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Replacement Battery

I plan to post if I have issues but here in Arkansas we won't see many days below a high of 40 in the peak of the winter. Last year we rarely dropped below 25F at night.
 
DaveAA said:
Ah ok. FWIW, I pulled the stator myself, found the short, and took it to an electrical place to have them rewind and solder it. I can't imagine what a motorcycle shop, or a dealer would have charged. yikes
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A decade ago, had stator replaced on my wife's Shadow 1100, at a Honda Dealer, parts and labor were over $300.
 
I donÂ’t know much about battery charging but the trickle charger I bought from the dealer is a Delltran. I have hardly ridden the bike over the last year or so due to illness and a sports related knee injury. I keep it on the trickle charger all the time though. Yesterday, I took it for a short 5 mile ride and it wouldnÂ’t start after I turned it off in a parking lot. it would only make a clicking sound with the check engine and abs lights staying on. I jump started it using a smart battery charger that has a jump start feature and rode it home. I turned it off at home and it restarted fine. ItÂ’s the original battery and it is almost 4 years old. I am going to buy a new one as it sounds like my cheap charger probably damaged the battery.
 
That's pretty much how mine went out on me. It was 4 years old and left me stranded at the gas station.

AAA will not jumpstart a motorcycle. A portable jump starter is something that you might want to consider carrying in your bag of tricks with you regularly. I am also considering it for myself.

FYI, DCT Models require more demand from the battery.
 
I use a Battery Minder, which is a smart charger, more like a "wall-wart" type of unit. It was not spendy, and I alternate it on both bikes, ON A TIMER. Never runs more than 1.5 hours, and it seems to keep the batteries nice and topped up. Both bikes have Chrome Batteries in them, which are very reasonable ( read:cheap) and I am on the 4th ( knock on wood here) year on one of them.

The Battery Minder incorporates an "anti-sulphation" mode, which seems to help keep the batteries healthy. I got 7 years out of my last battery, which was a Scorpion.

YMMV
 
Klap said:
I use a Battery Minder, which is a smart charger, more like a "wall-wart" type of unit. It was not spendy, and I alternate it on both bikes, ON A TIMER. Never runs more than 1.5 hours, and it seems to keep the batteries nice and topped up. Both bikes have Chrome Batteries in them, which are very reasonable ( read:cheap) and I am on the 4th ( knock on wood here) year on one of them.

The Battery Minder incorporates an "anti-sulphation" mode, which seems to help keep the batteries healthy. I got 7 years out of my last battery, which was a Scorpion.

YMMV
Click to expand...

Just curious, but if it’s a smart charger, what is the reason for limiting the run time to 1.5 hours?
 
670cc said:
Just curious, but if it’s a smart charger, what is the reason for limiting the run time to 1.5 hours?
Click to expand...

I’m a belt and suspenders kinda guy, plus, why run it all the time, which no doubt wastes kw hours, when from observation, I know it only usually requires a few minutes twice a day to top it up?
The green LED flashes at full charge, and rarely goes to solid green ( needs a charge) between it’s scheduled charges.
I have had several trickle type chargers, but this one is by far the best, and longest lasting. I gave up on Battery Tenders long ago after finding out how weak their customer service was.




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Does anyone know about, or use, a Sears DieHard "Fully Automatic Battery Charger/Maintainer"? (Model 200.71219) It charges at 2A with 12v (and 4A with 6v, perhaps useful for my antique car). My Gold Wing battery can take a 2A rate but I don't know if the 2014 original NC battery will.

Guess I'm lucky... I have never put a charger on the NC's battery, and it has started instantly after sitting outside for several months over the winter, with temperatures down to +5F or so.
 
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Klap said:
I’m a belt and suspenders kinda guy, plus, why run it all the time, which no doubt wastes kw hours, when from observation, I know it only usually requires a few minutes twice a day to top it up?
The green LED flashes at full charge, and rarely goes to solid green ( needs a charge) between it’s scheduled charges.
I have had several trickle type chargers, but this one is by far the best, and longest lasting. I gave up on Battery Tenders long ago after finding out how weak their customer service was.

I have that same charger, and would not use it on my NCX. That charger is designed for wet cell car batteries and I would not trust it to cut-off consistently on a small sealed AGM battery. You really need something like an Optimate3. Battery Tender makes a 6/12 volt charger you could use on your bike or car. Not as sophisticated as the Optimate but a lot cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/Trickle-Auto..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=YXQT0CVCR8G1BTSM6BX6
Click to expand...
 
Hondafan said:
Klap said:
I’m a belt and suspenders kinda guy, plus, why run it all the time, which no doubt wastes kw hours, when from observation, I know it only usually requires a few minutes twice a day to top it up?
The green LED flashes at full charge, and rarely goes to solid green ( needs a charge) between it’s scheduled charges.
I have had several trickle type chargers, but this one is by far the best, and longest lasting. I gave up on Battery Tenders long ago after finding out how weak their customer service was.

I have that same charger, and would not use it on my NCX. That charger is designed for wet cell car batteries and I would not trust it to cut-off consistently on a small sealed AGM battery. You really need something like an Optimate3. Battery Tender makes a 6/12 volt charger you could use on your bike or car. Not as sophisticated as the Optimate but a lot cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/Trickle-Auto..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=YXQT0CVCR8G1BTSM6BX6
Click to expand...

While it may not be specific to AGM batteries, I have used it on them for over 10 years, with great results. My last AGM battery, a Scorpion, lasted 7+ years, and the battery in my Helix is coming up on 4 years old.
I’d be willing to guess that it works just fine with AGM batteries with those results.
I’d NEVER, EVER buy another Deltran/Battery Tender product after dealing with their customer service folks . I tried to get warranty service on a 10 month old unit, and they told me there was a 35$ “handling fee” to process my replacement, plus I’d have to send the old unit to them at MY expense. To be clear, that was 9$ more than I paid for the original unit. Their warranty is a joke!!

Never again!





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Click to expand...
 
Just paid $85 for a new battery for my 2015 NC700 XD. I have owned the bike for six months. I ride all year, and think last week freeze deteriorated my batter. I didn't want to be stuck somewhere. Since I ride daily, and have replaced other batteries at 4+ years in warmer climates, I was having intermitten issues. I decided to replace my battery. The battery was testing yellow under load.
 
Just ordered the Mighty Max YTZ14s from Amazon for $45 delivered. My 2015 DCT had the dreaded "click click" today when I tried to fire it up to move it to get to Christmas decorations. Not too disappointed - it's the original battery, and I bought the bike new in late August 2015 so I assume the battery could have already been a year or more old. It's on a tender most of the time and it gets ridden frequently. I'm going to check the date code (assuming I can find it and interpret it) once I remove it. For $45 I have no complaints.
 
Still on my first battery on my 2012 NC700x I bought new in 2012 and over 48,000 miles. I keep it on a trickle charger when not use for a few days or if it gets below 32F overnight.
 
GregC said:
Just ordered the Mighty Max YTZ14s from Amazon for $45 delivered. My 2015 DCT had the dreaded "click click" today when I tried to fire it up to move it to get to Christmas decorations. Not too disappointed - it's the original battery, and I bought the bike new in late August 2015 so I assume the battery could have already been a year or more old. It's on a tender most of the time and it gets ridden frequently. I'm going to check the date code (assuming I can find it and interpret it) once I remove it. For $45 I have no complaints.
Click to expand...

Does anyone know how to tell the when a battery was made? There are some hieroglyphics on the battery but they are unintelligible and google has not helped.


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Got the new battery in. Old one has been on the charger for several days and measured just over 11v no load. Charged the new battery on the bench and installed it and it fired the bike right up.

On a side note - the guy who designed the battery terminals on these batteries should be beaten with a live horseshoe crab. By the time you have a couple add’l power lines added getting the terminals attached is just a ridiculously hard job. I use a power hub for almost everything, but still have a couple direct to battery connections. It really could be much, much easier.

Oh, and a couple more inches on the positive cable by Honda would make this a lot easier too. [emoji16]


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