on the NCX and you are an inch or so higher.
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glesage
New Member
Makes sense, hopefully if you ever have to do an abrupt stop on the highway the fender won't explode in front of you if it hits that bar
Thanks for the info!
Thanks for the info!
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I just ordered a Shinko 705 160/60 R17 rear tire from Amazon at $85.99 shipped. I'm keeping the Michelin PR3 up front as it still looks pretty good after about 8500 miles. I guess I'll have to remove the beaded seat cover to make up for the slightly taller rear tire. Fall is in the air here with the leaves just starting to change color at the higher elevations so I won't need to keep my butt cool much longer.
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I just put a set of 705's on my bike the other day. The front was a pain to install. I think I could change out two PR4'S on the front to one 705. The rear was a piece of cake. I hope I can live with these tires after running the PR's. I can run two rear 705's and one front, for about the same as one set of PR4'S.
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I had purchased a 120/70 Shinko front a couple of days after I bought the 150/70 rear and after looking closely at the front I decided to swap out the front Michelin for the Shinko as well. The seat is maybe a quarter inch taller now with the beaded seat cover on. The tires are noticeably noisier than the PR3's but nowhere near as wiggly in the dirt as the Michelin's were. I won't say anything about how they handle as they only have about fifteen miles on them, 5 of those miles in dirt so far.
Yamezz
Member
It's amazing the variation in tyre life.
The one on the left did 9,400km; the one on the right 13,400km.
The one on the left did 9,400km; the one on the right 13,400km.
DCTFAN
Member
Good variety
Had good experience with 705's on the NCX,
so I fitted 705's for my trip West on the AT.
3500+miles and they still look new.
Both are TT with tubes.
However, they are not stable for spirited riding on twisties on heavier bikes.
While carving corners, I suspect the contact patch is at limit with the extra weight and torque.
I was overtaking several riders coming down Neals Gap
and the rear slid out enough that I was in the adjacent lane,
cutting off one of the group that rode. Fortunately,
he was an experienced rider and did not panic while
my rear was crossing his front just inches apart.
Had good experience with 705's on the NCX,
so I fitted 705's for my trip West on the AT.
3500+miles and they still look new.
Both are TT with tubes.
However, they are not stable for spirited riding on twisties on heavier bikes.
While carving corners, I suspect the contact patch is at limit with the extra weight and torque.
I was overtaking several riders coming down Neals Gap
and the rear slid out enough that I was in the adjacent lane,
cutting off one of the group that rode. Fortunately,
he was an experienced rider and did not panic while
my rear was crossing his front just inches apart.
I wonder if the "not for spirited riding on twisties on heavier bikes" is the difference between TT Bias vs the TL Radial.
I put the 705's on at the beginning of a trip to Colorado and have around 3,300 miles on them now. (I'm guessing the tire has 50% left)
Useally when I put a new set on, I think, these feel great!
Not with the 705's. I was thinking that I made a big mistake and hoped I warmed up to them quickly.
Well I did, and by the time I was in the tight curves on the side of the mountain, I was impressed with the traction.
They're not PR good, but they didn't hold me back either.
The other 3 riders in my group all have 20+ years experience and when the curves come up, they ride at their own pace and don't mind testing the bikes capabilities.
After I'm done with two rear tires, I'll do the math and see if they're a keeper.
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DCTFAN
Member
I agree, IMO, the reason why a lot of the AT owners want to swap the tires to tubeless is
so they can rely on radials with better traction among other things.
As for me, since I found their limitation, all I have to remember is to take the
twisties within my riding capabilities and don't rely on the bike to save me.
So far, she's been good to me; very forgiving.
showkey
Super Mods
After 7500 miles .....time for a new 705 on the rear ( still a few miles left but it is just easier to do it now)
My 705 is at 6100 and change now. It might make it to 7000. Not a bad tire for the price.
I just put a new set of Michelins on the Jeep Cherokee, so the NCX is next.
I just put a new set of Michelins on the Jeep Cherokee, so the NCX is next.
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Nofear2trek
Elite Member
Those look like they still have another 2,500 miles left on them!
Ray
2wheels4fun
Member
Wish mine looked as good as the right one. That is what mine looked like around 4000 miles. Current have 5300 miles. Trying to get to 5700 miles to match the worst mileage for my continental motion.
showkey
Super Mods
Obviously the right one is the worn tire........if I really want to get it to the wear bars, I would estimate 1000 miles left. But worn down that far ..........traction is far from good on gravel/dirt forest roads. The other compromises with a very worn tire, is its more likely to pick up a nail or screw.
For comparison the center tread depth on the worn tire is 2.0-2.5 ( depending on where you measure the feathered block) -and the the center tread depth is 9.0 mm on the new.
It's the off season here, with 15" of snow on the ground......so tire swap, valve check, coolant change, air filter is the special of the day.
For comparison the center tread depth on the worn tire is 2.0-2.5 ( depending on where you measure the feathered block) -and the the center tread depth is 9.0 mm on the new.
It's the off season here, with 15" of snow on the ground......so tire swap, valve check, coolant change, air filter is the special of the day.
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Old Can Ride
Active Member
I have a pair of the Shinko's on my NC7. I don't know if I will ever wear out the front tire. By far the longest any front tire has ever lasted me on any bike. The rear was average wear, about 7500 miles.
Nofear2trek
Elite Member
This is my last rear Shinko that I finally had to replace last month in Kentucky.
It looked pretty much like your worn tire before I left Oregon.
I thought I could wear it down some more and would be having to replace it a thousand miles south in southern California, but it was still OK. I headed east 2k to Kentucky, keeping an eye on it at every fill up. Amazing me, it was still looking OK while crossing Texas.
I finally ordered a new Shinko to meet me in Kentucky to put on when I got there. It had a bit more than ten thousand miles before replacement. And those miles were all pulling the Moto-Mule. (I never worried about being stranded with a flat along the way because of my being able to swap wheels with the Moto-Mule anytime I needed to.)
Ray
It looked pretty much like your worn tire before I left Oregon.
I thought I could wear it down some more and would be having to replace it a thousand miles south in southern California, but it was still OK. I headed east 2k to Kentucky, keeping an eye on it at every fill up. Amazing me, it was still looking OK while crossing Texas.
I finally ordered a new Shinko to meet me in Kentucky to put on when I got there. It had a bit more than ten thousand miles before replacement. And those miles were all pulling the Moto-Mule. (I never worried about being stranded with a flat along the way because of my being able to swap wheels with the Moto-Mule anytime I needed to.)
Ray
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2wheels4fun
Member
So what air pressure is everybody running to get long life out of this tire?
I read through the thread and seeing a lot of 705 rears installed, but since 160/60 is not available, which size rear is the better choice? I'm never one to think wider is necessarily better (170/60), but I'm not a fan of the adding height, either (150/70).
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Nofear2trek
Elite Member
Always, the deciding factor for me is, which is on sale the most is the better choice! (Usually the 150/70.)
Ray
