Removing front chain sprocket cover question.

[ziggie]

I want to get a look at the front chain sprocket,check for wear,clean the chain lube out.my question is the manual book says to replace the gearshift pinch bolt with a new one after I remove it.do you folks do this or just use the same one? I don't see a reason to replace it.

 

[silverhound]

Re-use should be fine. Many times certain fasteners are suggested to be replaced for liability reasons only. That said, it has been my experience that pinch bolts do tend to weaken with repeated removal/replacement so be extra careful when re-installing not to over-torque and snap off the head.

 

[L.B.S.]

I want to get a look at the front chain sprocket,check for wear,clean the chain lube out.my question is the manual book says to replace the gearshift pinch bolt with a new one after I remove it.do you folks do this or just use the same one? I don't see a reason to replace it.

I always hate being the guy that never does what the book says you should lol, but I haven't. It never would cross my mind to replace that bolt!

I think you are supposed to replace the front caliper/fork bolts and brake rotor bolts when those are removed too, but *shrug* I don't do that either...

I have no idea why these things seem to be so much more prevalent with bikes nowadays.

The Caliper bolts had pre-applied thread locking compound I think, on them, but not positive. Surely neither those or the pinch bolt are the "Torque to Yield" kind of bolts, are they?

If it's just a matter of each screw or bolt having OEM micro encapsulated thread locking compound (aka fancy way of saying pre-applied thread locker) like my BMW was covered in, I'm still confused, because other fastener re/re tasks in the Manual just tell you to apply a suitable thread locker before installing bolts back, and do not specify any need to use new ones every time.

Maybe HBP can chime in if he spies this thread.

 

[ziggie]

Thanks for the answers,I will use the same and try not to rip the head off.its probably a 5 dollar bolt anyway lol.I really need to get all the lube out of that area and look at sprocket.thanks again.

 

[Old Can Ride]

A lot of torque is placed on that bolt. Ever down shifted? I follow the engineer suggestion in the book. It is just the cost of bolt!

 

[bamamate]

You don't have to totally remove the cover to get access to inspect and clean the sprocket. Just remove the 3 cover bolts and slide it out as far as it will go without removing the gearshift. If you aren't happy with that amount of access then remove the gearshift.

 

[ziggie]

Thanks bamamate,I will try that first.

 

[Lou Wambsganss]

The bolt is basically there to keep the shift lever from walking off the shaft, which puts it under a shear load. The splines resist the torque of shifting by trying to lever the clamp open. This is the only tension the bolt sees, and it has significant mechanical advantage. I've had multiple Hondas as old as 1967 and have never replaced a shift lever bolt or had one work loose. I tighten the bolt just enough to eliminate any play between the splines on the lever and shaft.

As a side note, I modified my sprocket cover so that I don't have to remove the lever.





The sprocket is still completely covered and the sprocket cage is still intact. No dirt or grease thrown from the chain escapes.

 

[derbyboy]

Lou Wambsganss your absolutely right about little to no tension on the pinch bolt. The only forces on it are the resistance to letting the shifter spring open and become loose on the splines. All the forces of shifting are on the splines.
Manufacturers today are so scared of lawyers and the money suckers they represent that I'm surprised they tell you to replace the gas cap every time you fill the tank.