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Recommended Coolant?

Thanks for the resurrection Ripp! I was checking my coolant bottle the other day and noticed it was a bit below the low level line. I had thought about searching on here for the appropriate thread and "Poof" here it i! Thank you my friend!! :{)
 
I just bought a jug of Liquid Performance Street coolant, $18 on STG's site. Its approved for track use, but good specs too. Unless you live where you bike in in temps below -30° lol.

https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/liquid-performance-street-bike-coolant-antifreeze-64-oz/

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I just bought a jug of Liquid Performance Street coolant, $18 on STG's site. Its approved for track use, but good specs too. Unless you live where you bike in in temps below -30° lol.

On the specs it ..........say phosphate free. Does not say silicate and borate free. Honda specs says must be silicate free.

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The Liquid Performance stuff is propylene glycol. That's perfectly fine, and personally I prefer it for its _much_ lower toxicity. However, Amsoil's is the only bigger brand-name propylene glycol coolant I happen to know of that's phosphate- and silicate-free.
AMSOIL Low Toxicity Antifreeze and Engine Coolant

Not exactly cheap, but meets spec.
 
On the specs it ..........say phosphate free. Does not say silicate and borate free. Honda specs says must be silicate free.

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Keyword - recommended. Kinda like how GN4 oil is recommended but everybody and their brother are out there running Amsoil, Rotella, or whatever else oil that might fit the bill.

If it said "required coolant", I'd be more concerned. Can't run traditional ethyl glycol antifreeze on track in any group above Novice. Must run approved poly glycol coolant like Liquid Performance, Engine Ice, 7th Gear, Evans, etc. That's my reason for purchasing. Either way, it seems to be good stuff based on what little I read about it.

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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Silicate and borate free coolant has been a Honda “requirement” in all their engines for 40 years. As with most Japanese manufactures the water pump seals do not like silicates.

Quote from other forums:
1.Silicates are infused into coolants to ‘scour’ the passages of your radiator and keep it clean. They also erode any o-rings that may be in your cooling system (the Honda Gold Wing was notorious for silicate-related coolant leaks. You won’t suffer overheating by running silicate-free coolant, but your o-rings will love you.
2.The silicate and nitrite free extended life chemistry helps protect all cooling system metals from corrosion including aluminum.

Coolant chart two pages on chemistry and application

Link to chart
 
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Just to throw gas on the fire I just read the jug of A2 I've been using for years has phosphate [emoji28]
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I don't think it has to be phosphate free by Honda guidelines... In my service manual it simply says "High quality ethylene glycol antifreeze containing silicate-free corrosion inhibitors", but I agree with no borate also based on some reading. Is it different for post-2012 manuals?

Honda Type 2 automotive is a great deal compared to the half gallon "race" products. Even shows up in MC specific articles in places (Ranking The Best Motorcycle Coolant Products).

Understand the environmental concern of improper disposal etc, but propylene glycol is only considered less toxic that ethylene glycol, and a non-toxic substance in well defined applications of limited exposure. WHO recommends a maximum intake of 11.4 mg of propylene glycol per pound of body weight (25 mg/kg) per day. That's about 1/100 of a cup (cup of water is 225,000 mg) of 50/50 mix propyl coolant for a 200lb person. Found that it is commonly used as the main ingredient in the "e-liquid" used in electronic cigarettes. Wonder if it has something to do with the illnesses.
I bought a gallon of concentrate and put half in an empty peak coolant bottle I already had, added water from a 5 gallon jug so I had two gallons of A2 coolant for my NC, I used fresh coolant every time I checked/adjusted the valves and I even emptied the radiator twice due to my temp sensor going out, topped off my car even and I just had to buy another bottle around the beginning of the year, so that one bottle of concentrate (around $20) was good for 85,000 miles and that was me not being conservative, I have properly disposed of any old coolant and have not had any problems with my cooling system other then the temp sensor going bad (right after my air temp sensor[emoji848]) no leaks and no buildup of any kind so I'd say it works well
 
Might be a bit of a hijack, but I've got to adjust my valves in the next few weeks, going to pull the radiator, empty all coolant, replace with that Liquid Performance stuff.

If I pull the lower hose off the radiator on the left side of bike and let the radiator drain, and what's in that hose drain, is that about as empty as you can get the coolant system? Or is there something else needed to get it all out? I'm not sure how much would be left inside the block/water pump?

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There is a coolant drain plug to get the coolant that is not in the radiator or reservoir. I have modified my maintenance schedule so that I replace the coolant with my valve check. The amount of time works out for me with the mileage that I do.
 
Got some Engine Ice ordered (phosphate and silicate free, and track approved). Will replace the other coolant that contains silicates, and also plan to do the valves when changing it too, before the upcoming track season.

Didn't figure the silicate thing was that big of a deal until I started pouring it in and you could see it all floating around and shining like glass in the coolant. I can see how it could be harmful, admittedly wrong in that respect earlier in this thread.
 
At least you caught it BEFORE damage occurred! .
I'm sure it would take a while for the damage to occur, I knew about it going in, just put it in it anyways until I could get some better. I had to have track approved coolant before my last track day and already had that Liquid Performance on hand, so I used it with the intent of changing it soon. Got my Engine Ice in now, just a matter of fitting time in to change it and do the valves. School just started back and I just started a new job within my workplace, so a lot going on right now. Got a couple months at least before track days come back around.
 
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