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Rounded off oil drain plug bolt, anyone know where I can get new one?

RubyRider

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Did an oil change for the first time today, however it would seem the previous owner(s) tried to do an oil change but rounded off the bolt and stopped. I got it off with an extractor and back on with vice grips. Looking for a new one so I don't have to deal with it again. Where can I get one?
 
I over-torqued a bolt and ordered a replacement from this place:

Thank you! I wasn't about to pay $10 shipping for a bolt. However with the part number I was able to find this
 
I cringe when I read stories like this.

Unless you have a calibrated wrist, which few people do (apparently the previous owner did not), I strongly suggest getting a torque wrench. Properly used, it will ensure the bolt is properly tightenened. Most people will probably tend to overtighten fasteners and cause damage. The bolt is one thing, but destroying the threads in an aluminum engine case, oil pan, etc, is big trouble on a whole ‘nother level.

I use a torque wrench and follow published torque specs for nearly all fasteners on motorcycle work.

The snapping off of the NC’s fragile cylinder head cover bolts is an especially good indicator of whether people follow torque specs or not.
 
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One must be sure to understand the Honda manual torque values for bolt sizes, otherwise a shiny new torque wrench set to the wrong value does more harm than good. :) I probably won’t make that mistake again.
 
I cringe when I read stories like this.

Unless you have a calibrated wrist, which few people do (apparently the previous owner did not), I strongly suggest getting a torque wrench. Properly used, it will ensure the bolt is properly tightenened. Most people will probably tend to overtighten fasteners and cause damage. The bolt is one thing, but destroying the threads in an aluminum engine case, oil pan, etc, is big trouble on a whole ‘nother level.

I use a torque wrench and follow published torque specs for nearly all fasteners on motorcycle work.

The snapping off of the NC’s fragile cylinder head cover bolts is an especially good indicator of whether people follow torque specs or not.
I have one, but with the rounded bolt I was unable to get good connection. This is my primary means of transpo at the moment or I would have waited.
 
And don’t forget to use a crush washer. A very inexpensive step that can help prevent pulling out the threads.
 
One must be sure to understand the Honda manual torque values for bolt sizes, otherwise a shiny new torque wrench set to the wrong value does more harm than good. :) I probably won’t make that mistake again.
I always double check on my torque wrench settings the metric and imperial values specified in the manual before proceeding. This way, no mistake between pound foot (lbf-ft) and pound inch (lbf-in).
 
Torque wrench for an oil drain plug? No way. Nope, never, no.

Cylinder head bolts and similar sure. But oil drain plug? :rolleyes:
Apparently even some dealer service personel feel the same way. See this thread: https://www.nc700-forum.com/threads/dealer-and-oil-pan-plug-emoji2959-emoji2959-emoji2959.15848/

Back in my (much) younger years, yours truly stripped out the drain plug oil pan threads on a 1977 Suzuki. Since then I am a firm believer in using torque wrenches for most all motorcycle fasteners. Same with automotive fasteners. For example, the drain plug torque spec for a Ford V10 6.8L gas engine is only about 10 lb-ft. I’ll bet many people would put three times that much torque on the plug, if given a chance. But, to each their own.
 
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Torque wrench for an oil drain plug? No way. Nope, never, no.
I used to always use a torque wrench for drain plugs when I was new to working on things myself. After a while my arm got calibrated to feel for how tight they need to be, and so now I mostly don't bother anymore. But beware if you get a lot of oil (or put anti-seize) on your threads, or grab a longer wrench, or longer ratchet handle, that it will be super easy to accidentally over-tighten.

The art of getting drain plugs just tight enough not to leak, and mot any tighter, takes some practice and finesse. It's always looser than you think, in my experience.

Certainly for anything related to axles, forks, suspension, brakes, final drive, or engine components I do use a calibrated torque wrench, double check my measurements, and mark with torque seal.

I started marking after I was out for a ride, and the rear brake on my buddy's Ninja came apart. He forgot to tighten it back on after removing the rear wheel. Thankfully it didnt jam in the wheel, or we would have had a bad day.
 
Torque wrench for an oil drain plug? No way. Nope, never, no.

Cylinder head bolts and similar sure. But oil drain plug? :rolleyes:
The dealer broke the cylinder head cover bolt when putting the cover back on, those little things need so little torque on them that a torque wrench is a necessity. only 7 ft-lbs., which is easy to over-tighten with a 1/4 inch. Also be certain the cover is lined up. So yea, every time.

As for the drain plug, I understand that the bolt itself is robust but stripping the drain hole is very possible. Using a crush washer and a 3/8 ratchet can keep you from over-tightening so it is not as critical since the spec is about 22 ft-lbs. Tightening it down to anywhere from 12 to 30 ft. lbs is probably fine but for durability sake I use a torque wrench because over time any bolt will stretch and weaken.

iow - I agree with you somewhat Sully.
 
Apparently even some dealer service personel feel the same way. See this thread: https://www.nc700-forum.com/threads/dealer-and-oil-pan-plug-emoji2959-emoji2959-emoji2959.15848/

Back in my (much) younger years, yours truly stripped out the drain plug oil pan threads on a 1977 Suzuki. Since then I am a firm believer in using torque wrenches for most all motorcycle fasteners. Same with automotive fasteners. For example, the drain plug torque spec for a Ford V10 6.8L gas engine is only about 10 lb-ft. I’ll bet many people would put three times that much torque on the plug, if given a chance. But, to each their own.
Good grief! Drain plugs need to be tight enough to make a seal, and tight enough to not vibrate out. That's it. The space between that, and stripping threads out of an aluminum pan has to be a factor of four or greater. As to the crush washer, I am curious why Honda hasn't gone the way of integral Orings in the bolt, but whatever. Using a new crush washer is probably the best thing you can do to avoid having to use too much torque.
 
“Tight enough”...........is that a technical term ?

The Honda crush washer goes back 50 years. The reason is inexpensive, effective, serviceable and provides a deformable surface to conform with the plug and case.

Tighten enough........there in lies the problem, judgement.
Every critical fastener on a Honda is double checked and marked ( white or yellow paint) as torqued at the factory.
Every fastener has a published torque value. It’s all about consistent clamping force. Tight enough is now value and NOT consistent.
The common forum post........”I broke the 6mm bolt, “now what " or striped the threads”.

That fact there several posts on the drain plug with head rounded off .........the user error of the wrong tool, wrong technique or over or under torque is real. The world is full of variety of skill levels when it comes to mechanic.
 
I was surprised how little torque motorcycle bolts needed (I started wrenching on Volvo inline sixes), so I use a torque wrench on most parts that I can't loctite.
 
“Tight enough”...........is that a technical term ?

The Honda crush washer goes back 50 years. The reason is inexpensive, effective, serviceable and provides a deformable surface to conform with the plug and case.

Tighten enough........there in lies the problem, judgement.
Every critical fastener on a Honda is double checked and marked ( white or yellow paint) as torqued at the factory.
Every fastener has a published torque value. It’s all about consistent clamping force. Tight enough is now value and NOT consistent.
The common forum post........”I broke the 6mm bolt, “now what " or striped the threads”.

That fact there several posts on the drain plug with head rounded off .........the user error of the wrong tool, wrong technique or over or under torque is real. The world is full of variety of skill levels when it comes to mechanic.
Tight enough is technical enough for me, yes. At least when it comes to oil drain plugs, which is what this thread is all about.
I'm very familiar with the crush washer concept; being a metallurgist I could even explain in gory detail why it should never be re-used. I just happen to be of the opinion that an integral O-ring is a better way to go here.
As to the rest, I have never stripped an oil drain plug, nor have I ever had one fall out, in ~35 years of a variety of mechanical applications, so I'm going to stand by my original position that a torque wrench is absolutely not necessary for me to use when installing an oil drain plug. If you feel the need to use a torque wrench go for it. But yeah, tight enough is tight enough on that one.
 
Have to agree with Sully here. Changed oil in all my bikes for 40+ years, never used a torque wrench and never had a problem result. Tight enough has worked for me.
 
I agree with sully.
I also reuse the - crush washer - OH THE HORROR!!!!!!!!!!
And never had any bolt problems or leaks!
Oh yea that goes for all the cars I've had as well.
I have never let anyone else change oil in any vehicle I've owned.
 
Tight enough is technical enough for me, yes. At least when it comes to oil drain plugs, which is what this thread is all about.
I'm very familiar with the crush washer concept; being a metallurgist I could even explain in gory detail why it should never be re-used. I just happen to be of the opinion that an integral O-ring is a better way to go here.
As to the rest, I have never stripped an oil drain plug, nor have I ever had one fall out, in ~35 years of a variety of mechanical applications, so I'm going to stand by my original position that a torque wrench is absolutely not necessary for me to use when installing an oil drain plug. If you feel the need to use a torque wrench go for it. But yeah, tight enough is tight enough on that one.
More to this point : I put the rounded bolt back on with some pliers. It't not torqued at all. I have watched it religiously. No oil leak. I have ridden over 300 miles since then. I think im good. I do have another one on order but I likely won't be replacing it till my next oil change.
 
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