RSV 2016 shock insertion

[kaz]

The one I got -
APRILIA RSV4 RR RF 2016 REAR SUSPENSION SHOCK ABSORBER SACHS LIKE NEW 900 MILES | eBay

In its new abode -


The guy at the garage removed the side plastics and the exhaust, and fiddled with taking out the original shock. When the 2nd mechanic came to help him out, they eventually pulled it out, and putting the Sachs was actually the shortest part of the whole ordeal. They didn't use any extra washers, though I'm not qualified to say if it means they weren't needed.

The 2nd mechanic used to own a Tuono so he tweaked the shock a bit, other than that I didn't mod anything.

Questions:

- They yellow coating has a scratch all the way to the metal. Should I cover it in something like gorilla tape, so corrosion doesn't sneak inside the spring?

- 4$ shock tube on the boat from ebay -
270mm Rear Protector Shock Absorber Cover Skin For Motorcycle Pit Dirt Bike | eBay
Could it act as a moisture retainer? Is it better to just leave the shock be and let it enjoy the atmosphere? How about a makeshift leather cover?

- They used an impact driver ("On medium setting"), so I'm not sure the bolts are 44 Nm. Would you go on and verify on your own with a torque wrench?

 

[DTMWAP]

I would put some oil or grease on the scratch and let the dirt catch it.

For sure I would check with a torque wrench; I'm allergic to impact drivers...

 

[DirtFlier]

Just curious but is the eye-to-eye length of the Aprilia shock identical to the NC shock?

 

[kaz]

Didn't realize they have different characteristics, thought the Tuono was just the naked version of the RSV. Maybe the front forks happen to fit the NC as well?

I think grease will eventually get removed from the scratch, kinda worried about rust getting inside the spring. Should I melt some silicone, or even the surrounding yellow plastic so it covers the scratched area?

 

[kaz]

I went to a suspension guy to tune the RSV shock. This is what I gathered, probably mostly mundane, but perhaps some will be helpful.

There are 3 adjusters on the shock -
A flat screwdriver slot on the gas can - for compression damping
A little black round knob on the bottom, turned by hand - for rebound damping
two big threaded sprocket looking thingies (sprocket nuts? not sure how to call them) sitting above the spring - require a special hook type tool to move around. Those are for putting pressure on the spring, the top sprocket secures the bottom one when you're done.

The pressure on the spring sets the initial weight that will coerce any movement on behalf of the shock. The spring also has linear resistance, which indicates how much it does move around when the weight is above the threshold set by the SN's.

The point of pre-compressing the spring was moot to me - what's the difference what puts pressure on the spring - all me and no SN's, or half SN's and half me etc., if it hits the same compressed size once I'm on? I assumed the spring travel was the limiting factor, but gathered that the whole shock contraption is supposed to max out before the spring, so you can pre-compress the spring all the available way, without affecting the real shock travel. All it affects is the static sag and the rider sag - how much the shock goes down from it's own weight, and from added rider weight.

I'm at 65 kg / 145 lbs. At first he thought the spring might not be stiff enough, but after cranking it all the way down and playing with the dampings, he took it for a ride (I assume he weighs around 165-170), and was quite pleased (and surprised) with the handling.

Honestly I don't feel much of a difference myself, but neither do I when the tire pressure is off. What I wanted mostly was to get less spine smackers on the freeway, more advanced riders will likely find more use to it.

The upgrade does not seem to be hurtful on the bike or the pocket, the missing part for me is whether a shock tube (A piece of cordura with zip ties) is helpful or detrimental to the shock's health.


* One last note - I think, but not sure, that the round lower connecting part of the shock, where it connects to the NC, may be threaded as well and can be turned around a bit, so the end to end distance can be modded. Again, not sure this is true as mine fit just as it came (or the mechs who put it on turned it and I didn't notice)